The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Steve1857]

I never watch rugby without one, Bob

Fun finds, thanks for sharing.

Ran across a couple of ads from 1929 (Yale Daily News). Who's wearing one to a football game this weekend?

View attachment 268586

View attachment 268590

 

[dkstott]

I'd love to find a brown colored derby / bowler with a lower crown height. The taller round tops just don't suit me.

Surfing eBay, it's tough to determine what's what from the photos.


I'd appreciate any guidance on models or styles that cover what I'm looking for??

 

[Steve1857]

It's difficult to guide on that one. Most if not all top hat makers produced low crown and high crown bowlers/derbies.

The best advice I can give is look for one that was made for horse riding. They tend to be lower crown like mine in the photos.

Other than that, ask the seller for measurements.

I'd love to find a brown colored derby / bowler with a lower crown height. The taller round tops just don't suit me.

Surfing eBay, it's tough to determine what's what from the photos.


I'd appreciate any guidance on models or styles that cover what I'm looking for??

 

[Tukwila]

There's a brown derby, 7-1/8, on etsy now.

 

[Steve1857]

Do you have a link Doug?

There's a brown derby, 7-1/8, on etsy now.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I’m looking for a wider brim derby, something like this:

 

[Tukwila]

Do you have a link Doug?

PM sent

 

[Steve1857]

Some of you may have seen this one a week or so back. Due to the damage Ross @Ross Young was practically giving this one away. Despite it's imperfections I just had to have it in my English hat collection. Ross was kind enough to make the extra effort and have it shipped to Denmark.

Originally, I thought it was from the 50's. Now that it's in my possession, I believe it to be around the mid 60's.

A top notch and very trendy Bowler in its day from a highly respectable English maker.

Thanks Ross

 

[RossRYoung]

Glad the Scott arrived safely, Steve! That first pic is very hard to see the shave, do you think it could be evened out?

 

[Steve1857]

A trick of the light made it almost invisible and shows, in fact, what a great hat this once was.
I don't know if the shave can be evened out, but I'm going to make some inquiries. Either way, I'm still happy with my Scott

Glad the Scott arrived safely, Steve! That first pic is very hard to see the shave, do you think it could be evened out?

 

[mayserwegener]

This auction finished today.

"Emperor Francis Joseph I of Austria - A Personal Bowler / Melone Hat, Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien, black wool felt, silk repp band and rim trimmed with silk repp band, leather sweat band, silk lining, on the inside manufacturer’s mark "Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien" with imperial double eagle and the emperor’s gold-embossed initials "FJI.", 31.5 x 26 cm, c. 1900, (Lu)

Personal bowler hat of the emperor, worn in civil dress. There are several photos of the emperor showing him with this hat model. Especially well-known is the image of Emperor Francis Joseph I with his grandnephew Archduke Charles Francis Joseph in the year 1894 in a park at Cannes.

The Realized Price: EUR 25,300"

You can see more detailed photos here.

https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/6887...&utm_campaign=barnebys&utm_content=2020-10-19

If scroll down to Lot 86 you can see the Realized Price.

https://www.dorotheum.com/en/a/72373/#6887923

I couldn't find any detailed in information on Carl / Karl Weyrich so can't say if the Stiff Felt was sourced or made in house. The physical location on Google Maps is retail today but there could have been some type of small production. Carl / Karl Weyrich doesn't come up in any of Austrian Hat Maker News member lists. He is listed on page 25 of the Austrian Industry Guide (1926).

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/217-austrian-hat-industry-guide-1926/

 

[Steve1857]

That is one super Bowler befitting a Kaiser, Steve. I particularly like the colours used in the liner logo.

Pity we didn't know about it beforehand, we could have crowd funded

 

[steur]

This auction finished today.

