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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
On the stiff felt I posted the stitches popped when I removed folded paper (was being used as a spacer) that was behind the sweatband. I tried to be very careful but they still popped.
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
I think it was more a case of thread dry rot. Regardless I would rather have the original sweatband. There aren't any modern sweatbands that would be a proper (only functional) replacement.
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
C. G. Wilke Guben made for A. Breiter München, size 55cm, probably 1930s. This one is made of wool or a fur - wool blend. Interesting black sweatband.

14260733869_3141822bca_b.jpg


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14260854188_66c3c3790f_b.jpg
 

bombin

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Salt Lake City
Identifying a bowler hat?

I got a bowler hat off of ebay recently, and it's missing its sweatband and lining, but there is a remnant of a tag left - I was wondering if anyone could identify:

xwBTL24.jpg


It looks like "19..." at the top, and "Of Nor--" "REGIS-" at bottom ("REGISTERED TRADEMARK", I assume).

Maybe "Of Norfolk"?

The hat itself has a sort of odd star shape punched into the top of the crown (hard to see, but here):

FghcIam.jpg
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
The only help we'll be able to give you is a rough idea on the date. The label remnant in your Derby is from the United Hatters of North America, a consolidated union of hat makers and hat finishers. The tag would date it to between 1896 and 1934. Other than that, there's no way of knowing which manufacturer made the hat without and other information. Some were union shops, and some weren't.

It's possible that there was a manufacturer known for that type of bow, as it's fairly atypical, but not completely unknown.

Brad
 
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bombin

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Salt Lake City
Many thanks, Brad. That dating information is very interesting, even if it doesn't identify particular manufacturer, as I had really no idea about the date. Does the star shape in the crown mean anything to you?
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Many thanks, Brad. That dating information is very interesting, even if it doesn't identify particular manufacturer, as I had really no idea about the date. Does the star shape in the crown mean anything to you?

It's just one of many different ventilation patterns that manufacturers had available to them. I don't know that it's specific to any one maker.

Brad
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Two C&K Derbies

Two fairly recent additions to my Derby collection from Crofut & Knapp, the second one very special! More here in the Crofut & Knapp Tales thread.

Mid- to late-1930s house-branded for Matthess in Hollywood:
CKMatthessDerby3.jpg CKMatthessDerby4.jpg CKMatthessDerby5.jpg

1909-1914 Knapp-Felt for Dobbs & Co.:

CKDobbs242Derby2.jpg CKDobbs242Derby4.jpg
CKDobbs242Derby6.jpg CKDobbs242Derby5.jpg

Brad
 

bombin

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Salt Lake City
Here are my two bowler hats:

LGMkl8r.jpg


(an album of futher images is here)

The left is the vintage bowler I posted earlier, and the right is my wool bowler from Meyer Hats.

I'd like to change the brim of the vintage one to a deeper side curl.
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
It's most likely German or Austrian. I haven't come across any special felt / finishes Melone in my size. They are very rare. Where was it listed? If you have a chance please post it in the German - Austrian thread.
 
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Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
That's fantastic, ofcoursemyhorse! I'd like to know more about the finish, too. Is it a gray heather felt, because that's what it looks like.

Brad
 

ofcoursemyhorse

Practically Family
Messages
859
Location
United States
Will do Mayser, I saw it listed on ebay germany. Bard, you are correct sir, it was listed a grey with special finish and a hard shell. Without a doubt one most awesome bowlers i've seen in a while. If it was anywhere near my size i'd be all over it.
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
I am pretty sure Robert Hanisch was the shop that sold it. The building is gone but there are some old buildings around it that survived. My guess is that was made in Germany (probably right around Berlin since there were so many factories in the general area, Guben, ect.) and it has some Wool content. I can't see any company markings but that isn't unusual.
 

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