That Pakeman short coat is up on the site and it's on sale:
http://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.asp?cat=206
http://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.asp?cat=206
It is extraordinary how a garment with such humble origins as the covert coat could have developed into the epitome of style for gentlemen, but so it has. The coat started life as a grooms’ overcoat, swiftly moving on to his employer, and from there to the smartest of racecourse enclosures and the City. Those who wear this coat generally cut a dash.
A distinctive feature of the covert coat is the rows of stitching, or ‘tramlines’, around the hem of the skirt and the sleeves. Traditionally this was so it could be cut to fit the wearer with a pair of shears—just below the appropriate row of stitching, avoiding fraying and tailors’ bills.
The coat is still made from traditional proofed wool worsted, which is very hard wearing—so much so that these coats were worn out hunting in all weathers. This use, of course, gave the garment its name.
Traditionally the coat had large internal pockets at thigh level to carry a packed lunch. In most modern interpretations these pockets have been dispensed with, but our Club coats still have them. Other time honoured features include a three-button fly fastening, flapped waist pockets, ticket pocket, and satin lining. The collars are trimmed with velvet.
T'wasn't me. Although a good deal, still a bit more than I can spend right now. Also I just got a lovely cashmere overcoat which I'll pick up from the dry cleaners tomorrow. I just hope we don't have a fall heat wave!Marc Chevalier said:.
'Tis is a dark day in the Fedora Lounge if no one here got this coat: http://cgi.ebay.com/1295-Ralph-Laur...ryZ57988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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DanielJones said:Here's another shot from the cover of Berhard Roetzel's book.
There is also a shot of the coat in black on the back cover that is worn quite well with a homburg.
Cheers!
Dan
Happy Stroller said:What actually is a Covert Coat? Is it made of a special fabric called Covert Cloth; and if so, what's that - wool or cotton? Or is it longer than a lounge suit jacket? Why the word covert? Is it true such a coat should not be worn on the streets?
tonyvan said:I've had and worn my Covert coat for over 10 years now. I bought it at Stanley Ley Legal Outfitters in Holborn, from whom I bought my last 10 or so suits - a very highly recommended tailors.
Regardless of their countryside/riding origin, in the City they are now almost ubiquitous in the Insurance industry, around Leadenhall Street and the Lloyds Building area. In that industry, they are sometimes referred to as 'Bookies Coats' (presumably the insurance game is not unlike the bookmaker's game!)
Mine is a standard off the peg version, with non-slanted pockets and a brown velvet collar.
I don't think I ever saw a single black velvet collar around there.
You could always tell if someone had a bespoke one, because they would have collar variations - a purple or green velvet would be the most popular.
Some had no velvet, and there were also length variations (again, only when bespoke), and even some double-breasted ones - very much tailor-made. One or two were made of a more green-ish fabric than the standard mid-brown.
There was an inverted snobbery around such coats, whereby a slightly tattered one would convey a certain old-school elegance, and when mine gained a repaired shoulder, it was better regarded than when it was new.
I find its simple, square-cut lines are unbeatable for wearing over a suit, but only with narrow-leg pants. Wider-leg pants don't work with it at all.
Since moving to Vancouver, I've never seen another, but it is always very well received whenever I wear it.
Edward said:(I'm seeing a lot more peaked lapels with two button jackets at the minute)
Martinis at 8 said:No. I don't like this coat. Not to offend, but it reminds me of what a doorman would wear at nice hotel or at an exclusive condominium - Waldorf Astoria, etc. I'm sure there are others here who think the same, but just have not mentioned it.
Let's be frank about fashion. Okay?
M8
Not at all. More one of style which is blatantly missed by some.Micawber said:Hardly a fashion coat.
Micawber said:Hardly a fashion coat.