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Smoking Jackets

Smuterella

One Too Many
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1,776
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London
Tomasso said:
chriscon22.jpg

I shouldn't find that sexy but somehow i do...
 

MarkL

One of the Regulars
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178
Location
Allentown, Pennsylvania
PrettyBigGuy said:
I finally just ordered one the "dressing gown" robes like Pyro's but I got it in black. I prefer the long robe style over the short smoking jacket style. I ordered it in XXL. I hope it's long enough!
I've been on the lookout for a large "lounge robe with full length sleeves and the quilted lapels fora while now. I always liked the look of Gene Wilder's smoking jacket in "Young Frankenstein" , but again, I would want it long.

http://www.ladyofthecake.com/mel/frank/images/bags.jpg

I tried to post the above image, but for some reason menu bar wasn't working!

Loved the picture of you in that blue/green smoking jacket/dressing gown. Is that an ascot you are also wearing! What a perfect combination!
 

mike

Call Me a Cab
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2,000
Location
HOME - NYC
Smoking Jacket Etiquette

I just picked up this somewhat low key but to my eye mighty stylish smoking jacket...
182949400_o.jpg

182949728_o.jpg

I will not wear it outside to walk the dog or while bathing. :p Any other suggestions on specifically when to or not to wear a smoking jacket? In films I've seen people come home, take off their suit jacket, put on a smoking jacket and fix themselves a drink and sit by the fire with the dog. Or! While entertaining guests after dinner would it be appropriate to change into my smoking jacket while the men folk sit in my parlor to discuss politics and have some drinks?! Or is it more private and not to be changed into while company are over?
 

LondonLuke

One of the Regulars
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141
Location
London/Sheffield
I understand a smoking jacket is to be worn whilst relaxing with other men after dinner, drinking the port, smoking cigars and all that. Originally there were created for use only whilst smoking, and a smoking cap would be worn at the same time so smoke would not reach normal clothes, and offend lady's nostrils.



An alternative smoking jacket may be found in the aftermath of a fire
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,068
Location
London, UK
Mike,

Nice find - lovely looking jacket. It seems to me that the smoking jacket was, in essence, a shorter dressing gown, though one closer in spirit to Holmes' housecoat than what you in the US would term a 'bathrobe.' The coat that you have acquired is perfectly suited to lounging around the house in. Certainly, the way the sort of smoking jackets that were commerically available by the 50s (I'd hazard a guess this is a 1950s or early 60s example? I don't claim to be an expert, though!) in the USA would have been used.

The Smoking jacket has its origins in Victorian English Upper Class circles. These original garments were made of heavier fabrics, typically velvet. After dinner, when the ladies had left the table for the drawing room, the gentlemen would relax with cigars having replaced their dinner jackets with smoking jackets, and perhaps also donned smoking caps. The intention was that the heavy fabric would absorb the smell of smoke, avoiding it clinging to their hair / clothes. By the 30s, whenever a dinner party was being held in the home and it was appropriate for attending males to be wearing black tie, it was acceptable practice for the host (and, I believe, the host alone) to wear a smoking jacket in place of the dj. On this basis, it would be entirely appropriate for you to don yours after dinner with friends in your own home. Wearing it in place of a dj outside the home, however - as some nowadays do - would have been considered rather a faux pas back in the day.


You might also find the following thread useful - though it didn't start out with that intention, we did cover much of the etiquette there too, I believe:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=458
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
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9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
Keeping in mind that these garments proliferated in a country and era when central heating was thought of as a silly fad. You might find it a little warm over a shirt and tie, or shirt and ascot.
But, especially with the ascot, you'd look tres cool. Add a pipe and you'd look like Hugh Hefner, but 1,000 years younger.
Then again, with a fez, a little mustache, and about 60 more pounds of weight, you could look like Major Hoople. lol
 

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,392
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
That's a nice one.

Maybe they should be subdivided into two categories? Yours would be for coming home, shedding the suit jacket, donning this one, and having a drink.
For after dinner with guests, I think a smoking jacket would only work in silk, and only in a very formal setting. And only with like-minded guests or you'd look like you were slipping into half your jammies.

Actually, now that I think about it, I think what a guy would change into after hours for relaxing was a proper dressing gown. See John Gilbert in scenes from "Flesh and the Devil" (1928) for examples.
 

mike

Call Me a Cab
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2,000
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HOME - NYC
scotrace said:
That's a nice one.

