"Slimming" an Aero

[Radu]

Philalethes, I am 150lbs and 5.9", exactly your size. My first HWM was a regular 38" size. It was too large for me. So, I sold it and I tried to find the perfect measures for me. Like many others on that forum , I want a slim fit even if the jacket was not designed that way.
Amanda is so sweet and helpful, but she always follow the idea of their pattern according to 30s-50s and that means a boxier cut with lower armholes.All you have to do is to take the risk and ask the measures that you think will work for you. I risked and ordered the next HWM one size smaller ( 36") and with some cut changes . I can tell you that it works . Now I have a HWM almost perfect. Why almost? because is very hard to make the HWM a slim fit jacket. Maybe the third HWM will be perfect . You should also need to know that it is impossible to cut the jacket exactly according to your measurements. There is always a margin of error because of thickness of the hide and because of pattern that can be changed only within certain limits.

But but I learned a few rules and maybe will help you ( for slim fit ):
* the jacket armpit should be 2"-2.5" over your body armpit if you want heavy steerhide .
* shoulder jacket 1" less than your body shoulder.
* the jacket bottom measures is also very important
* the neck opening could be a little to small if you downsize. If I wear a neck sweater I can't take the zipper up top. ( I ask 38" neck opening, but I don't know what happened... )
* the collar is a little small on 36". I also ask the 38" collar but ...

However, if you are very picky, like me, get ready as the first coat to be not quite as you expect .

Radu

 

[Philalethes]

Philalethes, I am 150lbs and 5.9", exactly your size. My first HWM was a regular 38" size. It was too large for me. So, I sold it and I tried to find the perfect measures for me. Like many others on that forum , I want a slim fit even if the jacket was not designed that way.

Thanks for your detailed advice. I looked at the size 36 Highwayman in Aero's sale section today: the proportions looked like they would fit me, while it is still loose enough for layering, which is what I want. So if the HWM and Barnstormer cuts are similar, perhaps I would want to go down a size.

Amanda is so sweet and helpful, but she always follow the idea of their pattern according to 30s-50s and that means a boxier cut with lower armholes.All you have to do is to take the risk and ask the measures that you think will work for you. I risked and ordered the next HWM one size smaller ( 36") and with some cut changes . I can tell you that it works . Now I have a HWM almost perfect. Why almost? because is very hard to make the HWM a slim fit jacket. Maybe the third HWM will be perfect .

I hope I may avoid having to purchase three Barnstormers!

You should also need to know that it is impossible to cut the jacket exactly according to your measurements. There is always a margin of error because of thickness of the hide and because of pattern that can be changed only within certain limits.

That is worth bearing in mind.

But but I learned a few rules and maybe will help you ( for slim fit ):
* the jacket armpit should be 2"-2.5" over your body armpit if you want heavy steerhide .
* shoulder jacket 1" less than your body shoulder.
* the jacket bottom measures is also very important
* the neck opening could be a little to small if you downsize. If I wear a neck sweater I can't take the zipper up top. ( I ask 38" neck opening, but I don't know what happened... )
* the collar is a little small on 36". I also ask the 38" collar but ...

However, if you are very picky, like me, get ready as the first coat to be not quite as you expect .

Radu

A clarification question: my shoulders measure ~18" side to side, which is what the size 36 Barnstormer pattern prescribes. I have been reluctant to go for this size, because the smallest jacket I have is 19" in the shoulders and I don't want the coat to be too tight - especially for layering. By your rules above, would you recommend I ask for ~17" in the shoulders?

I hadn't thought about the neck and collar being smaller - I should ask Will about that.

 

[Philalethes]

If you want a mid-weight jerky Cheyenne in a "aprox 38", I'll give you a good deal

Tempting, if only for the jerky, but I am taking it only one Aero at a time

 

[Radu]

[QUOTE
A clarification question: my shoulders measure ~18" side to side, which is what the size 36 Barnstormer pattern prescribes. I have been reluctant to go for this size, because the smallest jacket I have is 19" in the shoulders and I don't want the coat to be too tight - especially for layering. By your rules above, would you recommend I ask for ~17" in the shoulders? /QUOTE]

Hi,
My shoulder measure is 18.5" and my first HWM was 18.5" . For the second one I ask Amanda the same measure -18.5" but they cut it at 17.5".
The both ,18.5" and 17.5" are OK, but since I want it as tight as possible, I found 17.5" perfect for me. I guess if you want a normal fit not a tight fit, you should go with your normal shoulder measure -18".
Radu

 

[Philalethes]

Hi,
My shoulder measure is 18.5" and my first HWM was 18.5" . For the second one I ask Amanda the same measure -18.5" but they cut it at 17.5".
The both ,18.5" and 17.5" are OK, but since I want it as tight as possible, I found 17.5" perfect for me. I guess if you want a normal fit not a tight fit, you should go with your normal shoulder measure -18".
Radu

Thanks again, Radu.

