The Denim Thread: Questions & Answers, Pics & Fits

[Ishmael]

Based on another thread about a specific pair of denim that steered and veered toward the world of denim at large, there seems to be a need for a "Denim Thread" here.

So, let's see what you got, what you're happy with, and what you're not. Even more important, let's see some pics and fits. Feel free to bring all your denim related "q's" and hopefully someone will have an "a" to match.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I will repost mine here then


I have some that got caught on film when taking pics of jackets.....

Tapered 634s
Im gonna take new photos of these tomorrow, becasue they have been worn more and even washed once since that pic!

Nudie SlimJim DryJapan

 

[Ishmael]

Pure Blue Japan xx-003
Have had these for about 10 months. Really nice slubby denim. Sized down because I thought they would stretch, but they didn't! Only now, after about 50 good wears, are they starting to give. No washes yet.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Looking good all over!

 

[Ishmael]

Thanks! And you too! Those Nudies got some crazy fades.

 

[schitzo]

Ishmael this was very nicely teed up I was right about you being the man for the job!

A question. I have a pal who lives in Tokyo and another who's moving out there in March. Hence a visit in 2013 is very much on the cards (if only to buy some good jeans ). Can anyone advise on where to buy nice denim in Tokyo please? Those two (my pals) won't have a clue

Thanks
Schitz

 

[Ishmael]

Well, if you give me a shout out when you're here, I'd be happy to show you around or point you in the right direction. For now, there are probably some other guides on the web, but I've found this to be a good one.

http://denimhunters.com/lifestyle/travel/tokyo

In Tokyo, there are really two spots: Ueno and the Harajuku/Shibuya/Omotesando triangle. Ueno is concentrated. The triangle is scattered boutiques.

The denim spot in Ueno is located along and below the Yamanote tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations. This is an old black market area from after the war that still remains a bit seedy and is also a mecca for ame-kaji (American casual). There you will find both Hinoya and Ueno-Amerika-ya. Both two of the better shops around for a wide selection.

In the Harajuku/Shibuya/Omotesando triangle you will find a number of boutiques run by denim makers. Pure Blue Japan, Warehouse, Studio D'Artisan, Real McCoys (i.e. Joe McCoys), Freewheelers. I'm sure there are others, but you would need to know where you want to go.

Hope that helps!

 

[schitzo]

Well, if you give me a shout out when you're here, I'd be happy to show you around or point you in the right direction. !

Ishmael you're a gentleman, and yes that is all good info. Nice one

 

[OneEyeMan]

OK all, here come the questions.
I've been wearing jeans all my life, either Wranglers, Levi's, or lately Lees.
I only wear the basic straight cuts.
They look good with just about everything, wear like iron, and are worry free.
Just wondering what all these other Japanese brands bring to the table other than added cost?
Also, what the heck is selvedge?
Comparison pix would be great.
Thanks,
Lenny

 

[Fanch]

Here is my brown steerhide Highwayman with Bills' Khakis 14 oz. jeans.

 

[schitzo]

Fanch, IMO everything about that jeans highwayman hat combo is correct, I hope you still have the jacket

 

[Cooperson]

Great pics guys. I've always like the thought of heavy selvedge denim, but the stories of how uncomfortable they are and how it takes ages to stretch them out etc. has stopped me taking the plunge. Question: just how comfortable are they? I'd hate to spend big money and not enjoy wearing them.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

My IronHeart is very comfortable. It took a while, but now I dont even think about them being thick. They are warm tho, so in the summer its not my favourite pair.

 

[Fanch]

Fanch, IMO everything about that jeans highwayman hat combo is correct, I hope you still have the jacket

Hi Schitz; I still have the Highwayman, although the sleeves could be an inch or so longer. I think that when I was a kid many, many moons ago that I recall all jeans being made of very thick denim that shrunk after each wash and took forever to soften up. These Bill's Khakis jeans are the best that I have ever owned. The pockets are made with the same 8.5 oz. cotton used on his Original Twill Khakis. Most all of Bill's stuff is good, and a few of his items are great, like his 10.2 oz. Bullard Field Pant and 14 oz. 5 Pocket Jeans. Probably not worthwhile though for guys across the Pond to buy with shipping and import duties. However, if you ever visit the Colonies, be sure to check out Bill's Khakis.

