The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Lt.hats]

Yesteryear, that's a great first bowler, it suits you.

Dogman, I like that tall derby, I have a Scala that is very similar to it.


Bowlerman, I agree with you that a derby/bowler should fit like a glove, but so far, I have found it is hard to get that perfect fit, especially with vintage ones. (for those of us with large heads) I just bought this inexpensive wool derby last week. It's made by Broner hats (linwood avenue) and I wasn't planning on buying it, but once I put it on my head, the fit was perfect and I knew I had to have it. I wore it the rest of the day and after a few minutes I forgot that I was wearing it, which is how I measure how well a hat fits. I'm hoping the western wool derby I just ordered from River Junction will fit as well as this one does.

 

[Lt.hats]

Here's an interesting little soft woolie. No info on it whatsoever. It was one of the first lids I ever found in an antique shop. No liner, no markings, no sweatband, at least until I had Parker from falcon park hattery put one in.
I've reshaped the brim several times. Sometimes I think of it as my thug hat. Like with a cigar at a billiards table.

The sepia picture is probably from six years ago, but I think it shows the old roll better.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

Bowlerman, That is one Awesome derby!

 

[bowlerman]

Thanks! It's such a weird little thing. totally floppy, but clearly intended to be worn open crown and with the pencil roll. You know, I have others with similar crown height and stingy brims like that one that somehow just don't look nearly as good.

Lt. HAts, that one looks great!

 

[Lt.hats]

Thanks bowlerman, I have always liked derbies, especially tall derbies. Speaking of which, I got this one in the mail today. When I have better lighting I will post more photos in the new hats forum . It's from River Junction, I got it in wool, but I'm going to be ordering another one one in fur felt soon. I'm also thinking of adding a Stetson Masterson to my collection as well. When I have the time I am going to drive up to Buckaroo Hatters and get one of their derbies made to order.

 

[DOGMAN]

Lt.hats,I like your tall derby.

 

[mayserwegener]

The Stiff Felts made today are more or less stiffer Soft Felt hats. No hat manufacture or custom hatter today is making what would be considered a Stiff Felt hat back in the day. Also some old Stiff Felts were more flexible and light weight but were still able to maintain the proper characteristics (and match the wear-ability of Soft Felts). For example this J. Hückel´s Söhne Plume Melone.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%c2%b4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page__st__80#entry614

This Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR Melone that belongs to Manfred weighs only 115 grams.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/20-rehfus-federleicht/#entry605

The more rigid / heavier weight old Stiff Felts were usually conformed. Also self conforming sweatbands were eventually introduced. For example this Stetson Flexible Conforming Standard Quality Derby.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?32818-The-Bowler-or-Derby-Hat&p=1064455&viewfull=1#post1064455

I hope this isn't taken the wrong way. I just want to point out that there is a difference.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks bowlerman, I have always liked derbies, especially tall derbies. Speaking of which, I got this one in the mail today. When I have better lighting I will post more photos in the new hats forum . It's from River Junction, I got it in wool, but I'm going to be ordering another one one in fur felt soon. I'm also thinking of adding a Stetson Masterson to my collection as well. When I have the time I am going to drive up to Buckaroo Hatters and get one of their derbies made to order.

Looks great!

 

[bowlerman]

yes it does!

 

[Lt.hats]

Thanks Dogman! I took it for a test drive today and got a lot of compliments, and more than a few looks.

Mayser...thank you for your posting. I am constantly on the lookout for vintage hats and would love to find a vintage hat similar to this one (in a 7 5/8 LO), but I think I am in for a little bit of a wait

Bowlerman, Thank You, its not the best constructed hat I own, nor does it fit as well as I would like, but having said that, I love this hat! I am already trying to find a western store near me that carries the Stetson Masterson. I am very interested in the buffalo fur felt and how it compares to beaver.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes it would be a rare find regardless of the size. Unfortunately vintage options (any type of hat) are rare at your hat size. As I mentioned I hope my post wasn't taken the wrong way.

 

[alanfgag]

This early Stetson derby didn't bring as much on its second go around. Look forward to sharing pictures when it arrives.

 

[mayserwegener]

Looking forward to the photos! Great pick up!

 

[ManofKent]

Looks a good find Alan.

 

[alanfgag]

Thanks! It will likely be a little big, but it might be the earliest Stetson I have handled, first decade of the 20th century, perhaps.

 

[Lt.hats]

Yes it would be a rare find regardless of the size. Unfortunately vintage options (any type of hat) are rare at your hat size. As I mentioned I hope my post wasn't taken the wrong way.

No worries, It didn't go over wrong.

 

[Lt.hats]

Alan, Great Derby, I too am looking forward to the photos.

 

[Lt.hats]

And speaking of big derbies, I found this piece that may have been posted before but I thought it was interesting.

http://whateverblog.dallasnews.com/...w-dallas-landmark-the-cedars-bowler-hat.html/

Its about a 20 foot derby statue in Dallas, TX. I wonder if I could get one of these for my front yard.

 

[alanfgag]

Stetson Real Nutria Fur derby

I've taken quite a few photos of this Stetson ventilated derby in nutria fur felt. It is taller than average - blocked at 5 3/4" the crown stands 5 1/2" above the brim, which is 2 3/16" front and back. The felt thickness appears to taper as it reaches the crown - very thin, almost like heavy parchment on the top at the ventilation holes. The 2 1/4" rolled sweatband is attached via a fabric "reed" and is very soft and flexible. The laced perforations at the rear are finer than one would see in later iterations of this design feature. The hat overall is in excellent condition. Age is a question. If the LOT number is 3XXX it would suggest 1920s. If it is 8XXX, it is like from an earlier sequence of numbers, similar to the 1900 Exposition hat posted by RLK in the Sweatband LOTXXXX thread. The stylish raked bow is seen in the plates Josh posted from 1914, but the crown is higher and ale quite rounded. I've included some comparison photos with a LOT3XXX Flexible Conforming with the same bow style and similar form. Maurice L. Rothschild began in Minneapolis. Their large Chicago store opened for business in 1907. Note the comparison between Real Nutria Felt logos... the later logo with more artful (and beaverish) rendition of the nutria is from a late 1920s-1930 western hat.

 

[alanfgag]

 

[Lt.hats]

Alan, I said it before, but it's worth saying again....that's a beautiful derby. The height is just perfect and I can't believe something made so long ago is in such wonderful shape.