Marc Chevalier
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So is the Hollywood collar one with a bit more spread to the points so it can be warn open and more casually?
No, the California collar is. It's also fatter.
So is the Hollywood collar one with a bit more spread to the points so it can be warn open and more casually?
This may have been posted before but I was just on Darcy Clothing's site and found this. Hope this helps someone.
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/s...-spearpoint-collar-attached-shirts-sh192.html
The Paul Fredrick shirts are way too short in the collar like the Van Heusen version. I do like the Paul Stewart and old Joseph and Lyman Spearpoint shirts.
I think what's left out here when people are trying to find a separation between styles is that some have collar stands and some do not.
Shirts can be cut with a bigger spread or with less spread. There are many names for all the collars. The point of difference I see is the absence or presence of a collar stand.
With a collar stand it's dressier to my eye, and without it's more casual. When it comes to names I don't believe there were any uniform names for the collar, yet for the sake of the Lounge let's call the one with the stand the Chevalier, and the one without the Marc.
Chevalier: Shirt with collar stand: Dressier, looks better with tie.
There is a band of material between the body of the shirt and the collar. You might find collar says in this one.
Marc: No collar stand: Casual, Can be called California, used on a lot of work shirts. Can be easliy worn without a tie. You will rarely if ever find collar stays in this one.
The shirt body is connected directly with the body of the shirt with no band of material between the collar and the body.
By the by, I've always admired this shirt Zane is wearing in The Phantom. It has a stand and looks quite awesome, even if it's not too long.
Anywho, here are some MDA shirts.
http://mattdeckardapparel.tumblr.com/
With a collar stand it's dressier to my eye, and without it's more casual. When it comes to names I don't believe there were any uniform names for the collar, yet for the sake of the Lounge let's call the one with the stand the Chevalier, and the one without the Marc.
In period the shirt collar without stand was called a 'convertible collar', since it can be worn open or closed, and was associated primarily with sportswear. There may have been other names, but this is the name that appears most often in literature regarding garment sewing.
Marc: No collar stand: Casual, Can be called California, ...
the 4" version was called a 'Barrymore' collar, and 4.5"+ versions were known as 'Hollywood' collars.
The earliest online reference to a 'Barrymore' collar dates back to 1929: http://books.google.com/books?id=R_...X&ei=2En0TsKZFOagiQKEm-3RDg&ved=0CE4Q6AEwBDgU
And here's a Barrymore collar reference from 1930: http://books.google.com/books?id=tu...X&ei=Ukr0TuKgDaKbiQLltK2rDg&ved=0CEsQ6AEwBDge
i like that second shirt alotBeing a term I heard from Jeff Beauregard almost 20 years ago, "Barrymore Collar" and hearing it often used by you to describe collars that are 4 inches or longer, I have a couple questions when it comes to historical context.
Even with this reference to the term "Barrymore Collar", is there actually an image or measurements shown to go with this?
And for clarity sake.
Yes/No?
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Spearpoint
Point collar with points that end in a dagger tip shape, can sometimes have half moon curve to the cut. Points come together at a very acute angle.
3.5 inches or longer?
Not to be confused with the spearpoint, this would be more of a "long point collar"?
California
Point collar with or without a collar stand that has points that are 4 inches or longer. There is little to no curve to the collar. Often very soft with a more obtuse spread to the points when compared to the spearpoint
Yes, I think it was mentioned somewhere. There is a so called Tony-Collar shirt from a company called Zootsuitstore but they are made of 35% cotton/65% polyester which is pretty bad imo.
Yes, I think it was mentioned somewhere. There is a so called Tony-Collar shirt from a company called Zootsuitstore but they are made of 35% cotton/65% polyester which is pretty bad imo.