 

[Ishmael]

Just to be clear. The Pure Blue Japan denim is only like 14oz, far from the heavyweight stuff. It is still very substantial and tough, and very slubby. But it's not a heavyweight.
I've never owned the Iron Heart, but I've tried them on several times. Even from the start, there not as difficult to wear as some of the heavy stuff (Samurai for example). And, as Griff and many other note, they tend to soften up and wear nicely.

 

[majormajor]

OK all, here come the questions.
I've been wearing jeans all my life, either Wranglers, Levi's, or lately Lees.
I only wear the basic straight cuts.

Definitely moving in the right direction, OneEyeMan. Lee (IMHO) are THE archetypal jeans. The 1930-1950 cuts available from Japan, via various sources (Aero in the UK) are the best straight leg cuts.

Also, what the heck is selvedge?

Selvedge refers to a denim garment that has been cut utilising the finished edge of the piece of denim cloth - so that no overstitching is required. Many vintage jeans (and jackets) will exhibit this.

In jeans, this will be done on the outer leg seam, so that a turnup on the bottom will display this to the world!

Here is an example:

 

[majormajor]

Great pics guys. I've always like the thought of heavy selvedge denim, but the stories of how uncomfortable they are and how it takes ages to stretch them out etc. has stopped me taking the plunge. Question: just how comfortable are they? I'd hate to spend big money and not enjoy wearing them.

Hi Cooperson

I was up at Aero's place a few weeks ago.

They are ceasing to sell the really heavyweight stuff (to concentrate, I understand, on vintage Lee & Levi's), and so are selling off their remaining stocks.

Holly showed me a pair, and I have to say, as someone who has worn American jeans for over 45 years, they did seem, in their raw state, faintly ridiculous.

"Normal" jeans from, say, Lee Vintage, are around 13oz, and will take a few wears to break in.

The 21/23oz stuff that the "heavyweight" things are made of looks like it will make a pretty good fight back!

We actually stood a pair up, and they stayed there.

The logic is, apparently, that you wear them for six months without washing them, and then the fading will be amazing when you do ultimately wash them.

But is that REALLY worth looking like a dick in cardboard trousers for six months?? And let's not even mention body odour.....

Just a personal view

 

[Ishmael]

Hmmm? I hear what you're saying majormajor, but, from what I've seen, the Iron Heart stuff really isn't all that stiff. But to each their own.......

Going back to "selvedge". I'll just say that it doesn't make it through the translation software very welll ! LOL!

"21oz cell bitch denim straight 634S"

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/vari/item/ir-pt-634s/

 

[majormajor]

Hmmm? I hear what you're saying majormajor, but, from what I've seen, the Iron Heart stuff really isn't all that stiff. But to each their own.......

If I'd just gone from internet images and descriptions, I would agree with you, and would probably eventually have bought a pair of Iron Hearts.

But having handled them, I really can't be arsed (a UK expression) with wearing jeans that really do look and feel like cardboard.

I honestly feel that folks would laugh when I walked into a room in those things!

The whole ethic of denim is the worn/faded/workaday image of the stuff. Cardboard jeans are the complete antithesis of that look. "Oh, yes, I know I look like a prat now, but just wait 12 months, then I'll look cool again!"......

As I say, just my personal view

The other thing is what seems like extremely low stock levels of these things. It is like they just produced one batch to test the market, and it hasn't really worked, so they are quickly drying up in the regular sizes, and are not restocking them. The unsanforized 634s are now pretty much unobtainable.

 

[schitzo]

But is that REALLY worth looking like a dick in cardboard trousers for six months?? And let's not even mention body odour.....

:eusa_clap haha - Major you are definitely not gonna get splinters in your arse form sitting on the fence. Fair play. Personally, I don't think you'll look like a dick wearing them, more a case of you'll feel like a dick, that is until they start to wear in at least and I suppose the $64,000,000 question is how long it takes for that to happen