The A-1 pockets

[andyfalzon]

Then why the sole on the right boot is brand new?
The tannery has 2 colors that look very close. One is a bit darker than the other.
Look:

The real question is which of the two colors to use on the A-1

 

[handymike]

I think it was posted as Ortensia, but my $$ is on Petrolio!
Can I get samples to see? and Oliva?

 

[Boyo]

Then why the sole on the right boot is brand new?
The tannery has 2 colors that look very close. One is a bit darker than the other.
Look:

Good question.. I don't want to start a battle, as you've proven that a darker leather is produced by Badalassi....but, the image shows a boot produced by John Lofgren, his Badalassi boots are made in two colors.. Ortensia and Cognac..

I do agree that an A-1 or A-2 would look very cool and unique in either of the leathers you have displayed.

 

[ojaw]

Might as well try here first as it seems to be the closest thing to what my question entails.
Has anyone gotten or seen a modified A-1 that either has no pockets or only has upper ones? I look at the design and feel like for those of us that are more pear shaped (either with gut or, in my case, with flared out femurs) would benefit from moving those big lower units up or removing them altogether. I think it might balance things out a bit.
Opinions?

 

[handymike]

Like this?
https://www.headwindmfg.com/37j1-jacket.html

 

[ojaw]

Like this?
https://www.headwindmfg.com/37j1-jacket.html

Getting there, though I’d say the mid-chest height possibly looks worse than the more common placement! I’d say higher, smaller, and possibly only one, maybe even jetted with a flap to minimize bulk.
These opinions are obviously those of a rank (stinky) amateur, but thank you for engaging, HM.

 

[Marc mndt]

Getting there, though I’d say the mid-chest height possibly looks worse than the more common placement! I’d say higher, smaller, and possibly only one, maybe even jetted with a flap to minimize bulk.
These opinions are obviously those of a rank (stinky) amateur, but thank you for engaging, HM.

Freewheelers A1 - big pockets placed mid chest. Horsehide.

My Capeskin Eastman A1 with the pockets placed next to the bottom hem. These pockets are way too small to be functional btw. Well, they do hold a face mask but that's about it. Although I doubt whether the designers had face masks in mind when designing this jacket back in the 20s.

 

[Marc mndt]

Interesting to read back this old thread. Back then jackets were discussed in terms of 'contract accurateness': Real capeskin should have certain amounts of ribbing and pebbling and should be of a certain thickness. Pockets should be sewn through the lining because they were an afterthought. John Lever mentioned he had a horsehide BK A1 that looked wrong because the thick hide spoiled the drape of the jacket.

To me leather jackets are fashion items (those that are not solely intended for riding). I couldn't care less about their contract accurateness. As long as they are of decent quality and look cool, it's all good with me.

Looks like John's stance has changed too:

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/freewheelers-a1.21766/

 

[ojaw]

Thanks! Jacket clearly fits you well.
Again, the mid-chest placement doesn’t do the wearer any favours, yours looks better.
I have no photoshop skills so can’t makeup what I’m thinking of, but if and when I order something I’ll throw that option out to the maker and see what they think - currently considering Thedi.

 

[handymike]

Thedi has this:

 

[ojaw]

Yep, kind of thinking along those lines, torn between knit collar/hem and leather though.

 

[ojaw]

While I have you guys on the line, what are your opinions on the best collars for narrow shoulders? I've read contradictory advice viz width of lapels, with some (suit) makers claiming wider is best for narrow frames and others saying the opposite. Then there's the close knit collars of the A-1 types.

 

[handymike]

Go with this model- as is.
It looks great! My shoulders are 17.5” ish, and my favorite collars are larger. It all comes down to personal taste, but I think unless you have a tiny head, a luxurious collar is awesome.

 

[Edward]

If you're looking for milspec, go milspec; if that matters to you, it's the sort of thing that will only detract from enjoying the jacket if you make big alterations. On the other hand, if it's for purely civilian usage, why not? I quite like the look of the mid-height pockets. Reminds me of a Levis Type II. Good compromise position if you're a bigger lad like what I am currently. Pockets on the gut cam emphasise it for sure, though put them up high on the chest and if you put too much stuff in them there's a danger you can look like you have breasts as well... Nearly thirty years ago I had a British/NATO desert shirt-jacket. Sort of thing the Brits wore in Kuwait, unlined, zip-up front, with a button flap over it. Looked very cool on the shelf. I remember wearing it the day I passed my driving test. Thing is, it had big, flappy, expanding pockets on the chest. When not kept entirely flat, they really did look like I had bosoms - and I was a twig half the size I am now back then. Real Joey-Ramone build. I later dyed it blue, but the colour made no difference...

That all said, accurately-sized A1 pockets aren't in danger of over-stuffing, given there's so little as will fit in 'em!

 

[Marc mndt]

I like this one, knit hem and cuffs, leather collar.

 

[ojaw]

Go with this model- as is.
It looks great! My shoulders are 17.5” ish, and my favorite collars are larger. It all comes down to personal taste, but I think unless you have a tiny head, a luxurious collar is awesome.

See, I have shoulders that are right around 16", thus my concerns...

 

[ojaw]

If you're looking for milspec, go milspec; if that matters to you, it's the sort of thing that will only detract from enjoying the jacket if you make big alterations. On the other hand, if it's for purely civilian usage, why not? I quite like the look of the mid-height pockets. Reminds me of a Levis Type II. Good compromise position if you're a bigger lad like what I am currently. Pockets on the gut cam emphasise it for sure, though put them up high on the chest and if you put too much stuff in them there's a danger you can look like you have breasts as well... Nearly thirty years ago I had a British/NATO desert shirt-jacket. Sort of thing the Brits wore in Kuwait, unlined, zip-up front, with a button flap over it. Looked very cool on the shelf. I remember wearing it the day I passed my driving test. Thing is, it had big, flappy, expanding pockets on the chest. When not kept entirely flat, they really did look like I had bosoms - and I was a twig half the size I am now back then. Real Joey-Ramone build. I later dyed it blue, but the colour made no difference...

That all said, accurately-sized A1 pockets aren't in danger of over-stuffing, given there's so little as will fit in 'em!

Milspec definitely not required, I just want something that will look ok on me! The boob look is something to watch out for, for sure. That's the reason I'd want smaller pockets up top, or even just one demure one.

 

[ojaw]

I like this one, knit hem and cuffs, leather collar.

View attachment 358068 View attachment 358069 View attachment 358070 View attachment 358071

That's a beauty alright, is it Thedi?

 

[Marc mndt]

That's a beauty alright, is it Thedi?

It's a vintage jacket, unknown maker. I'm sure Thedi could make you something like this.

 

[ojaw]

It's a vintage jacket, unknown maker. I'm sure Thedi could make you something like this.

Oh I see, looked like some of their pre-stressing work.