The BORSALINO BROTHERHOOD

[besdor]

In those years Borsalino had almost 3000 workers in the factory. Thats a lot of wages to pay!!!

 

[mayserwegener]

In those years Borsalino had almost 3000 workers in the factory. Thats a lot of wages to pay!!!

The testimony by the United Hatters of North American rep (Michael F. Green) is amusing.

Side Note:

I think it's best to read the entire testimony (second link). Major Hat Making Countries were extremely protective on their domestic markets so it wasn't just the United States.

 

[moontheloon]

Bill & Caldwell were the importers for Borsalino in America. The following are transcripts of their testimony at Fur Felt Hats Tariff, Readjustment (U.S. Congress) hearings of 1929. The total imports for 1927 Men's Fur Felt Hats were 28,500 dozen which made up only about 1% of the United States Men's Fur Felt Hat Market so very tiny. Regardless the American Fur Felt Hat Industry wanted to increase tariffs. Italy had 18,000 dozen of the 28,000 dozen and most were from Borsalino (reason for Bill & Caldwell and others testimonies of the behalf of Borsalino).

Fur Felt Hats Tariff, Readjustment 1929 (U.S. Congress) (Scroll down to "Statement of J.G. Whitelaw, ....")

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=umn.31951d03546986e;view=1up;seq=856

You might want read the entire hearing from the beginning. It's pretty interesting with some funny exchanges. The hearing also includes Women's Fur Felt Hats (a larger number, 94,825 dozen) which were largely Velours from Austria and Czechoslovakia.

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=umn.31951d03546986e;view=1up;seq=838

The testimony by J.G. Whitelaw representing Bill & Caldwell is interesting. He mentions the selling point for Borsalinos was their light weight but the tariffs were making them 2 to 4 dollars ($12.00) more than equal price point American hats ($8.00) so this making them too expensive and impacting sales. He said they were 1% of the Men's Fur Felt Hats so they were no threat to the American Men's Furt Felt Industry. The counter from the U.S. side was the imports were increasing and they wanted to increase the tariff. Seems ridiculous but I guess they saw that Italy and Europe in general were not importing U.S. made Fur Felt Hats and didn't like that.

In the other parts of the hearing the very small wages being paid to Italian workers is brought up. I guess the point was that Italian companies and Borsalino in particular were making a lot of money on their hats based on the low wages they were paying their employees. The counter argument from the Borsalino side was that there were other factors driving up their costs such as fur, components (sweatbands, liners) and shipping costs. I have no idea if Borsalino / the Italian side was being totally truthful.

great stuff right there

that is the nutrients I seek

 

[Richard Morgan]

It arrived today. Pretty dirty. I've scrubbed it and will steam it tomorrow. These pictures are pre-cleaning. The pictures don't really show the dirt/stains. The puggaree ribbon is in better shape than I thought. The stitching on the brim is outstanding.

I don't understand the label.
Carla: ??? (maker? buyer?)
Elefante = elephant (color - brownish)
Faunosca = ???? (model - I think that is a sir name)

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Excellent find Bill

 

[Richard Morgan]

I think it cleaned up beautifully. This is a very lightweight felt. I was not thinking I would keep the ribbon but it is growing on me. I'm really looking forward to giving this lid a try. This makes my third vintage Borsalino and I'm hooked.

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Great clean up Bill, every thing about that hat is just super.

 

[65 Classic]

I think it cleaned up beautifully. This is a very lightweight felt. I was not thinking I would keep the ribbon but it is growing on me. I'm really looking forward to giving this lid a try. This makes my third vintage Borsalino and I'm hooked.

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Love that Borso with the brim spoiler! Very nice.

 

[65 Classic]

I think that pre WW2 , the variety of colors that were worn were not as varied as the selection that Borsalino showed after the war. There were more offerings of colors as time went by. Today the variety of colors that the company make is vast but the quality is not what it was.

After WWII the fashion industry took off by advertising in mags and presenting the "seasonal" wardrobe must haves. The public was ready for this.

 

[mayserwegener]

After WWII the fashion industry took off by advertising in mags and presenting the "seasonal" wardrobe must haves. The public was ready for this.

I haven't seen a list of available colors or felt sample cards (also fur content) for Borsalino. I would be interested in seeing what was available up to 1960 but mostly up to 1945 (the Borsalino Museum might have these). I haven't been able to find anything like this for any German or Austrian hat company. For example this J. Heinr. ITA Wien catalog (from probably around WWI) of mine mentions more than 300 colors available (see photos below). The problem I don't have the felt sample cards mentioned and also the price lists are missing from the catalog.

