The covert coat...

[geo]

That Pakeman short coat is up on the site and it's on sale:

http://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.asp?cat=206

 

[Micawber]

I have a Cordings covert coat which I enjoy wearing in the autumn & spring. The coat comes minus a velvet collar but for a modest charge Cordings will fit whatever colour you desire, mine is dark brown.

Edited to reduce size of photo

 

[Happy Stroller]

What actually is a Covert Coat? Is it made of a special fabric called Covert Cloth; and if so, what's that - wool or cotton? Or is it longer than a lounge suit jacket? Why the word covert? Is it true such a coat should not be worn on the streets?

 

[The Wingnut]

Sharp coat, but those armholes are HUGE...

 

[Micawber]

The following is a brief description from the Country ClubUK site that resembles what I have read elsewhere:

It is extraordinary how a garment with such humble origins as the covert coat could have developed into the epitome of style for gentlemen, but so it has. The coat started life as a grooms’ overcoat, swiftly moving on to his employer, and from there to the smartest of racecourse enclosures and the City. Those who wear this coat generally cut a dash.

A distinctive feature of the covert coat is the rows of stitching, or ‘tramlines’, around the hem of the skirt and the sleeves. Traditionally this was so it could be cut to fit the wearer with a pair of shears—just below the appropriate row of stitching, avoiding fraying and tailors’ bills.

The coat is still made from traditional proofed wool worsted, which is very hard wearing—so much so that these coats were worn out hunting in all weathers. This use, of course, gave the garment its name.

Traditionally the coat had large internal pockets at thigh level to carry a packed lunch. In most modern interpretations these pockets have been dispensed with, but our Club coats still have them. Other time honoured features include a three-button fly fastening, flapped waist pockets, ticket pocket, and satin lining. The collars are trimmed with velvet.

I don't think I can recall seeing one worn mounted although some followers wear them at meets.

 

[Happy Stroller]

Thanks, Micawber, for the helpful description of the covet coat.

I love the idea of putting a lunch box in the inside thigh pocket. Wonderful way to visit a park with a lunch box and a bottle of mineral water inside the coat.

What do you mean by wearing one mounted?

Is the covert coat worn as a jacket or over a jacket?

 

[FreddieVonRost]

Covert Coat

Covert is a fox hunting term. One draws, [searches], the coverts, [hidden undergrowth, bushes, fox holes etc.], for little vulpine friends. Some of the original hunting coats were made from covert cloth.

A mounted fox hunt is a fox hunt conducted on horse back. Ergo, mounted means horse riding.

A meet is the FH term to go out hunting on a given day and time.

Edited to add: covert is of course pronounced as cover.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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'Tis is a dark day in the Fedora Lounge if no one here got this coat: http://cgi.ebay.com/1295-Ralph-Laur...ryZ57988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem






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[Sefton]

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'Tis is a dark day in the Fedora Lounge if no one here got this coat: http://cgi.ebay.com/1295-Ralph-Laur...ryZ57988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem






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T'wasn't me. Although a good deal, still a bit more than I can spend right now. Also I just got a lovely cashmere overcoat which I'll pick up from the dry cleaners tomorrow. I just hope we don't have a fall heat wave!

 

[moustache]

Splendid book!!

Here's another shot from the cover of Berhard Roetzel's book.

There is also a shot of the coat in black on the back cover that is worn quite well with a homburg.

Cheers!

Dan

I LOVEthis book.Very well choreographed and delightful photographs!

JD

 

[Will]

What actually is a Covert Coat? Is it made of a special fabric called Covert Cloth; and if so, what's that - wool or cotton? Or is it longer than a lounge suit jacket? Why the word covert? Is it true such a coat should not be worn on the streets?

Covert cloth is a (usually fawn colored) twill. J&J Minnis's version is 18 ounces. That's topcoat weight rather than overcoating.

 

[tonyvan]

I've had and worn my Covert coat for over 10 years now. I bought it at Stanley Ley Legal Outfitters in Holborn, from whom I bought my last 10 or so suits - a very highly recommended tailors.
Regardless of their countryside/riding origin, in the City they are now almost ubiquitous in the Insurance industry, around Leadenhall Street and the Lloyds Building area. In that industry, they are sometimes referred to as 'Bookies Coats' (presumably the insurance game is not unlike the bookmaker's game!)

