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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Mm25

One Too Many
Messages
1,020
Just let it grow & morph into whatever you like. I've gone from rounded to a box, & now to a Victorian taper but I could really use the help of a Victorian beardsmith.

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Awesome beard!!! I’m currently still working from home due to COVID. When I return, unfortunately, I will have to shave or at least seriously trim mine back. In the meantime, I’ll see what I can grow out. Only at 4 mounts now.
 
Messages
18,209
Great performance!
Thanks Matt!

Awesome beard!!! I’m currently still working from home due to COVID. When I return, unfortunately, I will have to shave or at least seriously trim mine back.
Don't know where you work but it looks good for 4 months!

You can't see the length but this was Saint Patrick's Day 2019 when it was trimmed in a box.

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Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Thanks Matt!


Don't know where you work but it looks good for 4 months!

You can't see the length but this was Saint Patrick's Day 2019 when it was trimmed in a box.

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Do you coincidentally listen to Texas Blues Rock? :cool:
I would say that ZZ Top would be the first association
of all my acquaintances, if they see your amazing pictures...
Really simply great, Jack!
 
Messages
11,713
In my online searching I found this hat and it intrigued me enough to grab some screenshots of the seller’s photos just to document the hat. It was new to me anyway.

Besse-Boeker Co. Of Providence Rhode Island.
The Besse System. Won’t Blow Off
Astoria


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I love the detail on the leather sweatband.
Very cool... the detail on the sweat.. and the ornate initials
 
Messages
11,713
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Chase and Company Derby
About 5 inch crown
Dimensional D'orsay Curl Brim
About 2 inch front 1 3/4 sides to curl (2 1/2 total)
1 inch grosgrain ribbon with frayed bow trail

This bowler was a brand I have not heard of before... but since I recently got an old beat up Mallory that had a lot of let’s call it character with all its frayed bindings and such I thought it would be nice to have an old bowler with a nice tight d'orsay curl brim. This Chase and co of New Haven, CT for just twenty bucks shipped rang the bell perfectly. The hat over all is in pretty nice shape. One pin hole moth divot in the top of the crown along with a couple small soft spots. A little white stain near the base of the crown I suspect might be a sweat stain... will see if that can clean up. A few popped stitches on the sweat.. but otherwise fairly clean. The sweat is soft malleable and very comfortable. I really like the liner and the sweat imprint. I have no idea on dating for this... other than to say it looks at least 50s or older. Right out the box it’s accompanying me for... well whatever tonight is bringing.

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Messages
18,209
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Chase and Company Derby
About 5 inch crown
Dimensional D'orsay Curl Brim
About 2 inch front 1 3/4 sides to curl (2 1/2 total)
1 inch grosgrain ribbon with frayed bow trail

This bowler was a brand I have not heard of before... but since I recently got an old beat up Mallory that had a lot of let’s call it character with all its frayed bindings and such I thought it would be nice to have an old bowler with a nice tight d'orsay curl brim. This Chase and co of New Haven, CT for just twenty bucks shipped rang the bell perfectly. The hat over all is in pretty nice shape. One pin hole moth divot in the top of the crown along with a couple small soft spots. A little white stain near the base of the crown I suspect might be a sweat stain... will see if that can clean up. A few popped stitches on the sweat.. but otherwise fairly clean. The sweat is soft malleable and very comfortable. I really like the liner and the sweat imprint. I have no idea on dating for this... other than to say it looks at least 50s or older. Right out the box it’s accompanying me for... well whatever tonight is bringing.

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I think a black derby always looks good with a black shirt, especially a Henley, a mock turtleneck or full turtleneck in the winter.
 
Messages
11,713
I think a black derby always looks good with a black shirt, especially a Henley, a mock turtleneck or full turtleneck in the winter.
Henley... So that is what that style is called. I’ve always been partial to that three or four button sort of baseball shirt look.
 
Messages
18,209
Henley... So that is what that style is called. I’ve always been partial to that three or four button sort of baseball shirt look.
Sort of like a knit golf shirt without the collar. Long beardsmen prefer shirts without pointed or button down collars. You can take a Henley & dress it up or dress it down. You can take a light gray or white Henley, tuck it inside your jeans & make it look like a long john top. I've never tried red for the union suit look though.
 
Messages
11,713
Sort of like a knit golf shirt without the collar. Long beardsmen prefer shirts without pointed or button down collars. You can take a Henley & dress it up or dress it down. You can take a light gray or white Henley, tuck it inside your jeans & make it look like a long john top. I've never tried red for the union suit look though.
Yes... I do have a few of this style shirt in short and long sleeve. The long sleeve one I had thought on occasion gave the long Johns vibe . But I do really like the style
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,857
Location
Denmark
Nice find, Joe. It's got a lot going for for it, especially the liner and colourful tip logo.

Looks good on you too, btw.

View attachment 336513

Chase and Company Derby
About 5 inch crown
Dimensional D'orsay Curl Brim
About 2 inch front 1 3/4 sides to curl (2 1/2 total)
1 inch grosgrain ribbon with frayed bow trail

This bowler was a brand I have not heard of before... but since I recently got an old beat up Mallory that had a lot of let’s call it character with all its frayed bindings and such I thought it would be nice to have an old bowler with a nice tight d'orsay curl brim. This Chase and co of New Haven, CT for just twenty bucks shipped rang the bell perfectly. The hat over all is in pretty nice shape. One pin hole moth divot in the top of the crown along with a couple small soft spots. A little white stain near the base of the crown I suspect might be a sweat stain... will see if that can clean up. A few popped stitches on the sweat.. but otherwise fairly clean. The sweat is soft malleable and very comfortable. I really like the liner and the sweat imprint. I have no idea on dating for this... other than to say it looks at least 50s or older. Right out the box it’s accompanying me for... well whatever tonight is bringing.

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Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
View attachment 336513

Chase and Company Derby
About 5 inch crown
Dimensional D'orsay Curl Brim
About 2 inch front 1 3/4 sides to curl (2 1/2 total)
1 inch grosgrain ribbon with frayed bow trail

This bowler was a brand I have not heard of before... but since I recently got an old beat up Mallory that had a lot of let’s call it character with all its frayed bindings and such I thought it would be nice to have an old bowler with a nice tight d'orsay curl brim. This Chase and co of New Haven, CT for just twenty bucks shipped rang the bell perfectly. The hat over all is in pretty nice shape. One pin hole moth divot in the top of the crown along with a couple small soft spots. A little white stain near the base of the crown I suspect might be a sweat stain... will see if that can clean up. A few popped stitches on the sweat.. but otherwise fairly clean. The sweat is soft malleable and very comfortable. I really like the liner and the sweat imprint. I have no idea on dating for this... other than to say it looks at least 50s or older. Right out the box it’s accompanying me for... well whatever tonight is bringing.

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Joe, Great looking Stiff Felt! Also great condition!
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
House rules are strict on adding new black derbies... has to be clean, has to fit and it has to have a third thing of some sort. Finding a good candidate at the flea market usually qualifies if the price is fair. Here is an early depression era Select Quality (LOT66XX) sold at Buffalo's storied The Kleinhans - a hat that never left town. Comfort Fit sweatband angles away from the hat body at its turned edge and gives a little suspension spring - it is very comfortable to wear. Wind cord button is present and sewn to the hat. The ends of the cord remain but the cord itself was cut at some point.

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Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
House rules are strict on adding new black derbies... has to be clean, has to fit and it has to have a third thing of some sort. Finding a good candidate at the flea market usually qualifies if the price is fair. Here is an early depression era Select Quality (LOT66XX) sold at Buffalo's storied The Kleinhans - a hat that never left town. Comfort Fit sweatband angles away from the hat body at its turned edge and gives a little suspension spring - it is very comfortable to wear. Wind cord button is present and sewn to the hat. The ends of the cord remain but the cord itself was cut at some point.

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Excellent find, Alan. Bowlers are the hats that can frequently be found in like new condition, maybe because they were so ubiquitous. I wonder why they added a wind cord to it in the first place; if any hat is perfect in windy conditions it's a bowler.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,857
Location
Denmark
Super find Alan. As Stefan mentions, interesting that a Bowler has a wind cord, especially one with that type of sweatband.

House rules are strict on adding new black derbies... has to be clean, has to fit and it has to have a third thing of some sort. Finding a good candidate at the flea market usually qualifies if the price is fair. Here is an early depression era Select Quality (LOT66XX) sold at Buffalo's storied The Kleinhans - a hat that never left town. Comfort Fit sweatband angles away from the hat body at its turned edge and gives a little suspension spring - it is very comfortable to wear. Wind cord button is present and sewn to the hat. The ends of the cord remain but the cord itself was cut at some point.

select_derby_1.jpg


select_derby_2.jpg


select_derby_3.jpg


select_derby_4.jpg


select_derby_5.jpg


select_derby_6.jpg


select_derby_7.jpg


select_derby_8.jpg


select_derby_9.jpg
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Excellent find, Alan. Bowlers are the hats that can frequently be found in like new condition, maybe because they were so ubiquitous. I wonder why they added a wind cord to it in the first place; if any hat is perfect in windy conditions it's a bowler.

Indeed, there seems to be no shortage of pristine stiff hats - especially for our small heads. Moths seem to avoid them too. The wind cord is an odd addition. I don't see another in my dozen some odd derby collection. I've wondered when these do-dads made their way onto the hat - did they come that way from the factory or could they be added at the brand store by request? Definitely superfluous on a stiff hat - the clipper ship of felts.
 

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