The Bowler or Derby Hat

[mayserwegener]

And headshot...

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Stefan, Great find! Wears well too!

 

[Redfokker]

Wool Stiff Felts were common in Europe. There is some variance in components based on quality levels within Wool Stiff Felts. For example this Brüder Böhm Wien Wool Stiff Felt would be at the higher end.

Is there a real difference in the overall "feel" between these fine wools and a true fur felt?

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great find! Wears well too!

Steve, thanks. A rare thing to find a bowler that fits you right away.

 

[steur]

Is there a real difference in the overall "feel" between these fine wools and a true fur felt?

In my experience there's not much of a difference. The fur felt hats feel a bit more smooth to the touch, but the treatment of woolfelts was at a very high standard back then.

 

[mayserwegener]

Is there a real difference in the overall "feel" between these fine wools and a true fur felt?

In my experience there's not much of a difference. The fur felt hats feel a bit more smooth to the touch, but the treatment of woolfelts was at a very high standard back then.

Yes I would say in general the Wool Stiff Felts have a rougher finish to the touch. It might be Wool type and / or treatment / impregnating related. Here is an old German Stiff Felt made from Negretti Wool that is very smooth and light weight.

 

[Redfokker]

I fished this rare Cavanagh derby out of the bay. It is very early and kind of strange. The John Cavanagh Ltd. early address on 247 Park Avenue puts this derby in the mid to late 1920s range. The mfg. tag is from Crofutt & Knapp, which I believe is also very early in production. The sweat and pleated liner are of interest. There is also a small ring in the back of the brim, which appears to have the patina of an original feature. This is one hefty derby weighing in at 11.3 oz. All of these features seem to point to an equestrian "helmet", I have not found another like it on these threads. Strangely though, there is another derby on Ebay right now with the little ring in the brim. It shows some age, the stitching on the sweat is toast. The brim and ribbon are passable, but also have a definite patina. I need to do some restoration cleaning, and from that point, probably a display piece due to the sweat.

 

[moehawk]

Saw this on eBay, and had to make an offer. Accepted, and it showed up on my doorstep earlier today. A Penn-Craft, in really nice shape.

When I checked out the sweat, I saw that what I couldn't make out in the seller's photo was Long Oval.

Then later when looking under the thick, supple sweatband for tags and other goodies, this.

Which, unfortunately fell out, along with the size tag. Extra Long Oval...a first for me. Actually, never have had a Long Oval.

More tags:

And this stamp.

Liner is in good shape other than a couple of spots.

Crown 5", brim 1 7/8". 153g. Black as black gets. Beautiful smooth finish. A brief stretching of the sides gives a promising fit. It will sleep on a band block tonight.

Snug, but not pinching the sides of my head

As far as I know, Penn-Craft hats were made between '34 and '41. Makes dating easy if that is the case.

Powered by happy thoughts

 

[steur]

Saw this on eBay, and had to make an offer. Accepted, and it showed up on my doorstep earlier today. A Penn-Craft, in really nice shape.

When I checked out the swest, I saw that what I couldn't make out in the seller's photo was Long Oval.

Then later when looking under the thick, supple sweatband for tags and other goodies, this.

Which, unfortunately fell out, along with the size tag. Extra Long Oval...a first for me. Actually, never have had a Long Oval.

More tags:

And this stamp.

Liner is in good shape other than a couple of spots.

Crown 5", brim 1 7/8". 153g. Black as black gets. Beautiful smooth finish. A brief stretching of the sides gives a promising fit. It will sleep on a band block tonight.

Snug, but not pinching the sides of my head

As far as I know, Penn-Craft hats were made between '34 and '41. Makes dating easy if that is the case.

Powered by happy thoughts

Great looking bowler, John. Nice find!

 

[moehawk]

Great looking bowler, John. Nice find!

Thanks Stefan!

 

[steur]

Borsalino melone. This one came with a battersby hat box I was really after and it is far too small (even for me). At thenty five euros for both hat and box I couldn't say no. Size 3 1/2 (or 53). Brim is 5cm and the crown is 11 cm high. This has got to be the best felt on a bowler I have encountered so far (and I have some pretty good bowlers). The model is called "stregone" (which means something like wizard). Judging by the label (with written size) and size-tag this is fairly old. Thirties is my guess (partly based on the seller's info). Another thing of note is that there is an addition to the Borsalino logo: underneath the antica casa fondata nel 1857 there is a translation in Dutch of the "fondata nel 1857" part. Never saw that on a borsalino before.
Last two pictures are one of the shop it came from (P van 't Kaar in Zaandam) and the auction picture.

 

[Redfokker]

Borsalino melone. This one came with a battersby hat box I was really after and it is far too small (even for me). At thenty five euros for both hat and box I couldn't say no. Size 3 1/2 (or 53). Brim is 5cm and the crown is 11 cm high. This has got to be the best felt on a bowler I have encountered so far (and I have some pretty good bowlers). The model is called "stregone" (which means something like wizard). Judging by the label (with written size) and size-tag this is fairly old. Thirties is my guess (partly based on the seller's info). Another thing of note is that there is an addition to the Borsalino logo: underneath the antica casa fondata nel 1857 there is a translation in Dutch of the "fondata nel 1857" part. Never saw that on a borsalino before.
Last two pictures are one of the shop it came from (P van 't Kaar in Zaandam) and the auction picture.

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A beautiful Melone Stefan. I agree that the box would have made the deal. Maybe it is of a size that someone's lady might sport it here on the lounge. Nothing more becoming than a beauty wearing this beauty.

 

[steur]

A beautiful Melone Stefan. I agree that the box would have made the deal. Maybe it is of a size that someone's lady might sport it here on the lounge. Nothing more becoming than a beauty wearing this beauty.

Thanks, Mike. That's a good idea. My niece is a size 53 (I bought a hat for her before).

 

[bowlerman]

Derby pyramid. Making choices for some Dickens concerts.


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[steur]

Derby pyramid. Making choices for some Dickens concerts.


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Holy moly! That is impressive!

 

[1mach1]

Derby pyramid. Making choices for some Dickens concerts.


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Super cool Jeff!

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[RJR]

Super cool Jeff!

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+1

 

[Mustang Mike's Hats]

Yeah, what RJR said ... (well 1mach1 actually, but...)

 

[DrMacabre]

Hi, pretty beat-up Willoughby bowler i'm using for oldwest LARP, linen shirt from the 1900's.

 

[KarlCrow]

Hi, pretty beat-up Willoughby bowler i'm using for oldwest LARP, linen shirt from the 1900's.

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Cool

 

[David Conwill]

That is a great look!