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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Maybe if I could find one with a taller crown and wider brim. Both mine are very similar in measurements.

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It would also look better if I lost some weight and my face wasn’t so round.

In the vintage market I’ll probably never find a wide brim and tall crown version, and I don’t like the style enough to commission a custom.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Central Texas
Maybe if I could find one with a taller crown and wider brim. Both mine are very similar in measurements.

View attachment 405864 View attachment 405865 View attachment 405866

It would also look better if I lost some weight and my face wasn’t so round.

In the vintage market I’ll probably never find a wide brim and tall crown version, and I don’t like the style enough to commission a custom.
You might consider the "western" look. This is one of Rick's that I simply adore. I think it would look good on you.

1b1Ujy5.jpg
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

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Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

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"J / Special" Sweatband

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Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

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Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

51909503510_07483ba286_h.jpg


51908878746_6844778b49_h.jpg


51907901872_f6ced1fe9d_h.jpg


51909190469_7197b5f3bb_h.jpg


51908959593_e5dafb2753_h.jpg


51909188089_a760a94a23_h.jpg


Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

51907944338_3348eb9581_h.jpg


"J / Special" Sweatband

51908865336_0262825ab4_h.jpg


Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

51908861756_00b730f180_h.jpg


Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

51908957813_d7b309bb5a_h.jpg
A German product of excellent quality indeed, Steve.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
A German product of excellent quality indeed, Steve.
Steve, Thanks again. I think it came out of the JHS Ratibor / Ratiboř Silesia, Germany factory but highly possible it wasn't completely made there. There isn't detailed information (probably for obvious reasons) on how they handled the post WWI Czechoslovakian export restrictions. The JHS Ratibor factory was definitely a reaction to the restrictions ( I have that information).
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Central Texas
Another beauty, indeed.

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

51909503510_07483ba286_h.jpg


51908878746_6844778b49_h.jpg


51907901872_f6ced1fe9d_h.jpg


51909190469_7197b5f3bb_h.jpg


51908959593_e5dafb2753_h.jpg


51909188089_a760a94a23_h.jpg


Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

51907944338_3348eb9581_h.jpg


"J / Special" Sweatband

51908865336_0262825ab4_h.jpg


Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

51908861756_00b730f180_h.jpg


Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

51908957813_d7b309bb5a_h.jpg
 
Messages
12,018
Location
East of Los Angeles
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I like the looks of both of these hats, but at a glance I would not at all have thought they were Bowlers and once I got either of them in my hot little hands I'd ruin them by creasing the crowns. :eek:


I don’t know about Ricks hat, but my Akubra Grazier is not a bowler. It is a soft open crown felt that most owners, according to the photos I’ve found, shape as a pork pie. I just left it open crown. The crown is too low for me to crease it and end up with a look I like. I’ve thought about shellacking it, but I’ll probably sell it as it’s a tight 61cm.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Mayser "Grosser Preis" / M. Mertés Hutfabrik, Jnh. Max Hecht Nürnberg 8 , measures 58.5 cm, possibly late 1920s early 1930s (this based on a February 3, 1932 Newspaper Sweatband Spacer). This one is difficult to date because of the non matching Liner and Sweatband plus no Paper Label. I tend to think it was made by Mayser Ulm based on the construction, components and Felt are of very high quality. I have collected some information but have to do more research. It's rare to find a Mélange Stiff Felt. I believe this is Fur Felt because of the very soft hand but it might have some Wool in the mix. The Mélange is mostly different shades of Gray maybe a tinge of Red other unknown Colors. The Finish is some what roughly clipped so Flamand Velour like. This is one of my better recent finds. As I mentioned it's difficult / rare to find this type of Stiff Felt.

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Nowhere near the quality of Steve's (@mayserwegener) bowler, but still interesting.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.
aerator bowler_1.jpg

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aerator bowler_8.jpg

aerator bowler_9.jpg
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Nowhere near the quality of Steve's (@mayserwegener) bowler, but still interesting.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.
aerator bowler_1.jpg

aerator bowler_2.jpg

aerator bowler_3.jpg

aerator bowler_4.jpg

aerator bowler_5.jpg

aerator bowler_6.jpg

aerator bowler_7.jpg

aerator bowler_8.jpg

aerator bowler_9.jpg
Stefan, Great find! Very tight Brim work. Also fantastic looking sweatband. I have an old JHS Stiff Felt that has a Crown Tip Patch plus Liner. I only discovered it because the Liner was loose. Not saying that is the case here but it might be a possibility.
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Stefan, Great find! Very tight Brim work. Also fantastic looking sweatband. I have an old JHS Stiff Felt that has a Crown Tip Patch plus Liner. I only discovered it because the Liner was loose. Not saying that is the case here but it might be a possibility.
Thank you, Steve. I don't think that's the case here, since the liner is completely different from the crown patch.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
J. Hückel´s Söhne "Elastic", 57.5 cm, 118 grams. possibly mid 1920s to early 1930s. This is a Ladies Stiff Felt Riding Hat but since it's a JHS + very unique I decided to pick it up. It appears to be entirely original and in NOS condition. The Black smooth finished Felt is the same as a Men's JHS "Elastic" Stiff Felt. The 4.5 cm Brim is not curled and has downward flange with a thin Binding. The Grosgrain Sweatband with padded which is stitched in with a X pattern. The Bow is on the left side like Men's Hats. There is also has a long fabric Strap which you see on some Ladies Hats. I couldn't find a paper label so maybe this was custom made by JHS. Definitely a very unique piece for my museum. :)

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