Side By Side/ Hat Comparisons

[steur]

With the arrival of my latest hat from Michael Gannon I now have three custom fedoras in blue felt.

Custom Agnoulita rabbit fur felt in suede finished marine blue:

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Custom Gannon beaver in navy:

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Custom Gannon nutria in midnight:

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And group photos:

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The marine blue Agnoulita is made from Tonak’s rabbit fur felt. The felt is light and has minimal stiffeners in it. It can almost be wadded into a ball. The felt is lower density and a bit spongey. The color is lighter than the others.

The Gannon navy is made from Winchester’s 100% beaver fur felt. It is the densest of the hats and the crown is thin and accepts most dry creasing (a bit of steam helps to hold the shape). The color is the darkest of the three and the hardest to accurately capture in photos.

The Gannon midnight is made from 100% nutria fur felt sourced from Sunrise Hat Supply. The felt is thicker than the beaver and the hat is the heaviest of the three. The hand is exceptional and the crown is very soft and the brim noticeably firmer. The crown shapes with minimal pressure, but it springs back much more than the beaver. The felt holds its shape easily with some steam, but it’s not the “dead” shapes like clay kind of felt. The depth of the color and the shade of blue is outstanding.

For color, I like the midnight nutria the best. The color saturation and vividness is excellent. It also has the best hand and will make an exceptional cooler weather hat. For overall felt characteristics, I prefer the beaver. The beaver is thinner and molds more like want felt to. I really like them both and have no regrets getting them both. The Agnoulita in marine blue is a nice hat that is soft, conforms to my head perfectly, and is easy to travel with. However, it’s immediately apparent when handling the hats that the Agnoulita is outclassed by the others, but it’s a perfectly acceptable hat that I wear often.

Great comparison, Brent. Alle three in blue and yet so different.

 

[Tukwila]

After some years in the hat "hobby" I look at the progression of individual hats.... how they came to me and how they have changed, as I have changed, over time. Maybe this warrants a unique thread, all its own?!?

This hat came to me new, freshly bashed by John Penman at his Hillsboro, Oregon, shop. An Indy style factory hat of acceptable quality that can be purchased off the shelf and bashed to any number of Indiana Jones configurations... Raiders, Temple of Doom, etc., etc.

Some time later, I got the itch to change things up a bit. I am a fan of the Indiana Jones movies, but not fanatical about it. I love hats. My tastes were changing, and I started a pot to boil on the stovetop to generate steam to change my bash from center crease to diamond. Heresy for an Indy fanboy, no?

Now a full 5 years later, I am fairly "over" the fascination with Indy style hats, even though I thought this specimen was nice enough. I took the hat to Mike Miller of NW Hats with instructions to reblock the hat to fit my particular egghead, replace the Everyman embossed sweatband with a new leather sweat, and to trash the Indy ribbon for a maroon grosgrain number treated to a "Boxcar" and "Shark Gills" creation. The diamond bash would be retained, steamed in for good measure.

I loved the hat when I first took possession, have loved it all along, and love it even more now. I suppose it is just the progression of a hat in and of the life of a humble hat wearer.

 

[alanfgag]

A brief look at some traditional (optimo) montecristi hats from my collection. They range from 1920s to 1950s and weaves @400 to @1000wpi.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Thinking about the felt of this particular Byer-Rolnick era Resistol 3X with hand-felted edge I realized I had forgotten about another hat I have with felt of similar quality. Both will take crease after crease dry while you search for that perfect look.

Resistol 3X

Dunlap Supreme 4X BE

Resistol

Dunlap

Resistol

Dunlap

Dunlap

 

[Blare]

Thinking about the felt of this particular Byer-Rolnick era Resistol 3X with hand-felted edge I realized I had forgotten about another hat I have with felt of similar quality. Both will take crease after crease dry while you search for that perfect look.

Resistol 3X

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Dunlap Supreme 4X BE

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Resistol

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Dunlap

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Resistol

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Dunlap

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Dunlap

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Two great hats HJ

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Two great hats HJ

Thanks Joe! I need to get the Dunlap out.

 

[steur]

Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

Berteil

Laubin

Mossant

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

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Berteil
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Laubin
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Mossant
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Well done! I have not thought about the flanging differences of homburgs. They are obvious when I see them worn. Your comparison pics that show the flanging differences make it an AH HA moment for me. The dramatic up-turned side flange almost has a western-like flair to it.