Mine is a standard off the peg version, with non-slanted pockets and a brown velvet collar.
I don't think I ever saw a single black velvet collar around there.

You could always tell if someone had a bespoke one, because they would have collar variations - a purple or green velvet would be the most popular.

Some had no velvet, and there were also length variations (again, only when bespoke), and even some double-breasted ones - very much tailor-made. One or two were made of a more green-ish fabric than the standard mid-brown.

There was an inverted snobbery around such coats, whereby a slightly tattered one would convey a certain old-school elegance, and when mine gained a repaired shoulder, it was better regarded than when it was new.

I find its simple, square-cut lines are unbeatable for wearing over a suit, but only with narrow-leg pants. Wider-leg pants don't work with it at all.

Since moving to Vancouver, I've never seen another, but it is always very well received whenever I wear it.

 

[Edward]

I've had and worn my Covert coat for over 10 years now. I bought it at Stanley Ley Legal Outfitters in Holborn, from whom I bought my last 10 or so suits - a very highly recommended tailors.
Regardless of their countryside/riding origin, in the City they are now almost ubiquitous in the Insurance industry, around Leadenhall Street and the Lloyds Building area. In that industry, they are sometimes referred to as 'Bookies Coats' (presumably the insurance game is not unlike the bookmaker's game!)

Mine is a standard off the peg version, with non-slanted pockets and a brown velvet collar.
I don't think I ever saw a single black velvet collar around there.

You could always tell if someone had a bespoke one, because they would have collar variations - a purple or green velvet would be the most popular.

Some had no velvet, and there were also length variations (again, only when bespoke), and even some double-breasted ones - very much tailor-made. One or two were made of a more green-ish fabric than the standard mid-brown.

There was an inverted snobbery around such coats, whereby a slightly tattered one would convey a certain old-school elegance, and when mine gained a repaired shoulder, it was better regarded than when it was new.

I find its simple, square-cut lines are unbeatable for wearing over a suit, but only with narrow-leg pants. Wider-leg pants don't work with it at all.

Since moving to Vancouver, I've never seen another, but it is always very well received whenever I wear it.

Stanley Ley is still there, and still selling them.... I may drop in when the spring sale hits and see whether i can't find one for myself.... They do a great range of stuff in there. I just wish I could find somewhere that sold suits off the peg with a Golden Age style higher wasitband: the thirties / forties look seems to be coming back (I'm seeing a lot more peaked lapels with two button jackets at the minute), but the trousers are all a decidedly recent cut with the lower, modern-style waist.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

(I'm seeing a lot more peaked lapels with two button jackets at the minute)

I fear this is about it. The width and overall shape of the lapels is very different from the 30s and/or 40s, as are most of the other features. Though more recent jackets might be less roomy, even if rather snug in general than waisted in particular.

To get back to the topic, covert coats in 60s length are amazingly ubiquitous in certain parts of London('s tube system).

 

[tonyvan]

I must get back to Ley's one day...Apart from the fact it's now 5000 miles away.

On peaked lapels on SB jackets...
I understand their raffishness, but I can't do it myself.

If you take a lapel to its logical extension, it should fasten under the chin with a small Nehru-style collar. Hence a DB jacket needs peaked lapels to stretch from one side to the other. If you ever did fasten a peaked-lapel SB jacket to the top, it just wouldn't work.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Oh, right. I forgot it's all about function.

 

[Martinis at 8]

No. I don't like this coat. Not to offend, but it reminds me of what a doorman would wear at a nice hotel or at an exclusive condominium - Waldorf Astoria, etc. I'm sure there are others here who think the same, but just have not mentioned it.

Let's be frank about fashion. Okay?

M8

 

[Micawber]

No. I don't like this coat. Not to offend, but it reminds me of what a doorman would wear at nice hotel or at an exclusive condominium - Waldorf Astoria, etc. I'm sure there are others here who think the same, but just have not mentioned it.

Let's be frank about fashion. Okay?

M8

Hardly a fashion coat.

 

[Feraud]

Hardly a fashion coat.

Not at all. More one of style which is blatantly missed by some.

 

[Martinis at 8]

Hardly a fashion coat.

Okay, I can play the semantics game too. Not a coat of any style IMO other than for a doorman. Can I make my opinion any clearer?


M8
Play nice. Feraud.