The A-1 pockets

[nick123]

The overlooked message of this thread is that BK is willing to customize the jacket to how YOU want it. If you aren't keen on details like the pocket placement they would adjust, gladly.

 

[tonypaj]

The overlooked message of this thread is that BK is willing to customize the jacket to how YOU want it. If you aren't keen on details like the pocket placement they would adjust, gladly.

Yeah, kind of funny this discussion. People here complain about VLJ as being "stitch counters" and now we have arguments about nothing really, some do things like standard Kelso (e.g. Chapman and Eastman), some other way (Aero, etc.). And here we have a dude who says I'll sort it out as you want it, and people still moan.

Anyway, I have a Goodwear one, acquired from someone posting here. Nice jacket, I had to check the pockets after I started reading this thread, though. I paid no attention to them before. They are cool.

 

[Edward]

I agree that its all about personal preference. Years ago, I was a hard-core original jacket snob. I wouldn't wear a reproduction jacket of any kind, regardless of maker. In my mind there was no difference between the best Aero A-2 and a cowhide mall jacket. (GW didn't exist then. John was just one of our Mods over on the VLJ forum.) Since then I've softened my position and have come to believe that people should buy what makes them happy…even if what makes them happy doesn’t conform to original specifications.

Of course, there's still an ongoing debate as to whether there was ever a wool A-1 flight jacket. No question that a wool A-1ish jacket existed in the ‘twenties...there are photos...but it was probably not designed to be a flight jacket. That being said, and even though they may have not existed...I like wool A-1s, too. I bought one of the Spearhead versions a couple of years ago but the sleeves are way too long for me and I've yet to have them shortened. Come to think of it, that’s probably a good project for this summer before cool weather returns.

AF

Yeah, I don't think there's any evidence from which to suppose they ever really were issued in wool. Well, aside from the clearly A1-based flying instructors' jackets that Buzz Rickson have done (I don't know if those are imaginary or based in reality?). That said, I wouldn't be looking for one to wear as military wear, but rather as a civilian thing, which the wool might even be better for. It's the Spearhead I was looking at, actually - I've got a couple of pairs of trousers from them, as well as one of their Travis Bickle edition Tanker jackets (I need to get the 'Bickle T' stenciling done...). I'd be dubious about how good their leather could be at those prices, but very pleased with the cloth bits I've had so far. Sorely tempted by their B15...

Funny how the repro scene has evolved... when I first stumbled across it ten years ago and more, neither Aero nor Eastman as I recall were doing contract repros. House jackets only. Many of the manufacturers now around didn't exist back then... changed niche market.

Yeah, kind of funny this discussion. People here complain about VLJ as being "stitch counters" and now we have arguments about nothing really, some do things like standard Kelso (e.g. Chapman and Eastman), some other way (Aero, etc.). And here we have a dude who says I'll sort it out as you want it, and people still moan.

Anyway, I have a Goodwear one, acquired from someone posting here. Nice jacket, I had to check the pockets after I started reading this thread, though. I paid no attention to them before. They are cool.

Isn't it funny how this place pushes you to notice details? For years I was very happy with a seventy-quid Brando jacket; now, even though the Perfecto style wouldn't be my first choice always, though I still feel the need to have one, I can't get past the Aero / Eastman / Schott / etc thing and bring myself to buy the kind of jacket with which I would have been delighted a decade ago...

 

[Atticus Finch]

Yeah, kind of funny this discussion. People here complain about VLJ as being "stitch counters" and now we have arguments about nothing really...

I agree...and would add that nothing could be more fruitless than "stitch counting" an A-1 repro of any brand. As I understand it, surviving original examples are very rare and those that do exist vary in many details. There were A-1 design specifications...I've read them...but, evidently, the various manufactures treated those specifications as being something like suggestions. And I despair that much of what we believe we know about the A-1 actually comes from a relatively few grainy photographs.

AF

 

[Sloan1874]

"Nice jacket, I had to check the pockets after I started reading this thread, though. I paid no attention to them before. They are cool."

These kinds of threads can lead to 'jacket dysmorphia'. One day, you're happy with your A-1 or whatever, then you read something about the pocket placing, you're intrigued and keep reading. You get a few more opinions, some cool archive images, a bit of to-ing and fro-ing, and it's all well and good. But then the next time you throw your jacket on it's... just not quite right. And it only gets worse. You catch your reflection, and those damn pockets are still there. Eventually, you have no choice but to stick on the FL and let some poor soul take that misbegotten jacket on.

 

[tonypaj]

"Nice jacket, I had to check the pockets after I started reading this thread, though. I paid no attention to them before. They are cool."

These kinds of threads can lead to 'jacket dysmorphia'. One day, you're happy with your A-1 or whatever, then you read something about the pocket placing, you're intrigued and keep reading. You get a few more opinions, some cool archive images, a bit of to-ing and fro-ing, and it's all well and good. But then the next time you throw your jacket on it's... just not quite right. And it only gets worse. You catch your reflection, and those damn pockets are still there. Eventually, you have no choice but to stick on the FL and let some poor soul take that misbegotten jacket on.

