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The Bowler or Derby Hat

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,134
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
Hello I love your beaver skin bowler hat. Do you want to sell it?








So this one is a bit odd. It doesn't appear to have been converted from a top hat to bowler. But its very clearly two different colors of silk plush or beaver fur. the bottom is a dark brown, the top is more often seen black. It looks like it was repaired at some point by someone other than Dunlap.

Whats also strange is that the construction seems far more delicate than what would be needed for an equestrian derby. This would provide very little head protection.

Aside from that it's in wonderful condition considering its age. It is a small size, but after wearing it out and about I feel like this was meant to be worn on the very top of the head. I don't think i've gotten more compliments on a hat than this one.
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Indeed a very interesting one... :O
 

TheManInTheHat

One of the Regulars
Messages
161
Location
Hong Kong
My vintage Tress & Co. bowler is stiff and heavy, fells like a helmet.

That's interesting. Here's my high-crown bowler tress black furfeltM.jpg Img_6513s.jpg Tress, which is one of the lightest Bowlers I own. Weighs just 132g. Is it possible yours is an Equestrian hat?
 

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,134
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
That's interesting. Here's my high-crown View attachment 53959 View attachment 53960 Tress, which is one of the lightest Bowlers I own. Weighs just 132g. Is it possible yours is an Equestrian hat?
My Tress & Co. seems to be a little bit taller than yours and and have less taper on the crown. I think it's older too. The lining is (or was) white with black printing in a 20's style
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
C. G. Wilke "Haar Rival", 60cm, 168g, probably late 1920s maybe early 1930s. This is a great Stiff Felt with a fantastic finish and a interesting bow design. It measures closer to 61cm so a big one. This one was definitely conformed causing a small amount of brim distortion front to back.

28680428485_cbbe175b95_b.jpg


28602753261_fe1c27283f_b.jpg


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You can see the can see conformed head shape in the following photo.

28602729031_45f816213c_b.jpg


28649032986_f830f6c036_b.jpg


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28602786831_29e617184b_b.jpg
 
Last edited:

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,134
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
C. G. Wilke "Haar Rival", 60cm, 168g, probably late 1920s maybe early 1930s. This is a great Stiff Felt with a fantastic finish and a interesting bow design. It measures closer to 61cm so a big one. This one was definitely conformed causing a small amount of brim distortion front to back.

28680428485_cbbe175b95_b.jpg


28602753261_fe1c27283f_b.jpg


28602748411_3da87d04b8_b.jpg


28602745121_b6df729abb_b.jpg


You can see the can see conformed head shape in the following photo.

28602729031_45f816213c_b.jpg


28649032986_f830f6c036_b.jpg


28065289013_4e4419201e_b.jpg


28396562850_680f028fb0_b.jpg


28602786831_29e617184b_b.jpg
Beautiful bowler... I really like the bow job in the ribbon.
 

Steph

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Washington, DC
I've got two bowlers on the way. Well, a bowler and a derby, to be most accurate.

First, the bowler. Forgive the pictures, they are eBay specials. It hasn't arrived yet. My head seems to measure 23 3/16s, so I hope this is a bit small. It is marked 7 5/8s and 62, but I wore 7 5/8 in the military. I like this brim. You guys can probably date it off of the top of your head, but I can't. Yet.

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Then...
 

Steph

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Washington, DC
...

A Dobbs derby which the seller noted as being 7 3/8 (excellent), but also noted 22 3/4 inside the brim (not so excellent).

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And, can't really make out the tag on the right of the photograph, other than "4393":

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We shall see when they arrive. Could end up being two up, two down.
 

TheManInTheHat

One of the Regulars
Messages
161
Location
Hong Kong
Looks beautiful! And lightweight I think. I have the same hat - yours has been better looked-after. But British sizes tends to be one full size larger than US so you may need to make a discreet adjustment.
 

Steph

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Washington, DC
Looks beautiful! And lightweight I think. I have the same hat - yours has been better looked-after. But British sizes tends to be one full size larger than US so you may need to make a discreet adjustment.

Crap, then the Dunn will likely be huge on my 23 3/16" head.

One down, one to go.

Actually, one up, one down. D'oh!
 

TheManInTheHat

One of the Regulars
Messages
161
Location
Hong Kong
See when it arrives. But there are easy ways to make it fit perfectly. I often use little strips of sponge - (kitchen sponge, nothing fancy) - about 3 inches long and 0.75 inches wide and 0.25 inches thick and just tuck them here and there under the sweatband. It works.
 

Steph

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Washington, DC
See when it arrives. But there are easy ways to make it fit perfectly. I often use little strips of sponge - (kitchen sponge, nothing fancy) - about 3 inches long and 0.75 inches wide and 0.25 inches thick and just tuck them here and there under the sweatband. It works.

Thank you for the tips, I'll give it a shot.

I assume that hat shops today do something similar with something other than sponge?
 

Steph

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Washington, DC
What do you professionals do with the little fiddly bits of provenance in your vintage hats?

Some lovely condition Austrian miracle bowler shows up at your place, filled with stamps and tags and bits behind the sweatband. Do you leave them there, knowing that if you're going to use the hat that they will quickly get destroyed? Remove them for safekeeping? Just roll with it, as it's a hat to be enjoyed?

Unless you are ordering a museum piece for looking at, what say you?
 

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