The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Mean Eyed Matt]

To put it mildly:
probably the little cousin in shape and age
of Steve's fantastic 1900 Habig Bowler...
J. Hückel's Söhne Melone/Bowler/Derby
This stiff felt is really rather semi-stiff:
Completely dented by shipping ,
but easily recovered thanks to this fact.
It comes with a wind cord & strongly bent up side brim.
The sweat has no print and is quite simple (but still soft);
the black lining with the gold logo is what drew me to it.
As far as the age is concerned, I'm a little unsure:
The shape reminds me a lot of Steve's Habig;
I didn't find this JHS label in his list so far...
Nevertheless, I think: pre WWI - maybe 1900s!?

 

[steur]

To put it mildly:
probably the little cousin in shape and age
of Steve's fantastic 1900 Habig Bowler...
J. Hückel's Söhne Melone/Bowler/Derby
This stiff felt is really rather semi-stiff:
Completely dented by shipping ,
but easily recovered thanks to this fact.
It comes with a wind cord & strongly bent up side brim.
The sweat has no print and is quite simple (but still soft);
the black lining with the gold logo is what drew me to it.
As far as the age is concerned, I'm a little unsure:
The shape reminds me a lot of Steve's Habig;
I didn't find this JHS label in his list so far...
Nevertheless, I think: pre WWI - maybe 1900s!?

Wonderful find, Matt. Congrats.

 

[Steve1857]

A wonderful find, Matt. I really love the classic Bowler brim curves.

To put it mildly:
probably the little cousin in shape and age
of Steve's fantastic 1900 Habig Bowler...
J. Hückel's Söhne Melone/Bowler/Derby
This stiff felt is really rather semi-stiff:
Completely dented by shipping ,
but easily recovered thanks to this fact.
It comes with a wind cord & strongly bent up side brim.
The sweat has no print and is quite simple (but still soft);
the black lining with the gold logo is what drew me to it.
As far as the age is concerned, I'm a little unsure:
The shape reminds me a lot of Steve's Habig;
I didn't find this JHS label in his list so far...
Nevertheless, I think: pre WWI - maybe 1900s!?

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your compliments!

 

[mayserwegener]

To put it mildly:
probably the little cousin in shape and age
of Steve's fantastic 1900 Habig Bowler...
J. Hückel's Söhne Melone/Bowler/Derby
This stiff felt is really rather semi-stiff:
Completely dented by shipping ,
but easily recovered thanks to this fact.
It comes with a wind cord & strongly bent up side brim.
The sweat has no print and is quite simple (but still soft);
the black lining with the gold logo is what drew me to it.
As far as the age is concerned, I'm a little unsure:
The shape reminds me a lot of Steve's Habig;
I didn't find this JHS label in his list so far...
Nevertheless, I think: pre WWI - maybe 1900s!?

Matt, Super find! I think you are correct that is from the same time period as my P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix Paris". The paper label has the JHS crest in the upper left corner like one of the labels (it has a separate Cell label) in Garrett's old JSH "Loutre" Soft Felt.

 

[mayserwegener]

St. Veit (Sankt Veit), 58 cm, Wool Felt, possibly early 1930s. There isn't a company mark but the paper label has a Sheep with a St. Veit Banner. Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse is a small town in the South East corner of Austria and I couldn't find any Felt Hat production in the town. My guess is this is the source of the Wool used for the Felt. The Stiff Felt Hat was sold by a shop (Ludovikus Hagens Wwe) in a small town (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) in the upper North West corner of Austria. The Wool Felt has a nice finish and is in very good condition. The Stiff Felt has great looking Silver Gray Liner with a sharp looking Bow design.

Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Wwe = Widow of)

Handwriting on the Sweatband which I will have to take a closer look at.

Sheep With St. Veit (Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse) Banner

Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) was located in the front of this house. Photo from 1908.

Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen passed away in 1929.

Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen wife 1. Sophie (Wwe, Widow) was owner of the shop when the Stiff Felt was sold.

 

[Rmccamey]

Another beauty for your collection.