 

[Philalethes]

How much does horsehide stretch?

Can I err on the side of making the jacket too tight, because the horsehide will stretch over time?

I purchased a cowhide jacket last year in size M that was a little tight in the chest. Now, the jacket has stretched so that the chest is perfectly comfortable. Had I known it would stretch so much, I would have bought a size S, which fit well everywhere but the chest, which was even tighter - I couldn't fit a sweater underneath. I think it would have been fine over time.

 

[Dav]

Horsehide will stretch and mold to you body somewhat but will the lining. Also if it gets wet it might shrink back again when it dries.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I think the best way is to provide body measurements and say how you want it to fit.
I did this for my second Highwayman and told Amanda that I would ever only use a t-shirt under the jacket.
I asked for it to be tapered and that it should be trim with the sidestraps all the way out and tight with them
strapped some. I believe the fit is good, although it could have been a tiny bit more trim in the body
and it might have been if I had specified trim/snug.

I might have been lucky, but it turned out just perfect for me except as I said the shoulders could have been
a tiny bit snugger but its a very comfortable jacket.

Pic:

I think this is the best way to go, provide measures and specify the fit.
If it gets wrong then its easier to change it, easier then if you specify alot of measures on the jacket wich might turn
out different then you think, it happened to me on my first Highwayman so I know what im talking about.
Its hard to get what you want over the net but my 3 Aeros have been perfect(and 1 mistake), I have specified very exactly how I wanted the fit on each and every one and they nailed it on a cheyenne, Highwayman and Cafe racer.
I have never talked sizes just given my measures and 2 of them is 38 and the CafeRacer is a 40 (but its very tight)

 

[Philalethes]

I think the best way is to provide body measurements and say how you want it to fit.
I did this for my second Highwayman and told Amanda that I would ever only use a t-shirt under the jacket.
I asked for it to be tapered and that it should be trim with the sidestraps all the way out and tight with them
strapped some. I believe the fit is good, although it could have been a tiny bit more trim in the body
and it might have been if I had specified trim/snug.

I might have been lucky, but it turned out just perfect for me except as I said the shoulders could have been
a tiny bit snugger but its a very comfortable jacket.

I think this is the best way to go, provide measures and specify the fit.
If it gets wrong then its easier to change it, easier then if you specify alot of measures on the jacket wich might turn
out different then you think, it happened to me on my first Highwayman so I know what im talking about.
Its hard to get what you want over the net but my 3 Aeros have been perfect(and 1 mistake), I have specified very exactly how I wanted the fit on each and every one and they nailed it on a cheyenne, Highwayman and Cafe racer.
I have never talked sizes just given my measures and 2 of them is 38 and the CafeRacer is a 40 (but its very tight)

Thanks for your response and the pic. I would say that your Highwayman turned out quite fitted, especially compared to the others I have seen. It looks rather nice.

I am glad that you brought up tapering at the waist, since this was initially what I had in mind, although I did not come out and say it.

In my case, I want the jacket to be fitted but not so tight that I cannot layer under it. I have seen other Loungers mention that when they requested the jacket fit to accommodate a sweater, it turned out too tight to do so - hence my anxiety about letting Aero determine the size. In any case, you are probably right that going by particular measurements may not turn out exactly the way I would expect.

If I may ask, what is your chest size?

Thanks,
Philalethes

 

[1087]

Thanks for your response and the pic. I would say that your Highwayman turned out quite fitted, especially compared to the others I have seen. It looks rather nice.

I am glad that you brought up tapering at the waist, since this was initially what I had in mind, although I did not come out and say it.

In my case, I want the jacket to be fitted but not so tight that I cannot layer under it. I have seen other Loungers mention that when they requested the jacket fit to accommodate a sweater, it turned out too tight to do so - hence my anxiety about letting Aero determine the size. In any case, you are probably right that going by particular measurements may not turn out exactly the way I would expect.

If I may ask, what is your chest size?

Thanks,
Philalethes

Philalethes;
The only possible way to have a jacket exactly the way you want it, is a full custom made to exact every measurement.
As far as I know only Langlitz and Bates made their jackets that way, but your choice of jackets is not in their line up.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Chest: 38.6"
Chest inhale: 39.3"
Tummy: 35.4"
Hips: 37"

As you can see, there isnt very much to taper to because I have wide hipbones so I do not have the same problem as you here.
The jacket is labeled as 38 but I have no Idea if it is a standard 38 or cut to my dimensions.
My Cheyenne is also a 38 and is alot bigger, my CafeRacer is a 40 and is much slimmer (it is tight when zipped and can never be worn with a sweater under)