The brim makes the hat--were can I get the brim I want?

[Atterbury Dodd]

Hello,
Up to this date I have not had any new fedoras(just old ones). I am a hat wearer, and I don't believe in wearing out vintage items. So-- I'm trying to decide on what to do for a new hat that comes as close as possible to the quality--and look-- of the hats of the 20's 40's.

For me the brim makes or breaks a hat, a hat must either have a ribbon edge, or a welt edge. Welt edge is my favorite, and I don't like raw edge(had a raw edge hat once and it was vulnerable to ripping ).

So, I am hoping to find a top notch hat with a welt brim. As I understand felted welt brims are not possible to obtain new anymore, but sewn ones are? If I can't find one I shall be forced to get ribbon. Any Ideas on getting one of these (a good welt brim) would be much appreciated.

Atterbury Dodd

P.S.

Does Art Fawcett do welt brims? If he does that would be a dream.

 

[NonEntity]

There are many fedoras on the market with ribbon around the brim edge, termed "bound," and that have welted brims, almost always of the underwelt, turned under and stitched, as opposed to the overwelt, turned on top of the brim and sewn in place, configuration. Akubra offers many of both in its line.

Perhaps you are refering to hats with a Cavanagh-edge brim, in which the felt itself is folded back and "welded" back into the brim so that there is no stitching. Those are no longer available off the rack, but perhaps Art or another custom hatter could make one for you. Expect to pay a substantial premium, of course.

Search this site for Cavanagh, often misspelled "Cavanaugh," to learn more about vintage hats that have such a brim and getting one custom-made.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Perhaps you are refering to hats with a Cavanagh-edge brim, in which the felt itself is folded back and "welded" back into the brim so that there is no stitching. Those are no longer available off the rack, but perhaps Art or another custom hatter could make one for you. Expect to pay a substantial premium, of course.

Unfortunately, the only way to get one these days is to buy vintage. Every custom hatter in country would pay a king's ransom to get them made again, but the felters refuse, no matter how much cash is thrown their way. Believe me, I've tried, Art's tried, and many other hatters have tried.

Brad

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I fear that the only way you're going to get this done is to become a felter, Brad.

bk

 

[surely]

Unfortunately, the only way to get one these days is to buy vintage. Every custom hatter in country would pay a king's ransom to get them made again, but the felters refuse, no matter how much cash is thrown their way. Believe me, I've tried, Art's tried, and many other hatters have tried.
Brad

Just who are these felters? They need some pressure put on them.
Maybe this should be a new thread?

Bound edges that are sewn will still give you the kind of control over the brim that you like, at least that has been my experience.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

From what I've seen, only the sewn welt brims are available, and generally not on the best of hats. Art does not do the welts, but he does great work with a ribbon binding.

Also, search for the new Stetson Windham. It's an interesting hat, but very tapered crown. Not the best for a 20's-40's look, but it has a sewn welt brim that is also ribbon bound. It's pretty neat, design-wise.

 

[Atterbury Dodd]

From what I've seen, only the sewn welt brims are available, and generally not on the best of hats. Art does not do the welts, but he does great work with a ribbon binding.

It seems like if someone could do a curl brim ,(like on a homburg) they could do a sewn welt edge. I wonder if Mr. Fawcett would try it?

Also, search for the new Stetson Windham. It's an interesting hat, but very tapered crown. Not the best for a 20's-40's look, but it has a sewn welt brim that is also ribbon bound. It's pretty neat, design-wise.

I looked up the Windham on Google. I like the brim but not the crown. Maybe it could be blocked differently.

 

[feltfan]

If I'm not mistaken, those Gus Miller/Batsakes hats
we've been seeing here lately have underwelts. Would
that do?

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=27035

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=27226

 

[Atterbury Dodd]

If I'm not mistaken, those Gus Miller/Batsakes hats
we've been seeing here lately have underwelts. Would
that do?

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=27035

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=27226

I sure like the second one you listed. The only thing that scares me is how it seems hard to get what you want(according to what the fellow on the first link said).

 

[Stoney]

You can also check Duane's store ,thefedorastore.com, for beaver brand hats, various edge treatments are available as options. raw, pencil curl, ribbion bound and underwelt.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

Oh! Yeah! I forgot that Duanne offers an underwelt! There's an option!

 

[John in Covina]

Just who are these felters? They need some pressure put on them.

*****

"He made'em an offer he couldn't refuse.
Either they made the Cavanagh Edge or his brains would be on the felt."

 

[Atterbury Dodd]

Hello again,
I just went to the Optimo hats website, and they had what appeared to be a felted welt edge! I know Optimo is very steep, but I have been led to believe that they are one of the best hatters today--is this true? I don't really have a problem spending $500 on a hat if I get what I want and the quality is tops.

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks,
Atterbury

 

[Brad Bowers]

Only if they are vintage bodies. Gary White also offers the Cavanagh Edge on his website, but they are just a collection of vintage bodies that he has. Small ones, too, from what I remember.

Brad

 

[metropd]

Yes that is true. Gary White is truley a pleasure to talk to and knows more about hats than any hatter or person I have ever met in my life(online or offline).