Tab Collar Shirts Still Available?

[Claudio]

I'm not one to do self promotion but is relevant to the thread: I guess depends on what vintage style you are refering to and what period. The original post seems to be refering to a 60's style - I have been doing these for a long time (since about 2001), mostly club collar, but also a few longer pointed collars too. Now whether one considers these to be faithful repros or not is a different matter.

 

[Two Types]

showing the tab:

 

[Claudio]

tab cannot be seen on the picture but I am assuming its there as a large club collar like that would've needed one to keep it in place (?)

 

[Two Types]

Marks and Spencer currently have this one. My son has one and it looks nice (although the fabric is a poly/cotton mix).
http://www.marksandspencer.com/slim-fit-collar-tab-shirt/p/p22322091

 

[scotrace]

Either Luxire or Natty will be able to make exactly what you're after. There are links at the top of every page.

 

[herringbonekid]

I'm not one to do self promotion but is relevant to the thread: I guess depends on what vintage style you are refering to and what period.

thanks Claudio. the collar shape i'm personally interested in is quite specific. it's the square cornered 20s-30s variety as posted on the previous page.

Either Luxire or Natty will be able to make exactly what you're after. There are links at the top of every page.

yes, most of us have had experience of one or both. custom route aside, i'm interested in whether any designers are currently doing these shirts.

 

[Two Types]

Adam of London do a range of tab collared shirts. Although they are essentially a 'mod' shop, some of the collars look quite nice. I believe their shirts are rather narrow fitting. Some of the collars are square cornered whilst others are rounded and some have longer collars in a more obviously sixties style.
I think the first collar is the nearest to the style you are looking for:

 

[Two Types]

Peter Haddon in the 1936 film 'House of the Spaniard'

 

[RegentSt1965]

After some success with chester barrie (in their sale to be worthwhile) but little success elsewhere in getting my favoured short point squared-off Oxford cloth tab, I ordered a MTM Brooks Bros from the Regent St store. They are made in the US by proper seamstresses. They got everything right. Normal range of MTM options (cuffs, sleeve lengths, button tab etc) . most importantly they got the point length, collar stand and point shape just right. UK price a few years ago £140 (favaourable comparison to pseudo-Jermyn St outsources brands and fashion brands). So pleased that I then got them to make me an identical Button Down (I seem to remember I specced 3 5/8th Point ) most importantly they placed the buttons spot-on. Developing a great roll

 

[Two Types]

Here's a lovely one from The Blue Lamp (1950):

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks for the pictures TT.
going back to the original question of "are these shirts still available ?" the answer seems to be "yes, but not in very exciting fabrics".
RRL do some nice vintage-looking shirt fabrics, but i haven't seen any in this collar shape with tab so far.

necessity - as usual - demands that i make my own.

 

[simonc]

I made this one out of 7oz vintage cloth with a matching weight collar and cuffs

Here is the true colour

I gave it a good 3.5" collar stand and a nice short 2.5" cuff.

I have a few others coming in will let you know.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Nice shirt, simonc. I like your choice of fabric and of course the horizontal stripes.


This pictures of an original shirt from the 1930s were recently uploaded to a facebook group. Good reference pics for reproductions.

 

[Two Types]

Simon: for me the mix of fabrics doesn't look right (of course that may just be the photos). The striped fabric looks to be a more casual fabric whilst the collar/cuffs appear to be a formal fabric. is that the case? For me it would look better if the two fabrics wear more similar in weave etc ...
... but my opinion isn't that valid since I doubt if I would ever wear a white collar/coloured shirt combination.

 

[herringbonekid]

Simonc, the problem for me with that fabric is that it looks like classic mattress ticking rather than shirt fabric.

thanks Flo, that's a good shot of the type that fastens to the collar stud (not that i wear detachable collars with studs !).

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Since the rest of simonc's clothes belong to the workwear side of things I think the fabric is appropriate. If the white collar fits the off white base is debatable. Maybe try a version without contrast collar?

HBK note that the collar stud is just for the tab. The collar is fully attached. I think that's a cool alternative to snaps because it will really stay in place.

 

[herringbonekid]

The collar is fully attached.

yes of course. :eusa_doh:

as for fabrics: i think it's very hard to get shirt fabrics today that have the quality of shirt fabrics of the teens-50s era. the weight , texture and complexity of woven design is just not there today. that's partly why i revived this thread; to see if any vintage-inspired brands are doing these shirts in interesting fabrics. the problem for me with custom makers such as Luxire is that you're limited by their fabric choice, which is modern shirtings. designers (such as RRL or the Japanese brands) are often the only people who are motivated to have fabrics woven to their specification. rather like modern suiting fabric, if you try to explain to a modern shirting maker why their fabrics are too thin and the designs boring they just glaze over.

 

[herringbonekid]

some vintage shirt fabrics to drool over:

 

[simonc]

Hi fellas thanks for the feedback, its really helpful, as Michael Angelo was prone to say "...As the marble wastes the statue grows". Here is something a later design, not tab, but not sure where to post it, but take a look and let me know, this one is in a sanded 7oz cotton in beige.

I have another red and blue tab coming in soon which I hope to share with you.

 

[Rudie]

some vintage shirt fabrics to drool over:

Oh my. Incredible.

What I really don't get is why modern shirting makers do not produce these kinds of fabrics anymore. I mean, the stuff is woven using computerized machines, right? I don't see how it would drive the cost so high that they can't afford it. It would would surely make for more sales if they had this kind of variety and offerings? Certainly not only vintage aficionados but also the general public would appreciate the sheer beauty of these vintage fabrics.