Suit language

[Raindog]

Hi Everyone, I must be one of the thickest people when it comes to knowing about the different terms used to describe suits and their features. I don't know a vent from a pleat from a dog biscuit.
I'd like to know the things I should be describing if I wanted to get a nice 1930's or 40's suit made (maybe Bogart, or a 1950's Bond). Are there any books that anyone can recommend on tailoring possibly, or good books on style of these periods? I want to know the details of these suits and the way they are put together.
It might be easy to simply take a picture into a tailors and say 'make that' but I'm interested in the names and make-up of the clothes, so I won't feel like a complete fool
I might never be able to afford (or indeed fit into) a vintage suit, but it might be possible for me to at least emulate the style to an extent using modern clothes

Jeff.

 

[Biltmore Bob]

I thought you said "Slut Language", and I couldn't wait to see what you were talking about.

 

[Raindog]

Haha! Well if you know any sluts that could teach me a little then let me know!


Jeff.

 

[Baggers]

Biltmore, when was the last time you had your eyes checked?

Cheers!

 

[MudInYerEye]

Haha! Well if you know any sluts that could teach me a little then let me know!


Jeff.

Take my girlfriend, please!

 

[Raindog]

Mudinyereye....If you can get her on a plane I'll have her

Of course, if the relationship doesn't work I'll send her back again!

Jeff.

 

[whistlebait]

There really is a little kink in all of us...

 

[Raindog]

Or in my case more of a 'warp'
Been looking at suit websites. All I've come across so far is the 'normal' business suit stuff.


Jeff.

 

[whistlebait]

Good luck in finding what you are looking for. If you stick around long enough, I'm sure the topic will come up again.

 

[Raindog]

Thanks whistlebait. I find it interesting that bespoke taylors don't get the information out there more so men feel more able to look at the options. It might surprise men in general that there are so many different looks as far as suits go. All I see everyday is the standard suit. I look at pics of vintage suits and they all look different and more cool altogether.
It could be because most men associate suits with work. Which is pretty sad. Where's the idea gone of wearing a suit for pleasure?


Jeff.

 

[MK]

.

Excuse me while I get the thread back on topic:

There are a number of books that have been talked about here that have the information you seek. Just use the seach function on the top navigation bar. I suggest you use the words: "book" and "suit"...also the author of the post will probably be Matt Deckard.

Mine are at the office, but I believe one is called "Dressing the Man"...or something like that.

 

[Andykev]

GREAT BOOKS - MUST HAVE

Clothes and the Man, Dressing the Man, and other books by Alan Flusser. Excellent text on how to, what to, and why on selecting mens's fashion, suits, color combinations.

These books, I have Clothes and the Man, and Dressing the Man, are very well done. The first is much better, in that it has everytihng your dad should have told you, or the wise salesman at he fine clothing store would recommend. All about types of shirts, cut, collar, to suits, sport coats, how to have it fit, tailored, what sox, shoes , over coats...hats. The entire package. I highly recommend it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0394546237/qid=1136654901/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/002-7136499-4540016?s=books&v=glance&n=283155

 

[Raindog]

The answer to my prayers! Thanks Andykev and MK. I might request some money for my birthday to get Clothes and the Man (?Ǭ£55 here in the UK!). It seems to be the most comprehensive and thorough book on the subject.
Might get a copy of dressing the man in the meantime as it's much cheaper. It could help turn this scruff into something admirable

Thanks again


Jeff.

 

[shindeco]

I have a booklet put out by "True, The Men's Magazine" in 1952 called "Buy your Clothes as You Buy a Car" that I picked up in a junk store years ago. It's actually pretty good for a booklet (28 pages, 4'x5").

eg; when they talk about fabric choice:

"If weight is important to you, ask your salesman about the weight of the fabric in the suit you plan to purchse. Fall and winter suitings average 13 to 14 ounces per yard (58 to 60 inches wide). Extra warmth is provided by 14-15 ounce material. If you are frequently confined to a well-heated office, a suit of 13 ounce cloth provides sufficient warmth."

I 'm still amazed when I read it how much information they give in what was essentially a "throw-away" promo.

(I'm not sure about the copyright so I won't post the whole thing here but when I find some more good bits, I'll stick them in)

 

[Matt Deckard]

there will be more to come to this thread

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=5322&highlight=details

 

[Senator Jack]

Matt Deckard owes it to all of us to go into the suit business. He knows more about mens' tailoring than all the tailors I've spoken to over the last twenty years. Listen to him and you can't go wrong. So how about it, Matt? When are you going to author a book on the subject?

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Marty M.]

You're right Raindog.

Thanks whistlebait. I find it interesting that bespoke taylors don't get the information out there more so men feel more able to look at the options. It might surprise men in general that there are so many different looks as far as suits go. All I see everyday is the standard suit. I look at pics of vintage suits and they all look different and more cool altogether.
It could be because most men associate suits with work. Which is pretty sad. Where's the idea gone of wearing a suit for pleasure?


Jeff.

I own a custom clothing store. You're so right about getting the word about real "Style". We custom clothiers don't get the word out about style. I do make suits with single breasted, peaked lapels, side vents, hand pic stitching, ticket pockets, bold silk linings and more interior pockets then you'd know what to put in them. We also make pants that have a "High V" cut in back, no loops and exterior buttons for braces. I love makeing and selling these retro styles. But there's a limited number of buyers out there. So many guy's rely on what the department and discount stores have to offer, that they're affraid to take a bold step forward. Guy's like you and other's from the Lounge need to keep educating our buddies about the world of style. Amen to real style.

 

[Senator Jack]

Originally posted by Mary M -
We also make pants that have a "High V" cut in back, no loops and exterior buttons for braces.

Marty, please post a link to your site. I've been asking for loopless brace-buttoned pants for years and have been getting laughed out of every store. I will certainly have you make me a few pair. I've always thought suspenders with looped pants looked ridiculous, not to mention men who wear suspenders and a belt. (Doesn't anyone tell these men that that's just wrong?)

Thanks and kind regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Raindog]

Thanks Matt, that thread is a mine of information. Already able to visualise some aspects of my ideal suit just from that thread!
And everyone's right....You SHOULD write a book on it.
MartyM, you're doing a sterling job yourself by actually making these suits. I hope the skills never die out, and it's thanks to people like you that they won't.


Jeff.

 

[Marty M.]

Style is as Style does.

Senator Jack,
Even though I've had my store for twelve years, I still don't have a web site. I've interviewed lot's of web designers. But none of them had that certin clothing "Mojo" that I was looking for (sorry I'm a major leauge control freak). But I now have a guy with Mojo. Our web site is finally being built. Please feel free to email me at marty@martydirect.com. I'll be glad to help you any way I can. By the way, I once saw Iron Mike Dikta on the sideline wearing suspenders(I call the metal clip style suspenders and the button style braces), a belt and croakies holding up his sun glasses. Nobody felt the need to tell him how wrong he looked.