Yeah, well, I'll just call Kelso then. Problems over. Except that the Visa bill goes up... But you're right, I just gave away an Aero B-3 and an A-2 to my uncle and cousin. They just weren't "right".

 

[thor]

"Nice jacket, I had to check the pockets after I started reading this thread, though. I paid no attention to them before. They are cool."

These kinds of threads can lead to 'jacket dysmorphia'. One day, you're happy with your A-1 or whatever, then you read something about the pocket placing, you're intrigued and keep reading. You get a few more opinions, some cool archive images, a bit of to-ing and fro-ing, and it's all well and good. But then the next time you throw your jacket on it's... just not quite right. And it only gets worse. You catch your reflection, and those damn pockets are still there. Eventually, you have no choice but to stick on the FL and let some poor soul take that misbegotten jacket on.

Doctor, my husband is suffering from JDS, Jacket Dysmorphia Syndrome! What can I do???
Order two Goodwears and call me in the morning.

 

[Sloan1874]

lol

 

[Worf]

Doctor, my husband is suffering from JDS, Jacket Dysmorphia Syndrome! What can I do???
Order two Goodwears and call me in the morning.

That's pretty funny. Truth be told... I, being towards the larger end of the scale, have a hard enough time finding jackets that FIT! Unless something's way to small or way too large I'd never consider letting it go over such small quibbles. My boss who took the Vanson trip with me has been perusing this site of late and is amazed at the.... errrrr... "passion" that some of you folks display about leather goods. He say's he'll try and keep me from "goin' down the rabbit hole" but it may be too late for that.

Worf

 

[Baron Kurtz]

the durability, or lack of, of sheep hides is the major reason so little old British leather survives in wearable condition (ignoring fleece/hair-on jackets). The stuff is just not up to tough wear. It's a shame as it looks and feels so good, but first time you rub your arm on something the stuff is marked, then torn.

 

[Otter]

I suspect you hit the nail on the head there. Not many surviving examples due to low initial production numbers and poor durability!

 

[Edward]

the durability, or lack of, of sheep hides is the major reason so little old British leather survives in wearable condition (ignoring fleece/hair-on jackets). The stuff is just not up to tough wear. It's a shame as it looks and feels so good, but first time you rub your arm on something the stuff is marked, then torn.

Yeah, that's why I avoid it myself - too easily damaged. That and I like the armour-esque feel of a good, heavy hide, but that's just me...

 

[andyfalzon]

Yes, durability is a concern. That's why we offer the A-1 in horsehide too, just as the Japanese firms are doing.

 

[Marv]

You mean this?

We can make this jacket as well.

Capeskin is produced from sheep and as such is not any more hard wearing than any other skin that comes from sheep.

The A1 with the higher situated pockets is the USN version as modelled by Cary Grant.......

 

[thor]

The A1 with the higher situated pockets is the USN version as modelled by Cary Grant.......

Although there is a faint image of a painted squadron patch on the left chest of the 103rd Aero Squadron, an Army Air Corps unit (previously seen on Lafayette Escadrille planes in WWI).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'm not convinced the initial production numbers were so small. The British leather jacket industry was significant, supplying the work and motorcycle/motoring communities.

I suspect you hit the nail on the head there. Not many surviving examples due to low initial production numbers and poor durability!

 

[Atticus Finch]

My problem with using goat or horse to make an A-1 is that the drape of these leathers seems not to work well with the A-1's design. Well-worn capeskin just has a unique, casual drape that I'm used to seeing when I look at an A-1. If it isn't there, the jacket screams “reproduction” to me.

Not trying to start an argument…just saying that, to me, the drape of the leather is as important as the size and shape of the pockets.

AF

 

[Atticus Finch]

I'm not convinced the initial production numbers were so small. The British leather jacket industry was significant, supplying the work and motorcycle/motoring communities.

Baron...I think Otter was talking about the A-1 being produced in small numbers compared to say, the A-2.

AF

 

[Otter]

Baron...I think Otter was talking about the A-1 being produced in small numbers compared to say, the A-2.

AF

Exactly, an original sample of a thousand or so now reduced to a short handful as opposed to an initial sample of hundreds of thousands.

 

[Seb Lucas]

My problem with using goat or horse to make an A-1 is that the drape of these leathers seems not to work well with the A-1's design. Well-worn capeskin just has a unique, casual drape that I'm used to seeing when I look at an A-1. If it isn't there, the jacket screams “reproduction” to me.

Not trying to start an argument…just saying that, to me, the drape of the leather is as important as the size and shape of the pockets.

AF

I agree with this but any A1 seen on a person today will obviously be a reproduction so does it matter so much? I reckon goat is the obvious leather for this one as it retains some of the lightness of sheep and, with a little wear, some of the drape. Veg tanned goat will fade and develop a nice patina also.