The Conversion Corral

[scottyrocks]

Sewing in sweats is a hard thing to do for many of us, unless you have a machine to do it...them needles seem to LOVE making fingers bleed!

I use an old pair of pliers with dull teeth to push and pull the needle through.

 

[Rockwater]

Yeah, I don't think will thin set will cure like that either. I was actually thinking of trying plaster of paris, though. It might be the better candidate.

Plaster of Paris will set up within a half hour. Then you can sand the shape as you like. After it’s fully cured, about a day, apply a coating of something like poly or varnish, to seal.
Also, some other object can be placed in the form to take up some volume to reduce the amount of plaster needed and speed the curing time.

 

[scottyrocks]

Plaster of Paris will set up within a half hour. Then you can sand the shape as you like. After it’s fully cured, about a day, apply a coating of something like poly or varnish, to seal.
Also, some other object can be placed in the form to take up some volume to reduce the amount of plaster needed and speed the curing time.

You have to be careful with that. The thickness of the PoP must be able to withstand the forces of pushing a hat down on it, never mind its own weight. I don't know that I'd go with anything thicker than a hanging rod-sized dowel in the center to keep the whole thing stable. And even that might be too thick, especially front to back.

I would take the form to a Home Depot and try different sized wooden dowels in the center to get a good idea of what would work best.

 

[Cornshucker77]

I use an old pair of pliers with dull teeth to push and pull the needle through.

I use a small pair of needle nose pliers. They work pretty well.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Plaster of Paris will set up within a half hour. Then you can sand the shape as you like. After it’s fully cured, about a day, apply a coating of something like poly or varnish, to seal.
Also, some other object can be placed in the form to take up some volume to reduce the amount of plaster needed and speed the curing time.

My idea is to leave the filler, whatever that may be, inside the plastic block. If you use the plastic as a mold you would need to spend some time smoothing the interior of the block so the plaster would release (unless you don’t mind destroying the plastic to remove the plaster). Of course, the plaster would then be undersized by the thickness of the plastic.

I think Quikrete with a piece of PVC pipe installed in the middle to receive a dowel would work well. Although, my original idea of reinforcing it from the inside using fiberglass still appeals to me.


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[LuvMyMan]

I use an old pair of pliers with dull teeth to push and pull the needle through.

Okay...who's dentures did ya use...dull teeth, hahah!

 

[LuvMyMan]

My idea is to leave the filler, whatever that may be, inside the plastic block. If you use the plastic as a mold you would need to spend some time smoothing the interior of the block so the plaster would release (unless you don’t mind destroying the plastic to remove the plaster). Of course, the plaster would then be undersized by the thickness of the plastic.

I think Quikrete with a piece of PVC pipe installed in the middle to receive a dowel would work well. Although, my original idea of reinforcing it from the inside using fiberglass still appeals to me.


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You are getting very inventive........and smart!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

After months I got the time and the courage to tackle this old Bee Hats western. I finished pouncing it, put in a new sweat, trimmed the brim to 2.75” and started on the crease (the pinches need more definition and I’ll take the back down a bit more). The new sweat is installed and I’m thinking I’ll put the old liner back in. It will be a couple more weeks until the grosgrain ribbon arrives.

I don’t know what it is about doing conversions: the hats always come out imperfect (for me) and they never look as nice as factory hats. It’s just a hoot working on them.

Before:

Midway:

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[Bill Hughes]

... I don’t know what it is about doing conversions: the hats always come out imperfect (for me) and they never look as nice as factory hats. It’s just a hoot working on them.

Before:

Midway:

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I think you are too hard on yourself. First off, who wants a factory hat? No two true custom hats are exactly the same. There are gonna be slight variations! Secondly, it’s the imperfections that give it character.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I think you are too hard on yourself. First off, who wants a factory hat? No two true custom hats are exactly the same. There are gonna be slight variations! Secondly, it’s the imperfections that give it character.

Thanks Bill. My conversions all have...character.

I don’t mind that they don’t come out perfect or if they are if they are better suited as knockabout hats. I also don’t want to spend hours and hours on a hat that will never be exceptional. No matter what you do cheap western felt has its limitations.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Resistol Stagecoach that I’m in the middle of converting. The color is “sunset” and it has more orange tones than my photos capture. The ribbon is a temporary salvaged item while I’m waiting on an order of grosgrain.

Before the ribbon arrives, I’ll open it back to full crown and pounce it some more. I really like this color and it’s worth doing it right...or at least as “right” as I’m capable of.


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[Cornshucker77]

After months I got the time and the courage to tackle this old Bee Hats western. I finished pouncing it, put in a new sweat, trimmed the brim to 2.75” and started on the crease (the pinches need more definition and I’ll take the back down a bit more). The new sweat is installed and I’m thinking I’ll put the old liner back in. It will be a couple more weeks until the grosgrain ribbon arrives.

I don’t know what it is about doing conversions: the hats always come out imperfect (for me) and they never look as nice as factory hats. It’s just a hoot working on them.

Before:

Midway:

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Looks good Brent. And you are right working on the hat is fun!

 

[Cornshucker77]

A conversion from messed up to better. A Resistol I picked up on ebay a while back.

 

[BobHufford]

A conversion from messed up to better. A Resistol I picked up on ebay a while back.

Really like that look and ribbon width. Nice work!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

A conversion from messed up to better. A Resistol I picked up on ebay a while back.
View attachment 113913 View attachment 113914

I like it. In fact, I took a screen shot of the hat to try to copy the shape. Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery!


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[deadlyhandsome]

My wife got tired of listening to me complaining about sewing in this sweat so she just took over.

That worked out quite nicely.



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[Desert dog]

My wife got tired of listening to me complaining about sewing in this sweat so she just took over.

That worked out quite nicely.



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Yes! You have figured it out, complain or bumble it, until she takes over.

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[Cornshucker77]

Really like that look and ribbon width. Nice work!

Thanks Bob.

 

[Cornshucker77]

I like it. In fact, I took a screen shot of the hat to try to copy the shape. Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery!


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Thanks Brent, I appreciate that!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Resistol 3X that I quickly modified to a wide brim “fedora.” No work of art, but for me it’s a much easier hat to wear than the western it started it’s life as.

It arrived poorly packaged:

And it was one dusty SOB:

My conversions aren’t really about converting a western into a fedora as much as it is about making them hybrids. A 3.25” brim, tall crown, and a fedora crease give me a rugged hat that isn’t “cowboy.” I like western hats, but I’m more comfortable in fedoras and these in between hats. As a bonus, they are stout all-weather hats that shrug off abuse. The larger brims also provide better sun protection than fedoras. Just another way of seeing things.
Brent


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