"Slimming" an Aero

[Philalethes]

I have seen several Loungers say that they requested a slimmer fit for their Aeros. What modifications does this entail?

I would not want the shoulders, arms, or chest slimmed. However, I have a 7" drop (difference) between my chest and my waist, so I think having the waist area slimmed would be beneficial for me - if it doesn't make the jacket look disproportionate somehow. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[Norsksea]

To get a trim fit jacket you need to know all your measurements not just jacket size.
I have seen some jackets shown here that too short or not fitting correctly because i think they went with jacket size.
I'm having a FQHH Bootlegger made and I am looking at 3 inches over my chest and waist for a trim fit.
I read that 2 inches over is trim fit but 2 inches scares me in being to tight.
Frank

 

[UWEZ]

My experience is the following: I normally would need size 42, I am 178cm & 74 kg. Thus for trim fit, I ordered chest size 40, but length and arm-length like in size 42 (for my Highwayman & 50's Halfbelt).
Therefore length and arm-length are correct, but chest is trim fitting. Especially with boxy jackets like Cheyenne this is working well. Jackets with side-straps, you might need a bit longer side-straps, because in trim fit you may open them a bit more. When side-straps too short, you have to leave them open, which doesn't look nice to me.
Regards
Uwe

 

[Peacoat]

I have seen several Loungers say that they requested a slimmer fit for their Aeros. What modifications does this entail?

I would not want the shoulders, arms, or chest slimmed. However, I have a 7" drop (difference) between my chest and my waist, so I think having the waist area slimmed would be beneficial for me - if it doesn't make the jacket look disproportionate somehow. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I don't think "slimming" the 7" drop is something you ought to worry about. If you provide accurate measurements, it is up to Aero to get it right. What you do need to discuss is the overall fit. If you want the jacket cut a little larger, then you need to tell them. Or if you want an overall slimmer fit, you need to tell them that also. But be aware that many of their patterns are of vintage jackets that already are cut slimmer than the current blousy fit of today.

I had an 8" drop when I sent in my measurements for a Highwayman, and they got it right. It was cut a little tighter than I like, but over the years it has stretched a bit to fit my body.

Good luck with your purchase.

 

[blethook]

I agree with Peacoat. Also, if you have a good fitting jacket you can supply them with all the measurements as reference (give them as much details of the jacket as possible).

I personally find the sizing of Aero's utility jackets way too generous. I think this is to accommodate today's cut. I need to downsize to a "37" to get the same fit that I would get with a size 40 military jacket (e.g., A-2).

Aero achieves this by taking size 36 jacket pattern and use smaller turnings.

 

[Edward]

I too would suggest giving Aero your actual body measurements and advising on how you would like the jacket to fit. Every Aero design is a bit different: the Highwayman is a 'boxy' design, significantly different than, say, a Thirties Halfbelt. All my Aeros - Thirties Halfbelt, A2, AN6552, Bootlegger, Motorcycle and wool Waterfront are a size 42, and the cut of each varies a little from the others (in terms of fit, the closest together are actually the wool waterfront and the goat A2). You might be able to go tighter on the chest in a boxy jacket without it affecting the overall pattern than in, say, a Thirties halfbelt (the most significantly tapered to the waist fit of all my Aeros).

To be honest, in general I'd be careful about slimming an Aero anyhow.... Unless you especially want a Highwayman, for example, I'd suggest a Fifties halfbelt would be a better option if you wanted that jacket but in a neater fit. The slim fit jackets are already slim. My Halfbelt looks grand; to slim the original pattern down, without going up a size, I'd end up looking like one of those Luftwaffe boys with the 'shrunken shirt' fit some of them seem to have preferred in their leathers. First thing I would be doing would be to decide how slim you want your jacket to be, ad then look to see if Aero have a pattern you like in that fit as standard. I have to admit I'm beginning to wonder how far the "jackets were slimmer back then" meme has become characateured (think: those photos of ridiculous Oxford Bags as opposed to how they were really worn).