Maybe they should be subdivided into two categories? Yours would be for coming home, shedding the suit jacket, donning this one, and having a drink.
For after dinner with guests, I think a smoking jacket would only work in silk, and only in a very formal setting. And only with like-minded guests or you'd look like you were slipping into half your jammies.

I'd love to get a silk one but I haven't found on in my size in good condition that was affordable... yet.

I'm envisioning Claude Rains' in the Invisible Man! :D

I don't have a pipe or slippers but I like the idea of putting on my "drinking clothes" lol
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
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USA
While very nice, this is not a garment that one would wear to host a party in their home or wear in lieu of a DJ. For that use think velvet, braiding, frogging, etc.....
 

mike

Call Me a Cab
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2,000
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HOME - NYC
Tomasso said:
While very nice, this is not a garment that one would wear to host a party in their home or wear in lieu of a DJ. For that use think velvet, braiding, frogging, etc.....

so only the host of a get together would be able to wear a smoking jacket? Others wouldn't bring their own?

I was half thinking of eventually picking up a few so a few friends could come over and partake in the atmosphere.

Meanwhile, this is all somewhat tongue in cheek as I live in a cramped nothing special NYC apartment where virtually none of my friends come visit :rolleyes: But in my head, it sounds fun :D
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
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9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
Mike, it's all a question of attitude. Create a little corner of civilization for yourself. Politely request your imaginary valet to bring you your smoking jacket and drink. Then momentarily assuming your valet alter ego identity, perform those tasks. Bring yourself your jacket and drink. Thank yourself, and ensconce yourself for you evening's relaxation. Maybe a book , and a little WQXR would be nice. Send us a picture.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,068
Location
London, UK
mike said:
so only the host of a get together would be able to wear a smoking jacket? Others wouldn't bring their own?

I was half thinking of eventually picking up a few so a few friends could come over and partake in the atmosphere.

As with any dressing "rule," you are kin of your own domain, and within your own home you can naturally choose to dispense or change the rules to suit yourself. ;) I presume, given its original purpose, there must have been a point in time when the host would either provide the assembled guests with smoking jackets, or they brought their own, but by the Golden Age it certainly seems to have been considered appropriate for the host alone. That said, I have always understood this to be a permitted deviation for the host from the norm of black tie dress code. A casual affectation that would have been disrespectful and bad form for a guest to adopt. In that context, if your get together was an altogether more informal affair, it would not be an issue to my understanding.
 

TraderRic

One of the Regulars
Messages
133
Location
Dubai, UAE...for a little while.
Depending on the guest list I might imagine that guests brought their own smoking jackets and their valets took charge of them when not in use.

I had a small dinner party a while back where I wore a silk dressing gown while socializing before dinner (I know, how very Noel Coward of me). I was wearing a grey 3 piece and put the jacket on when I went to the table then replaced it with the dressing gown after leaving the table.
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
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7,425
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METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
Etiquette.

I will not wear it outside to walk the dog or while bathing. :p Any other suggestions on specifically when to or not to wear a smoking jacket? In films I've seen people come home, take off their suit jacket, put on a smoking jacket and fix themselves a drink and sit by the fire with the dog. Or! While entertaining guests after dinner would it be appropriate to change into my smoking jacket while the men folk sit in my parlor to discuss politics and have some drinks?! Or is it more private and not to be changed into while company are over?[/QUOTE]

Pretty spot-on Mike. As has been said, can wear with company, after dinner, while having cigars/cigs with your male guests. Oh, and the labrador/springer! Designed to absorb the cigar smoke, and therefore protect your Tux/DJ.
 

reetpleat

Call Me a Cab
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2,681
Location
Seattle
LondonLuke said:
I understand a smoking jacket is to be worn whilst relaxing with other men after dinner, drinking the port, smoking cigars and all that. Originally there were created for use only whilst smoking, and a smoking cap would be worn at the same time so smoke would not reach normal clothes, and offend lady's nostrils.



An alternative smoking jacket may be found in the aftermath of a fire


I agree. But would that mean a gentleman would bring his smoking jacket to a dinner party? WOuld they have their man bring it?

Or would a host offer guest jackets?
 

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