The Conversion Corral

[John Galt]

Both hats look good but the parabuntal is outstanding!

To be fair, it started that way. Even rolled up, it was awe inspiring. The real artist here probably was paid a nickel :-(

 

[TheDane]

I put it in the flange and then put a size 7 stretcher in it - I don't have the proper tool. I left the stretcher a little up over the edge of the flange and ironed the brim right up to the edge of the stretcher. This was under a dampened flange cloth, btw - I try to never hot iron directly on a hat.

As I understand it, the trick with the stretcher is quite used - especially when using a flange on a body without sweatband sewn in. Don't feel sorry about that

When ironing felt with a modern iron with a coated sole, you rarely have to use a cloth. As long as you don't get beyond 200°F, you won't harm the felt. Beware of Rayon in bindings, though. It won't survive that high temperatures - cloth or no cloth. With plant-fibres it's a very different ballgame. There I would always use a cloth

 

[John Galt]

Olė:

 

[DTQ]

Wow! I think that rit dye hat looks really good!

 

[TheDane]

Thanks, John. #5768 ... still looks a lot like #125 to me. Maybe one profile - two manufacturers - two numbers. We've seen that before

 

[John Galt]

As I understand it, the trick with the stretcher is quite used - especially when using a flange on a body without sweatband sewn in. Don't feel sorry about that

When ironing felt with a modern iron with a coated sole, you rarely have to use a cloth. As long as you don't get beyond 200°F, you won't harm the felt. Beware of Rayon in bindings, though. It won't survive that high temperatures - cloth or no cloth. With plant-fibres it's a very different ballgame. There I would always use a cloth

Olė,

I have sad irons (as you know) and I use an electric iron primarily for ribbon work, but for ironing flat, crown ironing, and frankly a lot of foot ironing, it's the (1940's, not early 20th century) Eureka electric cordless sad iron that I like the best. It's cordless, electric, temperature controlled, and heavy. It's got everything I want but a Teflon coating ;-)

 

[TheDane]

I have seen some teflon "galoshes" for irons. It's kind of a sole, that you strap on to the bottom of the iron. I haven't tried them, though

Just a thought: For a brim-plater (plating-machine) or a crown iron you never use a cloth between metal sole and felt. Doran's crown ironing machine was patented long before Teflon - and the brim-plater is just a heated aluminum plate, pressed directly against the felt.

 

[bond]

Finished the Montecristi by hand stitching the binding on and added a silk pinch protector in burgundy topped it all off with a Pure silk remove able liner in a similar color to ribbons. Also vented the sweat .

 

[RJR]

WOW! Outstanding!

 

[Joao Encarnado]

It does look nicely done.
Is it the perspective that makes the binding look uneven all around the brim?

 

[bond]

Thanks for comments .
No the brim is un even as is most straws are and another reason to cover this one in a binding.

 

[bond]

Here's one I just finished today. Its a western wt beaver that's been distressed by washing it several times to soften it up and afterwards burning the nap down .
I like this silver belly a lot as it seems to be a different shade than the dress beaver from Winchester . Last one I paired with a charcoal ribbon this time I went with a black 1 1/8.
Silk liner in grey and vented the sweat too.

 

[Geldoc]

Very elegant, Bond.

 

[John Galt]

New ribbon & bow on this navy blue early 1950's Beaver Brand (Langenberg) 100% beaver fur stingy brim. I didn't take before photos, but mocked them up with the old ribbon & bow. I like it a lot better now. I will be selling it though, to help pay off my recent purchase...

Before:

This actually looks better in natural light than it presented, generally. The burgundy ribbon is quite faded, to almost brown. I had bought another burgundy ribbon, but it turned out too wide. I decided I liked the narrower profile and contrast of this horizon blue vintage ribbon:

After:

See classified for more details...

 

[splintercellsz]

Very nice, fellas!

 

[1mach1]

Beautiful work, Scott! Thant combo would work well either dress or casual.

Looks good, JG. I like the smaller ribbon a s well.

 

[John Galt]

Teaser:

A vintage Resistol Beaver 100 western that I'm converting to a Whippet style hat. This is blocked at 7 1/2. It has very soft felt - not nearly as lacquered or pressed as the Stetson 100's I've worked with.

This is a true rescue hat. It was a small sized western with a couple of deep moth bites in the outside of the crown just above the medium width hatband ribbon. I stripped it of all trim except for the brim binding, turned it inside out and re-blocked it. Unfortunately, that was just just the start.

It has taken a lot of work, including pouncing with very fine (1500 grit at the last step) sandpaper to get the unfinished inside of the crown (now the outside) to match the finished brim, and more work to get the bound brim well-flanged with a proper foot put in, but I'm considering it a qualified success at this point.

I say "qualified" because I might (God forbid) still goof this hat up before it's finished. If this hat comes out as I hope it will, however, I'll be putting it up for sale soon in the Classifieds thread.

The top side of the brim is still a little wet, incidentally...

 

[T Jones]

Teaser:

A vintage Resistol Beaver 100 western that I'm converting to a Whippet style hat. This is blocked at 7 1/2. It has very soft felt - not nearly as lacquered or pressed as the Stetson 100's I've worked with.

This is a true rescue hat. It was a small sized western with a couple of deep moth bites in the outside of the crown just above the medium width hatband ribbon. I stripped it of all trim except for the brim binding, turned it inside out and re-blocked it. Unfortunately, that was just just the start.

It has taken a lot of work, including pouncing with very fine (1500 grit at the last step) sandpaper to get the unfinished inside of the crown (now the outside) to match the finished brim, and more work to get the bound brim well-flanged with a proper foot put in, but I'm considering it a qualified success at this point.

I say "qualified" because I might (God forbid) still goof this hat up before it's finished. If this hat comes out as I hope it will, however, I'll be putting it up for sale soon in the Classifieds thread.

The top side of the brim is still a little wet, incidentally...

That looks like it's going to turn out nice John. Too bad it's not a 7 1/8 LO though. Whippets are one of those hats I've been wanting for long while, but are always out of reach for me. I think you'll pull that one off really well. Your talent is really advancing, fast!

 

[bond]

Thanks for the comments guys. These western bodies are a lot of work as others here know but the results can be good sometimes , they also inadvertently teach much patience about sanding .

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for the comments guys. These western bodies are a lot of work as others here know but the results can be good sometimes , they also inadvertently teach much patience about sanding .

Amen to that Bond! I recently had a misadventure in hatting that I'll share as a cautionary tale about western conversions - but not until after I finish taking care of the fallout later today...