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The covert coat...

DanielJones

I'll Lock Up
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4,042
Location
On the move again...
Has anybody here had a covert coat? What are your thoughts on them? I hear they are a lighter version of the Chesterfield, made for riding in the country. It sounds like it would make a good year round coat.
aa_ovco_1_lg.jpg


Cheers!

Dan
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
The Question Is.....................

scotrace said:
I am certain that my next overcoat/topcoat must have a breast pocket.

Will you put a pocket square in the coat's breast pocket?
 

Close Shave

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
New Zealand
Covert Coats

They are a classic part of any (slim!) gentleman's wardrobe. The black velvet collars are a left-over from the French Revolution and were a way of expressing sympathy for the fate of the Aristocracy in France.

If you would like one, there is a very fine gentleman's outfitter in Cirencester, England called Pakeman, Catto & Carter (see www.pakeman.co.uk) which will supply you with all manner of clothing from Morning Suit to Smoking Jacket, and accoutrements from collar boxes to bone-handled toothbrush!
 
An absololute classic

Check out the movie "SNATCH" with Bratt Pit & Vinnie Jones for some great shots of this style of jacket.

I have always thought of getting me one, but never got round to it.
It is an absolute must-have when wearing a suit.
Aslo combines nicely with a Hombug or Fedora (The Untouchables)

Thx for the UK order link!

Dex
 

The Mad Hatter

A-List Customer
Messages
321
The two foremost outfitters for covert coats are Cordings, who invented them, and New & Lingwood, the Jermyn St. firm that serves Old Etonians.

I have a New & Lingwood covert coat, which I love. It is a bit more elegant but a bit less forceful than my Burberry trench coat, but the uses for the two coats overlap. Sometimes it is difficult to decide which to wear.

I live in Southeastern Ohio, where winters tend to be mild but nevertheless definitely exist. I have comfortably worn my covert coat in temperatures ranging from 40 degress to 15 degrees Farenheit; but the lower temperatures have involved extensive car travel and only brief outdoors exposure. If it should get down near zero, I would probably have to think of another coat.

But I strongly recommend these coats.
 

DanielJones

I'll Lock Up
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4,042
Location
On the move again...
Here's another shot from the cover of Berhard Roetzel's book.
8642315.jpg


There is also a shot of the coat in black on the back cover that is worn quite well with a homburg.

Cheers!

Dan
 

geo

Registered User
Messages
384
Location
Canada
I have a covert coat from Pakeman, which I just bought this summer to wear this fall. I got the one without the velvet collar, I find it more versatile. I debated for a long time before getting the Pakeman coat, the other choices being New&Lingwood, Cordings, Crombie, (all more expensive), and I saw that Charles Tyrwhitt offer a more affordable one, which looks very good:

http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/department.aspx?DepGrpCode=MEN&DepCode=MOVC&level1=Men&level2=mensouterwear&level3=Wool%20Coats
 

Alan Eardley

One Too Many
Messages
1,500
Location
Midlands, UK
Covert coat

I don't think it's been mentioned that some of the best covert coats have a leather (rather than velvet) collar. Worth looking out for.

Alan
 

silhouette53

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Birmingham, England
Book Recommendation

DanielJones said:
Here's another shot from the cover of Berhard Roetzel's book.
8642315.jpg


There is also a shot of the coat in black on the back cover that is worn quite well with a homburg.

Cheers!

Dan


Yes indeed - an excellent book for reference and, although there are no pics of the covert coat in it, may I recommend this book by Alan Flusser

bookcov.jpg
 

DanielJones

I'll Lock Up
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4,042
Location
On the move again...
You may and you have. A good book as well.

Here is what looks to be a victorian pattern for a Covert Coat or Blazer. Note the high arm holes.
81.jpg


I suppose the do-it-yourselfers will enjoy this one.

Cheers!

Dan
 

The Mad Hatter

A-List Customer
Messages
321
Charles Tyrwitt has a covert coat, for which they charge about half what New & Lingwood or Cordings charge.

I would presume you get what you pay for, and Tyrwitt has a reputation for being second string as compared to such firms as Cordings and New & Lingwood. Still, it is Jermyn St. I just got their US catalog, which lists the coat for about $375, as I recall.

Here is a photo of a Tyrwitt covert coat:

XCCBRN_5.jpg
 

Mojave Jack

One Too Many
Messages
1,785
Location
Yucca Valley, California
Not to hijack this thread, but Daniel, as you navigate towards the covert coat on the Pakeman, Catto, & Carter site, did you notice the small icon for the short coats?

shortcoatson.jpg


Is the coat shown not very similar to the Hughes jacket in your Fastest Man in the World thread, including being a button front?! I could not find it on the PC&C site, though! Someone, find that jacket!

picture3pu4.jpg
 

geo

Registered User
Messages
384
Location
Canada
That jacket was in the catalogue last season. It's suede. It will surely show up discounted on the site, just be patient. Their leather jackets are interesting; this season there is a longer one in the catalogue, with big pockets with scalloped flaps, that looks very good. I saw it in the catalogue; it's not on the website now, maybe they'll put it up later in the season. I believe that Pakeman take their inspiration for many items they sell from the 30's, for example the leather jackets mentioned, their suede shoe, and the suede chukka boot, which they claim is designed after a 30's pattern, which is higher than the modern pattern.
 

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