Thanks for the comparison post. I am off in a bit to search up some Lord's Hats to compare to your homburgs. Seeing the pics should better pin the differences for me.

Cheers, Eric -

 

[mayserwegener]

Here is Edward VII (center) wearing an early Homburg and it has extreme Brim Curl and Crown tapper. He brought this style to England from Bad Homburg, Germany.

This is common for early Central European (same with Italy) Curled Brim Soft Felt Hats.

"Homburger Hat Story" from "Gut behutet" Hat Museum of Bad Homburg v. d. Höhe (1985)

"Gut behutet" Hat Museum of Bad Homburg v. d. Höhe (1985). I picked up this pamphlet back when I first visited the museum in January of 2016. The following is the section on the Homburg Hat and the company (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) that first produced it for Edward Prince of Wa...

germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Here is Edward VII (center) wearing an early Homburg and it has extreme Brim Curl and Crown tapper. He brought this style to England from Bad Homburg, Germany.

This is common for early Central European (same with Italy) Curled Brim Soft Felt Hats.

"Homburger Hat Story" from "Gut behutet" Hat Museum of Bad Homburg v. d. Höhe (1985)

"Gut behutet" Hat Museum of Bad Homburg v. d. Höhe (1985). I picked up this pamphlet back when I first visited the museum in January of 2016. The following is the section on the Homburg Hat and the company (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) that first produced it for Edward Prince of Wa...

germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com

Thanks for this add to the thread.

 

[steur]

Well done! I have not thought about the flanging differences of homburgs. They are obvious when I see them worn. Your comparison pics that show the flanging differences make it an AH HA moment for me. The dramatic up-turned side flange almost has a western-like flair to it.

Thanks for the comparison post. I am off in a bit to search up some Lord's Hats to compare to your homburgs. Seeing the pics should better pin the differences for me.

Cheers, Eric -

Thank you, Eric. These are always fun to do, but it takes quite a bit of time digging up all the hats to compare out of the pile.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Yesterday evening I gallivanted about first wearing a Dalton with "Mistery Felt. " This bright white felt is supple and easy creased/uncreased. The bound brim (2 7/8") appears larger and emphasizes the swoopy blocking. Fun hat to wear.

I completed some yard chores and was back inside and saw a similar hat on my hat rack that had some similar characteristics. I picked up a Knox "Comfit." I wore it for grilling dinner duties.

The superb leather sweat treatment makes this hat totally comfy and light on the head when wearing. The felt has a cool dull-white felt. As with Knox of this date and lineage the felt is glorious.

The two hats are more alike than different in the feel of the felt in the hand. They are different, but each superb. I have put them into shared pics below.


The Dalton is on the right and the Knox is on the left.

Cheers, Eric -

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Yesterday evening I gallivanted about first wearing a Dalton with "Mistery Felt. " This bright white felt is supple and easy creased/uncreased. The bound brim (2 7/8") appears larger and emphasizes the swoopy blocking. Fun hat to wear.

I completed some yard chores and was back inside and saw a similar hat on my hat rack that had some similar characteristics. I picked up a Cavanaugh "Comfit." I wore it for grilling dinner duties.

The superb leather sweat treatment makes this hat totally comfy and light on the head when wearing. The felt has a cool dull-white felt. As with Cavanaugh's of this date and lineage the felt is glorious.

The two hats are more alike than different in the feel of the felt in the hand. They are different, but each superb. I have put them into shared pics below.


The Dalton is on the right and the Cavanaugh is on the left.

Cheers, Eric -

Stunning. I don’t have much of a chance of finding a Dalton so I appreciate the opportunity to experience it vicariously through you.

Having so many grand hats it has to happen from time to time, but I think you mixed up your Cavanagh with a Knox…wish it was a problem I could have.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Stunning. I don’t have much of a chance of finding a Dalton so I appreciate the opportunity to experience it vicariously through you.

Having so many grand hats it has to happen from time to time, but I think you mixed up your Cavanagh with a Knox…wish it was a problem I could have.

Truth! I edited the post. Thanks Brent

 

[Blare]

Yesterday evening I gallivanted about first wearing a Dalton with "Mistery Felt. " This bright white felt is supple and easy creased/uncreased. The bound brim (2 7/8") appears larger and emphasizes the swoopy blocking. Fun hat to wear.