 

[Norsksea]

Back in the 30's though the 50's there were tailor shops all over the place and jacket sizing was made for your body. Today tailoring is a specialty service and why these leather jackets cost so much. I am 6' 4" and can't find a leather jacket that fits me unless I buy a double X just to get the sleeve length I need, but then it's really double wide. Today's sizing charts that are found some online leather shops (not Aero) the only add 1" over in sleeve length for a jacket and then they fit like a tent.
You will need to know your body measurements to get the right fit no matter what the differences between jacket styles. I ordered a Bootlegger jacket made by Aero and I have been on the phone with Will about the measurements. I know what my measurement are and Will has the expertise in jacket styling, the leather and how the jackets are made to help me decide on the correct jacket measurements.
Frank

 

[HighandDry]

I agree with Edward. I'm a pretty slim guy with a 8 inch drop and my best fitting Aero is a 30's halfbelt, while my worst fitting is a Cheyenne. I believe the reason for this is the inherent design of the jacket. I tried to make the Cheyenne into a more slim fitting coat (like JanSolo), but for me it didn't really work out that well. The 30's halfbelt fits me perfectly and is basically off the shelf. The one thing is I usually wear a 40 in a suit and Amanda actually recommended a 40. However, when I was able to try on the coats, a 38 was a perfect fit.

 

[Philalethes]

Thanks for all the replies. I should call Will with my precise measurements. I spoke to him about my concern, and he advised that I size down from a 38 to a 36. But after having Amanda email me the shoulder and chest measurements for a 36, I think it would be too tight. I am beginning to suspect that I have slightly bigger shoulders, arms, and upper back then most people with my chest size (38). This would explain why I often need to size up to a 40 OTR. But, as I said, my torso is relatively small, so I am hard to size.

To get a trim fit jacket you need to know all your measurements not just jacket size.
I have seen some jackets shown here that too short or not fitting correctly because i think they went with jacket size.
I'm having a FQHH Bootlegger made and I am looking at 3 inches over my chest and waist for a trim fit.
I read that 2 inches over is trim fit but 2 inches scares me in being to tight.
Frank

I have a wool coat that is 2 inches over my chest size. The fit is not too tight but it is snug.

 

[Philalethes]

I agree with Edward. I'm a pretty slim guy with a 8 inch drop and my best fitting Aero is a 30's halfbelt, while my worst fitting is a Cheyenne. I believe the reason for this is the inherent design of the jacket. I tried to make the Cheyenne into a more slim fitting coat (like JanSolo), but for me it didn't really work out that well. The 30's halfbelt fits me perfectly and is basically off the shelf. The one thing is I usually wear a 40 in a suit and Amanda actually recommended a 40. However, when I was able to try on the coats, a 38 was a perfect fit.

It is interesting that the Cheyenne is what doesn't fit you very well, since I am planning on a Barnstormer, which is, I imagine, a similar cut. I think the fact that the Barnstormer has a belt would help a slim figure greatly, but I am concerned that it will have too much fabric bunched up in the back.

 

[Mojo1975]

In our shop, we have in stock the slimfit Aero jackets--the J106s, the Cafe' Racers, the 1930s Halfbelt, etc. When I go to the normal Aero cut jackets, such as something like a Stuart, I size down two whole sizes (from a 42 to a 38)...otherwise I'm drowning in horsehide. Just a quick rule of thumb that seems to work pretty well...

 

[HighandDry]

It is interesting that the Cheyenne is what doesn't fit you very well, since I am planning on a Barnstormer, which is, I imagine, a similar cut. I think the fact that the Barnstormer has a belt would help a slim figure greatly, but I am concerned that it will have too much fabric bunched up in the back.

I believe the Barnstormer is a bit roomier than the Cheyenne. Again, I think that it's difficult to make a roomy cut jacket more "slim". However, JanSolo and Griff had very nice Cheyennes which fit them quite well. One of the problems in my coat is that the original coat was VERY big and they re-did it. It fits much better now, but the arm holes became screwed up and it's still pretty roomy in the back.

 

[UWEZ]

@Mojo1975: I understand your system, as I do it as already written before with only one size down. How are you handling length & arm-length with this?

 

[Dav]

When I ordered the Cheyenne in my avatar I sized down from a 42 to a 40 and just told them what arm and body length I wanted, I have long arms for my chest size which is 42".