St. Veit (Sankt Veit), 58 cm, Wool Felt, possibly early 1930s. There isn't a company mark but the paper label has a Sheep with a St. Veit Banner. Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse is a small town in the South East corner of Austria and I couldn't find any Felt Hat production in the town. My guess is this is the source of the Wool used for the Felt. The Stiff Felt Hat was sold by a shop (Ludovikus Hagens Wwe) in a small town (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) in the upper North West corner of Austria. The Wool Felt has a nice finish and is in very good condition. The Stiff Felt has great looking Silver Gray Liner with a sharp looking Bow design.

Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Wwe = Widow of)

Handwriting on the Sweatband which I will have to take a closer look at.

Sheep With St. Veit (Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse) Banner

Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) was located in the front of this house. Photo from 1908.

Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen passed away in 1929.

Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen wife 1. Sophie (Wwe, Widow) was owner of the shop when the Stiff Felt was sold.

 

[JJ Katz]

Does any contemporary brand make a nice brown derby/bowler with a curved brim?

 

[mayserwegener]

Another beauty for your collection.

Randy, Thanks! Another one.

 

[Rmccamey]

Mike at Northwest Hats makes an excellent modern derby with a brim curl that very nearly approximates the old style D'Orsay curl. Mike can make a custom derby using most any of the modern felt colors available. Here is my Granite gray.

Does any contemporary brand make a nice brown derby/bowler with a curved brim?

 

[JJ Katz]

Thanks for that.

 

[Redfokker]

Mike at Northwest Hats makes an excellent modern derby with a brim curl that very nearly approximates the old style D'Orsay curl. Mike can make a custom derby using most any of the modern felt colors available. Here is my Granite gray. View attachment 363003 View attachment 363005 View attachment 363006

I'm thinking of having Mike do me a navy derby with a pronounced curl. I need a period 1870s stiff felt for historical society events.

 

[Rmccamey]

Definitely give him a call. He has recently acquired a "better" block (I assume that means more period correct...in size 1/8). I should have a sample to show off in a few weeks.

I'm thinking of having Mike do me a navy derby with a pronounced curl. I need a period 1870s stiff felt for historical society events.

 

[Redfokker]

Definitely give him a call. He has recently acquired a "better" block (I assume that means more period correct...in size 1/8). I should have a sample to show off in a few weeks.

I am lucky to be just down the road about 45 minutes from Eugene. I try to get in on a regular basis. Sometimes I order a hat, and others, just visit. I do get to see everyone's hats from time to time. I fondle as many as I can.

 

[steur]

Recent find.
Crosby and Company bowler. Size 7 1/2 (60) with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at about 12,5cm, which is slightly lower than usual. Pre-war, made for Kaufman. Great hand to the felt. A few loose stitches, but in great shape.

 

[Steve1857]

Recent find.
Crosby and Company bowler. Size 7 1/2 (60) with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at about 12,5cm, which is slightly lower than usual. Pre-war, made for Kaufman. Great hand to the felt. A few loose stitches, but in great shape.

View attachment 369737 View attachment 369738 View attachment 369739 View attachment 369740 View attachment 369741 View attachment 369742 View attachment 369743 View attachment 369744 View attachment 369745 View attachment 369746

Nice find, Stefan. I don't think I've seen that maker before. American I presume.

 

[Blare]

Recent find.
Crosby and Company bowler. Size 7 1/2 (60) with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at about 12,5cm, which is slightly lower than usual. Pre-war, made for Kaufman. Great hand to the felt. A few loose stitches, but in great shape.

View attachment 369737 View attachment 369738 View attachment 369739 View attachment 369740 View attachment 369741 View attachment 369742 View attachment 369743 View attachment 369744 View attachment 369745 View attachment 369746

Beautiful bowler Stefan

 

[steur]

Nice find, Stefan. I don't think I've seen that maker before. American I presume.

Beautiful bowler Stefan

Steve, Joe, thank you. It is indeed American. A colleague of mine is moving and needed to get rid of some stuff. This one came up. Quite a surprise, but why not?

 

[PanosChris]

Thought to join the club for a moment

 

[Steve1857]

Thought to join the club for a moment
View attachment 375554

Stay a while longer, buddy. Pull up a chair, take a drink, and tell us about the hat