I completed some yard chores and was back inside and saw a similar hat on my hat rack that had some similar characteristics. I picked up a Knox "Comfit." I wore it for grilling dinner duties.

The superb leather sweat treatment makes this hat totally comfy and light on the head when wearing. The felt has a cool dull-white felt. As with Knox of this date and lineage the felt is glorious.

The two hats are more alike than different in the feel of the felt in the hand. They are different, but each superb. I have put them into shared pics below.


The Dalton is on the right and the Knox is on the left.

Cheers, Eric -

Two stunning hats. Thanks for the side by sides

 

[Blare]

my latest arrival Marathon in charcoal grey inspired me to pull out my tan Marathon in similar style. Decided to give it a fresh steaming and a Side by Side was in order

I believe based on the liner logo and sweatband that the tan Marathon is the older of the two. I guess early 1950s on the tan while the grey is probably later 50s to early 60s. The brim of this tan a bit larger a 2 1/2 vs 2 1/4 on the grey. Both crowns about the same size sitting around 4 3/4 as shaped. They both sport the marathon signature gills ribbon treatment. The sweatband on the tan hat a lighter shade of brown feels more supple and maybe a bit thicker. The grey has a darker brown with a grain texture. The tan is tagged size 7… while the grey 7 1/4 so it sits a bit lower on my ears. The tan Marathon has long been a favorite and Happy to have them both in the stable

 

[Short Balding Guy]

I swear I wear hats, but not "hard." My hat sweat is showing the strain of wearing it.

I sipped some cold brew after raking in the yard. I wore a Stetson OR Twenty Five (w/Gold crown liner) as my hat. I have been wearing this hat for chores over the years and the leather sweat is beginning to really show the strain of my efforts. While I do wear many hats to save on the wear and tear of my hats it is clear I reach for this hat often.

Recognizing the wear on the leather sweat had me pulling out other similar hats and putting them in a position to be more readily reached. My thought is to save wear and tear on this Stetson OR 25. Spread the wear. I choose a small stack of OR's.

This stack is towards the back of my shelves and I moved it up front. As many of us do, fancier, other felt hues and generally more desirable "oldster" OR's, occuppy our "hat racks" but this style hat is one I characteristically reach for first when heading outside for efforts.

I thought I would share a few Stetson OR's that comprise the stack of wearable chore hats. Pictured below are three of the silverbelly hued felt Stetson OR's.

From left to right: Sovereign Stetson Twenty-Five Open Road, Stetson 3X Open Road and a Stetson Open Road Twenty-five.

Left to right; Sovereign Stetson Twenty-Five Open Road.

Stetson 3X Open Road.

Stetson Open Road Twenty-five.

I selected the Stetson 3X Open Road to complete my afternoon efforts under.

Cheers to all, Eric -

 

[Blare]

I swear I wear hats, but not "hard." My hat sweat is showing the strain of wearing it.

I sipped some cold brew after raking in the yard. I wore a Stetson OR Twenty Five (w/Gold crown liner) as my hat. I have been wearing this hat for chores over the years and the leather sweat is beginning to really show the strain of my efforts. While I do wear many hats to save on the wear and tear of my hats it is clear I reach for this hat often.

Recognizing the wear on the leather sweat had me pulling out other similar hats and putting them in a position to be more readily reached. My thought is to save wear and tear on this Stetson OR 25. Spread the wear. I choose a small stack of OR's.

This stack is towards the back of my shelves and I moved it up front. As many of us do, fancier, other felt hues and generally more desirable "oldster" OR's, occuppy our "hat racks" but this style hat is one I characteristically reach for first when heading outside for efforts.

I thought I would share a few Stetson OR's that comprise the stack of wearable chore hats. Pictured below are three of the silverbelly hued felt Stetson OR's.

From left to right: Sovereign Stetson Twenty-Five Open Road, Stetson 3X Open Road and a Stetson Open Road Twenty-five.

Left to right; Sovereign Stetson Twenty-Five Open Road.

Stetson 3X Open Road.

Stetson Open Road Twenty-five.

I selected the Stetson 3X Open Road to complete my afternoon efforts under.

Cheers to all, Eric -

A fine working stable indeed

 

[BobHufford]

1950s Resistol "Regents"

 

[BobHufford]

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