 

[Philalethes]

In our shop, we have in stock the slimfit Aero jackets--the J106s, the Cafe' Racers, the 1930s Halfbelt, etc. When I go to the normal Aero cut jackets, such as something like a Stuart, I size down two whole sizes (from a 42 to a 38)...otherwise I'm drowning in horsehide. Just a quick rule of thumb that seems to work pretty well...

When you go down two sizes, do you have any room left for a sweater, or just a shirt?

 

[Philalethes]

I believe the Barnstormer is a bit roomier than the Cheyenne. Again, I think that it's difficult to make a roomy cut jacket more "slim". However, JanSolo and Griff had very nice Cheyennes which fit them quite well. One of the problems in my coat is that the original coat was VERY big and they re-did it. It fits much better now, but the arm holes became screwed up and it's still pretty roomy in the back.

So, just to be clear, the original Cheyenne you ordered was too large, and you sent it back to them to have it trimmed?

 

[Philalethes]

When I ordered the Cheyenne in my avatar I sized down from a 42 to a 40 and just told them what arm and body length I wanted, I have long arms for my chest size which is 42".

I always admire the Cheyenne in your avatar...
Maybe I could get away with going down a size, but I am also afraid that it would be too tight in some areas.

 

[HighandDry]

So, just to be clear, the original Cheyenne you ordered was too large, and you sent it back to them to have it trimmed?

Correct. I should have pursued it more with Aero, but the expense of sending the jacket plus wrongly charged custom costs, already put me another 100 in the hole. I kind of convinced myself that it was ok

I gave Amanda all my measurements and she suggested a 40. Retrospectively, I should have listened to my gut and ordered a 38. Looking at Dav, he seems a much bigger guy and he is in a 40. FYI, I'm 162, 5'10", 40" chest, and 32" waist.

I was thinking of a halfbelt and Amanda suggested a 40. Luckily, Mojo's store had a bunch of halfbelts and I was able to try them on. I ended up with a 38, which fits me perfectly.

Philalethes, what are your measurements?

 

[Philalethes]

Philalethes, what are your measurements?

Good idea: I suppose it might have helped to post these in the beginning. In fact, looking at the measurements my wife took a few weeks ago, I am not exactly what I thought I was:

145 lbs.
5' 9"
dress shirt size: 16 32/33
pants size: 31
suit jacket size: 38 or 40

over a dress shirt and undershirt:
38" chest (inhaled)
36" chest (exhaled) [smaller than I thought]
32" true waist [so I only have a 6" drop from inhaled chest - waist size varies with me depending on my activity level]
45" around thickest part of shoulders

Recommendations for suit jacket size are never consistent: depending on where I go, I am told that I am regular or short and that my chest size is 38, 39, or 40. Often clothes are either too tight for me in the chest - which is why I suspect my arms, shoulders, and upper back might be a little larger than normal for my chest size - or too loose in the waist.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Correct. I should have pursued it more with Aero, but the expense of sending the jacket plus wrongly charged custom costs, already put me another 100 in the hole. I kind of convinced myself that it was ok

I gave Amanda all my measurements and she suggested a 40. Retrospectively, I should have listened to my gut and ordered a 38. Looking at Dav, he seems a much bigger guy and he is in a 40. FYI, I'm 162, 5'10", 40" chest, and 32" waist.

I was thinking of a halfbelt and Amanda suggested a 40. Luckily, Mojo's store had a bunch of halfbelts and I was able to try them on. I ended up with a 38, which fits me perfectly.

That is too bad it didn't work out with the Cheyenne. In Aero's defense, it does seem hard to size someone up over the phone or internet, even with experience. As an anecdote, I once consulted an experienced nutritionist over the phone, who thought that my issue was probably Y. As soon as I saw him in person, he realized that my issue was the exact opposite of Y.

It is informative, however, that you needed to size down.

 

[HighandDry]

I would definitely listen to Will and go down to a 36.

I do understand it's hard to size someone over the internet. When Mojo told me he had a bunch of Aeros, I remember telling him I swore off Aero, since it seemed to me that they never fit me right. Being able to try the jackets on made a world of difference and made me realize that it was just the sizing label that was wrong

If you want a mid-weight jerky Cheyenne in a "aprox 38", I'll give you a good deal