From my experience WWII and older German and Austrian Soft Felt hats with the most unique colors are Velours. Fur Felt was much more difficult to dye compared to Wool (larger color palette). I have a lot of information on my website about this topic (the Color Dye industry was mostly German and Swiss /Basel).

Link to the entire catalog.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...c/11-j-heinr-heinrich-ita-hutfabrik/#entry947

 

[moehawk]

Part II
Fritz Mayer still exists today (under a different name though).

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Now THAT is what I call a good day thrifting!
They are all great pieces but that last one is astonishing!

 

[Tonio]

Borsalino Bombetta. This one appears to have once been a sample has as indicated by the tag "campione". The lettering in the liner has a very interesting rainbow effect to it.

I posted this elsewhere however here is a link to the homburg I rescued last year with the same sample tag: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-borsalino-brotherhood.13133/page-259

 

[steur]

It arrived today. Pretty dirty. I've scrubbed it and will steam it tomorrow. These pictures are pre-cleaning. The pictures don't really show the dirt/stains. The puggaree ribbon is in better shape than I thought. The stitching on the brim is outstanding.

I don't understand the label.
Carla: ??? (maker? buyer?)
Elefante = elephant (color - brownish)
Faunosca = ???? (model - I think that is a sir name)

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Beautiful hat, Bill. That's a winner. Never seen a Borsalino in the colour Carla before.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Super + interesting! Do you think it could have been modified?

Steve, thank you. I don't think so. The hat looks almost new and if it wasn't for the initials on the sweatband I would have thought is was NOS. Everything on it looks like it was designed to be lightweight and airy.

 

[steur]

Now THAT is what I call a good day thrifting!
They are all great pieces but that last one is astonishing!

John, thank you. With a hat this thin and light I would no longer need a straw hat (especially given the Dutch summers).

 

[steur]

Borsalino Bombetta. This one appears to have once been a sample has as indicated by the tag "campione". The lettering in the liner has a very interesting rainbow effect to it.

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I posted this elsewhere however here is a link to the homburg I rescued last year with the same sample tag: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-borsalino-brotherhood.13133/page-259

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Great find, Tonio. That really is a spectacular liner!

 

[steur]

This one came in today. Borsalino in the colour Radium (first time I've seen that colour) and designation Debrosan. Size 59, stitched brim at 6,5cm and crown 11 cm at the pinch. The brim is stitched an additional 3 times. Onionskin/oilskin covering of the liner tip and a very special pleated/folded ribbon. According to the seller it was bought in 1950 (by his grandfather). This holds up because I found the minutes of a meeting behind the sweatband with a 1951 date on it. This one will go to its Italian home country to Daniele.

 

[moehawk]

John, thank you. With a hat this thin and light I would no longer need a straw hat (especially given the Dutch summers).

Even so, that Dunlap Panama is still available for trade!

 

[steur]

Even so, that Dunlap Panama is still available for trade!

It's on my internal hard-disk, John! Just waiting for the right candidate for a trade.

 

[Redfokker]

This one came in today. Borsalino in the colour Radium (first time I've seen that colour) and designation Debrosan. Size 59, stitched brim at 6,5cm and crown 11 cm at the pinch. The brim is stitched an additional 3 times. Onionskin/oilskin covering of the liner tip and a very special pleated/folded ribbon. According to the seller it was bought in 1950 (by his grandfather). This holds up because I found the minutes of a meeting behind the sweatband with a 1951 date on it. This one will go to its Italian home country to Daniele.


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Lovely color, so creamy. And that ribbon is a joy to behold. Nice to see this one getting returned to it's homeland. Beautiful.

 

[mayserwegener]

Borsalino Bombetta. This one appears to have once been a sample has as indicated by the tag "campione". The lettering in the liner has a very interesting rainbow effect to it.

View attachment 103429 View attachment 103433 View attachment 103436 View attachment 103438 View attachment 103439

I posted this elsewhere however here is a link to the homburg I rescued last year with the same sample tag: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-borsalino-brotherhood.13133/page-259

View attachment 103445

Tonio, Super find! Is it a size 7 1/8 US or English. Does it also have a paper label behind the sweatband? Was it from a European Seller? Thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

This one came in today. Borsalino in the colour Radium (first time I've seen that colour) and designation Debrosan. Size 59, stitched brim at 6,5cm and crown 11 cm at the pinch. The brim is stitched an additional 3 times. Onionskin/oilskin covering of the liner tip and a very special pleated/folded ribbon. According to the seller it was bought in 1950 (by his grandfather). This holds up because I found the minutes of a meeting behind the sweatband with a 1951 date on it. This one will go to its Italian home country to Daniele.


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Stefan, Wow great find!