The Bowler or Derby Hat

[TheManInTheHat]

I assume that hat shops today do something similar with something other than sponge?

You'd think so wouldn't you?! Lock Hatters in London definitely use sponge around 1/8 inch thick to assist in conforming. I have evidence! That stuff we use to seal draughts in window frames also works ok and self-adheres. I've occasionally used tennis racquet tape and haberdasher's interface. some eBay hat owners in my experience have used folded-up tissue paper (yuk). There are resourceful people out there selling sticky-back sponge, supposedly purpose-built for hats, if you feel like paying more for the same item!

 

[mayserwegener]

Historically German and Austrian Shops used Cork Spacers and they still do today. Here are some pre 1940 German Cork Spacers of mine.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Those are nice

 

[Steph]

Ooh, cork spacers.

Are those readily available? Not from Austria in 1927, of course.

 

[Steph]

You'd think so wouldn't you?! Lock Hatters in London definitely use sponge around 1/8 inch thick to assist in conforming. I have evidence! That stuff we use to seal draughts in window frames also works ok and self-adheres. I've occasionally used tennis racquet tape and haberdasher's interface. some eBay hat owners in my experience have used folded-up tissue paper (yuk). There are resourceful people out there selling sticky-back sponge, supposedly purpose-built for hats, if you feel like paying more for the same item!

Well, we'll see how the size works out.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[mayserwegener]

Ooh, cork spacers.

Are those readily available? Not from Austria in 1927, of course.

Yes I can get them if you are interested but they don't look as nice as the old ones.

 

[Steph]

Yes I can get them if you are interested but they don't look as nice as the old ones.

Thank you for the offer, I appreciate it. Let's see what pans out.

We may actually be neighbors!

 

[mayserwegener]

Ok. Yes I live half way between DC and Baltimore.

 

[mayserwegener]

Those are nice

Thanks! I have a few more. When it comes to homemade spacers by far the most popular are newspapers.

 

[Steph]

Ah yes, I believe my grandfather used those.

Take up much of the sweat, and easily replaceable.

 

[Steph]

...

A Dobbs derby which the seller noted as being 7 3/8 (excellent), but also noted 22 3/4 inside the brim (not so excellent).

We shall see when they arrive. Could end up being two up, two down.

So, one up, one down.

That ticket on the side is a repair ticket, proof can be seen under the hat band. C'est la vie.

 

[NewJack]

Well...Finally pulled the trigger and awaiting the arrival of my first Derby! I supposed every hat lover should have at least one! Wasn't certain as to the felt (Wool?) but it looks as if it was well preserved. Can't wait to see how it looks on me!!

 

[mayserwegener]

Congrats -> Looks fantastic! NOS condition. Do you have it hand? I would be interested to know if there are paper labels behind the sweatband. The reason I ask is I have few old TONAKs from F.R. Tripler & Co. so wondering who made this Stiff Felt.

 

[NewJack]

Congrats -> Looks fantastic! NOS condition. Do you have it hand? I would be interested to know if there are paper labels behind the sweatband. The reason I ask is I have few old TONAKs from F.R. Tripler & Co. so wondering who made this Stiff Felt.

Thanks sir!! According to the seller, it was purchased from the Cavanagh hat store in NYC with the original squared Cavanagh hat box. Anxiously awaiting its arrival and will definitely share as I surely welcome more historical information! Pics forthcoming!

 

[Brad Bowers]

Looks like a good Derby, but it was purchased at F. R. Tripler & Co., a men's clothing shop, not Cavanagh. If it's a square Cavanagh box, the box is modern, i.e., post-1972. Your Derby is far older than that, probably '30s or '40s. Looking forward to more photos. Wear it well!

Brad
~The Hatted Professor

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks sir!! According to the seller, it was purchased from the Cavanagh hat store in NYC with the original squared Cavanagh hat box. Anxiously awaiting its arrival and will definitely share as I surely welcome more historical information! Pics forthcoming!

As Brad mentioned the hat was sold by F.R. Tripler & Co. NYC. I was just interested in who made it for them since I didn't see any outer marking.

 

[NewJack]

Looks like a good Derby, but it was purchased at F. R. Tripler & Co., a men's clothing shop, not Cavanagh. If it's a square Cavanagh box, the box is modern, i.e., post-1972. Your Derby is far older than that, probably '30s or '40s. Looking forward to more photos. Wear it well!

Brad
~The Hatted Professor

Thanks Brad...I've learned to believe half of what you read! The label clearly lists its point of sale! I love the box though! If it looks as great on me as it does on you, wearing it well will be an understatement! Looking forward to its arrival for sure! By the by, am enjoying reading your blog on the history of Derbies!

 

[NewJack]

Okay. The eagle landed today and I'm quite pleased!! Markings and more fotos as promised. I have a feeling this one's a great find!














Under the sweatband (which by the way, is the most comfortable sweat I've ever felt inside of a hat!)

 

[Steph]

I've got two bowlers on the way. Well, a bowler and a derby, to be most accurate.

First, the bowler. Forgive the pictures, they are eBay specials. It hasn't arrived yet. My head seems to measure 23 3/16s, so I hope this is a bit small. It is marked 7 5/8s and 62, but I wore 7 5/8 in the military. I like this brim. You guys can probably date it off of the top of your head, but I can't. Yet.

Success! It arrived and it is perfect! Those pictures suck, but it's not worth retaking the same ones. There is not a thing of interest behind the sweatband. Dang.

Now, certainly I have a long oval head. I thought the hat would be too big, and oddly, it isn't, but here is the problem. Front to back, it fits fine, maybe even 1-2mm too small. However, over the ears, I can fit a fingertip between the hat and my head.

From what I have read here, stretching these things out isn't the way to go. I haven't gotten the impression that such a small adjustment is really restretching, per se, but is there a way to adjust this bowler? In on the sides a bit, which I assume would probably take care of the front/back issue, and then I could do any minor adjustments with cork, newspaper, etc. as noted earlier in this thread.

Thoughts, anyone?

 

[Meyer The Hatter]

Success! It arrived and it is perfect! Those pictures suck, but it's not worth retaking the same ones. There is not a thing of interest behind the sweatband. Dang.

Now, certainly I have a long oval head. I thought the hat would be too big, and oddly, it isn't, but here is the problem. Front to back, it fits fine, maybe even 1-2mm too small. However, over the ears, I can fit a fingertip between the hat and my head.

From what I have read here, stretching these things out isn't the way to go. I haven't gotten the impression that such a small adjustment is really restretching, per se, but is there a way to adjust this bowler? In on the sides a bit, which I assume would probably take care of the front/back issue, and then I could do any minor adjustments with cork, newspaper, etc. as noted earlier in this thread.

Thoughts, anyone?

What we find works the best is actually weathering strip. It's soft and thick enough to be effective and it has an adhesive on the back, preventing it from falling out. For someone with a long oval head, cut two medium size pieces (or however much you need), peel back the interior band and lay them on the sides for the adjustment. It should help you a bit.