newturnofphrase
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 251
- Location
- Canada
-
The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
The Bowler or Derby Hat
- Thread starter carter
- Start date
Featured products
-
Alden 403 Moc Toe Boot - Brown Chromexcel - $680 The classic "Indy" style Alden Boot in the classic Horween brown Chromexcel. -
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - #395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. -
Himel Bros. - The Ross Mk. 1 Leather Jacket Classic D-pocket motorcycle/aviator style jacket.
newturnofphrase
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 251
- Location
- Canada
Perhaps a bunch of empty boxes?
EggHead
Practically Family
- Messages
- 858
- Location
- San Francisco, CA
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
You mean coneyfur I think
bowlerman
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,294
- Location
- South Dakota
awesome...
- Messages
- 15,083
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
I was thinking... ventilated derbies with lights inside might be nice.
Burkhardt Bros. Co. HartLee Derby
A well worn derby from Burkhardt Bros. Co. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Un-tapered sides with a gently rounded crown. Very substantial and stiff felt, with a thick leather sweatband taped at the rear. Possibly refurbished at one time based upon the liner having re-applied monogram letters and the sweatband having what appears to be old stitching reinforced by adhesive. Ostensibly size 7-1/2, it is unfortunately slightly too narrow for me to wear properly or comfortably.
Crown: 5-1/2".
Ribbon: 1-1/4".
Brim: 2-1/8".
Sweatband: 2".
A well worn derby from Burkhardt Bros. Co. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Un-tapered sides with a gently rounded crown. Very substantial and stiff felt, with a thick leather sweatband taped at the rear. Possibly refurbished at one time based upon the liner having re-applied monogram letters and the sweatband having what appears to be old stitching reinforced by adhesive. Ostensibly size 7-1/2, it is unfortunately slightly too narrow for me to wear properly or comfortably.
Crown: 5-1/2".
Ribbon: 1-1/4".
Brim: 2-1/8".
Sweatband: 2".
Crofut & Knapp Derby, Special Quality
Crofut & Knapp Derby, ca. 1910s-1920s. Felt is of Summer weight and somewhat flexible, with a high, 5-1/2"+, rounded crown accentuated by a narrower ribbon. Quality trimmings all around, with a soft and supple sweatband, making for a very comfortable fit.
Crown: 5-1/2" as indicated by the tag, but closer to 6" as I measure.
Ribbon: 15/16".
Brim: 1-15/16" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".
Additional discussion on this derby in the Crofut & Knapp Tales.
Crofut & Knapp Derby, ca. 1910s-1920s. Felt is of Summer weight and somewhat flexible, with a high, 5-1/2"+, rounded crown accentuated by a narrower ribbon. Quality trimmings all around, with a soft and supple sweatband, making for a very comfortable fit.
Crown: 5-1/2" as indicated by the tag, but closer to 6" as I measure.
Ribbon: 15/16".
Brim: 1-15/16" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".
Additional discussion on this derby in the Crofut & Knapp Tales.
Mallory Aristocrat Derby
An Aristocrat Quality Derby. United Hatters stamp, rolled sweatband with taped rear seam and earlier, black cloth size tag. Moderately full proportions with a tall, very slightly tapered and rounded crown. Though tagged as 7-3/8, it is dimensionally identical to my size 7-1/2 derbys.
Crown: 5-1/2".
RIbbon: 1-1/2".
Brim: 2-1/8" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".
An Aristocrat Quality Derby. United Hatters stamp, rolled sweatband with taped rear seam and earlier, black cloth size tag. Moderately full proportions with a tall, very slightly tapered and rounded crown. Though tagged as 7-3/8, it is dimensionally identical to my size 7-1/2 derbys.
Crown: 5-1/2".
RIbbon: 1-1/2".
Brim: 2-1/8" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".
Stetson Select Quality Derby
A Summer weight, ventilated Select Quality Derby. Rolled sweatband with taped rear seam. Crown is of modest height and is straight and un-tapered, with a flat top, creating a very pronounced, rectangular profile.
Crown: 5".
Ribbon: 1-1/8".
Brim: 2-1/4" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 1-7/8".
A Summer weight, ventilated Select Quality Derby. Rolled sweatband with taped rear seam. Crown is of modest height and is straight and un-tapered, with a flat top, creating a very pronounced, rectangular profile.
Crown: 5".
Ribbon: 1-1/8".
Brim: 2-1/4" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 1-7/8".
Derby Comparison
Top, oblique view of, from L to R, Mallory Aristocrat, C&K Special Quality, and Stetson Select Quality. Note the significant differences in crown height and shape, as well as brim width and curl.
Frontal view illustrating the differences in brim curl and crown shape. The Mallory Aristocrat to the left represents a compromise between the taller crowned and more highly curled narrow brim of the C&K Special Qualityin the center, and the lower, taperless, flat crowed and flatter curled, wider brimmed Stetson Select Quality to the right.
Frontal quater view further demonstrating the differences in crown shape and taper.
Top, oblique view of, from L to R, Mallory Aristocrat, C&K Special Quality, and Stetson Select Quality. Note the significant differences in crown height and shape, as well as brim width and curl.
Frontal view illustrating the differences in brim curl and crown shape. The Mallory Aristocrat to the left represents a compromise between the taller crowned and more highly curled narrow brim of the C&K Special Qualityin the center, and the lower, taperless, flat crowed and flatter curled, wider brimmed Stetson Select Quality to the right.
Frontal quater view further demonstrating the differences in crown shape and taper.
- Messages
- 17,515
- Location
- Maryland
Al, Fantastic sequence of Derbies! The side by side comparison shots are excellent + informative.
- Messages
- 15,083
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
Al, I'm worried... very worried (and agree with Steve's post above.)
The Wiser Hatter
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,765
- Location
- Louisville, Ky
Great Pictures Al showing the different types of derby's.
- Messages
- 17,515
- Location
- Maryland
Brüder Böhm Wien Melone, 58cm.
Hut-Schick Wien Melone, measures about 59cm.
Hut-Schick Wien Melone, measures about 59cm.
Steve: I appreciate your kind remarks, thank you. Love your Brüder Böhm Melone. Can you clarify why the name used is 'Brüder' versus 'Gebrüder'? An expedient contraction, perhaps? Your Hut-Schick Melone is incredible as well.
Alan: Thanks, and no need to worry, my friend. Many others here are more severely afflicted with this incurable malady than me. lol
Ed: Thank you, and I am guessing the old Mallory is your favorite of the bunch.
Chasseur: I am hoping that you are size ≤7-1/4 or ≥7-3/4! lol Thanks for your kind words.
Alan: Thanks, and no need to worry, my friend. Many others here are more severely afflicted with this incurable malady than me. lol
Ed: Thank you, and I am guessing the old Mallory is your favorite of the bunch.
Chasseur: I am hoping that you are size ≤7-1/4 or ≥7-3/4! lol Thanks for your kind words.
Last edited:
