The Bowler or Derby Hat

[DaveProc]

Stetson 1900 Phoenix, Arizona

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Stetson 1900 Phoenix, Arizona
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This be it, with a Fray sweat.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

What do you suppose the brim width is on the HOW Derby? I'm wondering if a black CD could be a good candidate? The 6" crown is a little more rounding & the brim binding a bit more narrow. The ribbon can always be changed. I'm wondering if the 2-3/4 brim would look proportionally the same or not?

 

[DaveProc]

1896/97

 

[DaveProc]

1896/97

 

[DaveProc]

1894

 

[DaveProc]

1894

 

[DaveProc]

This be it, with a Fray sweat.

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SWEEEEEEET!!!

 

[DaveProc]

1898

 

[DaveProc]

1898

 

[DaveProc]

Roelofs 1898

 

[DaveProc]

Sigler 1898

 

[DaveProc]

1909

 

[DaveProc]

Hawes von Gal 1909

 

[DaveProc]

Youngs 1909

 

[DaveProc]

National Hat Co. 1913

 

[Rmccamey]

Here is the coach derby I was thinking of. It looks a bit different than the pictures of Cambridge bowlers I've seen.

I always thought this was more the style of the Coachman's hat.

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I distinctly remember that scene and that hat from Hell on Wheels. A real beauty. In my experience the closest nomenclature would be a Cambridge bowler, which is blocked tall, with straight sides and a slightly flatter top over some still gently rounded shoulders. Think Odd Job, maybe?

I'll see if I can find an old photo I saved of an old ad once, and I know D Bar J Hats has offered what they call a Cambridge derby in the past. Theirs is a little shorter and has a wider brim, but basically still fits the bill.

I've come to really prefer western derbies of various blocks and dimensions, with pencil curls. My Bat Masterson from Knudsen Hats goes more than View attachment 324090 a little bit in this direction, but the HoW hat here seems to have more front and back taper in the crown, and a less pronounced pencil roll. It is a really stunning hat that they make, but looks almost nothing like the famous Bat Masterson hat from the old photos.

I bet Mike Moore at Buckaroo Hatters would be able to recreate exactly that, if you wanted him to. My Buckaroo Hatters derby is outstanding. It is a little lower crowned and more gently pencil rolled than most, which is what I asked for, and I love it, but he has a huge repertoire.

David Torres at Texas Hatters makes some of the best western hats in the business, and although they are not inexpensive, the turnaround time is quick and customer service is great, in my experience. I am positive he could recreate this one as well.

Knudsen Bat Masterson pictured. Mine is western weight wool, and the crown has settled a bit over time. I'd definitely buy it again in a fur felt.

 

[DaveProc]

Here is the coach derby I was thinking of. It looks a bit different than the pictures of Cambridge bowlers I've seen.

View attachment 324834

 

[DaveProc]

Frank Schoble 1910

 

[DaveProc]

Hawes von Gal 1910