"Emperor Francis Joseph I of Austria - A Personal Bowler / Melone Hat, Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien, black wool felt, silk repp band and rim trimmed with silk repp band, leather sweat band, silk lining, on the inside manufacturer’s mark "Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien" with imperial double eagle and the emperor’s gold-embossed initials "FJI.", 31.5 x 26 cm, c. 1900, (Lu)

Personal bowler hat of the emperor, worn in civil dress. There are several photos of the emperor showing him with this hat model. Especially well-known is the image of Emperor Francis Joseph I with his grandnephew Archduke Charles Francis Joseph in the year 1894 in a park at Cannes.

The Realized Price: EUR 25,300"

You can see more detailed photos here.

https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/6887...&utm_campaign=barnebys&utm_content=2020-10-19

If scroll down to Lot 86 you can see the Realized Price.

https://www.dorotheum.com/en/a/72373/#6887923

I couldn't find any detailed in information on Carl / Karl Weyrich so can't say if the Stiff Felt was sourced or made in house. The physical location on Google Maps is retail today but there could have been some type of small production. Carl / Karl Weyrich doesn't come up in any of Austrian Hat Maker News member lists. He is listed on page 25 of the Austrian Industry Guide (1926).

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/217-austrian-hat-industry-guide-1926/

It may cost a pretty penny, but to be fair: it is a beautiful hat.

 

[steur]

Moores Bowler (riding hat actually) in light brown. Size 7 1/8 (English). Brim at 5cm and crown at about 12cm (a bit lower than usual for bowlers, but fitting for riding hats). As a riding hat it's a bit heavier than a bowler as well: 212 grams.

 

[Steve1857]

Can't wait to see the Moores on someone's head soon, Stefan.

Moores Bowler (riding hat actually) in light brown. Size 7 1/8 (English). Brim at 5cm and crown at about 12cm (a bit lower than usual for bowlers, but fitting for riding hats). As a riding hat it's a bit heavier than a bowler as well: 212 grams.

 

[steur]

Can't wait to see the Moores on someone's head soon, Stefan.

As a riding hat it does need a horse to really shine, Steve.

 

[Steve1857]

What? You mean it doesn't come with one? ;-)

As a riding hat it does need a horse to really shine, Steve.

 

[Rmccamey]

A hat with a free horse...or kitten...or bunny! What could be better!

What? You mean it doesn't come with one? ;-)

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Not from the emperor but new for me:
Hückel "Elastic" Melone/Derby - as we have seen from Steve and others here often. Any Dating? 30s?
Condition of this one is ok, unfortunately already before and then a little more dented by the transport.
But the flexible stiff felt - this is completely new to me - will be able to compensate the marks.
The hat has not yet been treated properly with steam and brush: please forgive me.

The sweat is also quite well intact and above all still supple.

The real reason for my purchase is the fantastic green liner,
which is glued and not sewn in - usual for stiff felts?

The label...

And here is an interesting detail behind the leather at the front:
A wavy piece of felt (black) with plain felt (white) over it - sewn in.
Reminds me of a mixture of cork strips and the intermediate piece at the Borsalinos.
Is this typical for the "Elastic"?

 

[Steve1857]

That is one great catch, Matt. Nice find. I'd say approx thirties due to the "flexible stiff felt", the liner, and sweat.
Imo, the dents are its badge of honour showing its age and use. I wouldn't worry too much about steaming them out.
But that's just me.

Not from the emperor but new for me:
Hückel "Elastic" Melone/Derby - as we have seen from Steve and others here often. Any Dating? 30s?
Condition of this one is ok, unfortunately already before and then a little more dented by the transport.
But the flexible stiff felt - this is completely new to me - will be able to compensate the marks.
The hat has not yet been treated properly with steam and brush: please forgive me.

The sweat is also quite well intact and above all still supple.

The real reason for my purchase is the fantastic green liner,
which is glued and not sewn in - usual for stiff felts?

The label...

And here is an interesting detail behind the leather at the front:
A wavy piece of felt (black) with plain felt (white) over it - sewn in.
Reminds me of a mixture of cork strips and the intermediate piece at the Borsalinos.
Is this typical for the "Elastic"?