Side By Side/ Hat Comparisons

[mayserwegener]

I received a clarification on Grip (in German Griff).

Hello Daniele, Thanks for the great information. I will ask him for clarification. I asked for clarification but now that I look at it again it might be "good feel".

I asked for clarification but it could also be "good feel". Hopefully I get a reply.

I received clarification from Mr. Menschel. This was a translation issue on my part. I later saw that the German word "Griff" could mean "feel" in English.

"Under good "Griff", the hat specialist understands a pleasantly soft feel of the hat surface."

 

[steur]

The hardest part of these comparisons is finding the hats to compare. Had to dig through quite a pile of hats to find all of my brown homburg hats, but here they are. From top left to bottom right: J. Heinricht ITA, Resolut, Barbisio, P&C Habig, Borsalino and Knox Superfine. Interesting beast is the brown homburg, straddling the gap between the formality of the homburg model and the brown colours that are usually reserved for country wear and leisure. That's why you don't see too many of them and homburgs in black and grey associated with city wear are far more common. Blue is even more rare, but my guess is that it may have to do with the technical difficulty of that colour for felt.
But who cares much for these formal things nowadays? I find brown homburgs very versatile hats that go with just about anything.
I have to admit there's not much between them. Homburgs are usually not for everyday wear and more often than not high end hats. It shows: all of these are very well made and very well finished. Where most modern homburgs fail is the way the brim is rolled and curved, which cannot compare to the way it used to be done. Al of these have that down to perfection.
The variation is to be found in the various shades of brown and the combinations with the ribbons. From very light, like the Borsalino and the Knox to very dark, like the Habig and the Barbisio.

All of these are older homburgs too. This shows in their dimensions: all of them have crowns between 10,5 and 11,5 cm at the pinch (the Knox having the tallest crown) and brims between 5 and 7cm (again the Knox with the widest brim). Bow treatments are very restrained; the Knox with its twisted keeper and the ITA with the angled bow are the most frivolous of the lot.
Restraint again where the ribbon and brim binding colours are concerned. Borsalino and Habig stay as close to the felt colour as possible. The ITA and Resolut chosse some contrast with a lighter colour. And the Barbisio and Knox have the most constrast, the Knox even opting for different colours for ribbon and brim binding.
As for shapes and pinches and the arch of the brim: these are down to personal taste really and the front to back arch can be adapted when shaping the hat. In the picture below the Resolut shows a fairly proncounced arch with the side brims curving upward (which I like). I end to keep a center dent in all of them and the pinches shallow, lest they forget they are still homburgs.

All of them except the ITA are lined.
There you go: the brown homburg: perfect hat for the country gentleman (small wonder I have two more on their way to me).

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, Really great to see them all lined up!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

There you go: the brown homburg: perfect hat for the country gentleman (small wonder I have two more on their way to me).

To complete the Stefan brown homburgs collection
Barbisio Classic

Borsalino

 

[mayserwegener]

Super additions!

 

[splintercellsz]

Not much of a comparison, just showing two of my lightest colored felts.

Both hats feel to be extremely lightweight, though the C&K feels slightly more "dense".

1930s Dobbs "Cross Country"
-Pale Blue. Crown Vent.

1930s C&K "The Admiral"
- White/ivory colored felt.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[Steinbockhase]

Not much of a comparison, just showing two of my lightest colored felts.

Both hats feel to be extremely lightweight, though the C&K feels slightly more "dense".

1930s Dobbs "Cross Country"
-Pale Blue. Crown Vent.

1930s C&K "The Admiral"
- White/ivory colored felt.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

They look almost identical on the outside

 

[Steinbockhase]

The hardest part of these comparisons is finding the hats to compare. Had to dig through quite a pile of hats to find all of my brown homburg hats, but here they are. From top left to bottom right: J. Heinricht ITA, Resolut, Barbisio, P&C Habig, Borsalino and Knox Superfine. Interesting beast is the brown homburg, straddling the gap between the formality of the homburg model and the brown colours that are usually reserved for country wear and leisure. That's why you don't see too many of them and homburgs in black and grey associated with city wear are far more common. Blue is even more rare, but my guess is that it may have to do with the technical difficulty of that colour for felt.
But who cares much for these formal things nowadays? I find brown homburgs very versatile hats that go with just about anything.
I have to admit there's not much between them. Homburgs are usually not for everyday wear and more often than not high end hats. It shows: all of these are very well made and very well finished. Where most modern homburgs fail is the way the brim is rolled and curved, which cannot compare to the way it used to be done. Al of these have that down to perfection.
The variation is to be found in the various shades of brown and the combinations with the ribbons. From very light, like the Borsalino and the Knox to very dark, like the Habig and the Barbisio.
View attachment 130456

View attachment 130457

All of these are older homburgs too. This shows in their dimensions: all of them have crowns between 10,5 and 11,5 cm at the pinch (the Knox having the tallest crown) and brims between 5 and 7cm (again the Knox with the widest brim). Bow treatments are very restrained; the Knox with its twisted keeper and the ITA with the angled bow are the most frivolous of the lot.
Restraint again where the ribbon and brim binding colours are concerned. Borsalino and Habig stay as close to the felt colour as possible. The ITA and Resolut chosse some contrast with a lighter colour. And the Barbisio and Knox have the most constrast, the Knox even opting for different colours for ribbon and brim binding.
As for shapes and pinches and the arch of the brim: these are down to personal taste really and the front to back arch can be adapted when shaping the hat. In the picture below the Resolut shows a fairly proncounced arch with the side brims curving upward (which I like). I end to keep a center dent in all of them and the pinches shallow, lest they forget they are still homburgs.

View attachment 130458

View attachment 130459

All of them except the ITA are lined.
There you go: the brown homburg: perfect hat for the country gentleman (small wonder I have two more on their way to me).

Impressive

 

[steur]

Stefan, Really great to see them all lined up!

To complete the Stefan brown homburgs collection
Barbisio Classic

Borsalino

Super additions!

Impressive

Thanks, gentlemen! With the two Italian additions and one French one in wool (actually a lords hat) I have something to choose!

 

[Redfokker]

Not much of a comparison, just showing two of my lightest colored felts.

Both hats feel to be extremely lightweight, though the C&K feels slightly more "dense".

1930s Dobbs "Cross Country"
-Pale Blue. Crown Vent.

1930s C&K "The Admiral"
- White/ivory colored felt.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

What I find amazing is how these two old hats have remained so pristine and unstained over their history. This comparison is one of my favorites of this thread. You are da man!

 

[Redfokker]

The hardest part of these comparisons is finding the hats to compare. Had to dig through quite a pile of hats to find all of my brown homburg hats, but here they are. From top left to bottom right: J. Heinricht ITA, Resolut, Barbisio, P&C Habig, Borsalino and Knox Superfine. Interesting beast is the brown homburg, straddling the gap between the formality of the homburg model and the brown colours that are usually reserved for country wear and leisure. That's why you don't see too many of them and homburgs in black and grey associated with city wear are far more common. Blue is even more rare, but my guess is that it may have to do with the technical difficulty of that colour for felt.
But who cares much for these formal things nowadays? I find brown homburgs very versatile hats that go with just about anything.
I have to admit there's not much between them. Homburgs are usually not for everyday wear and more often than not high end hats. It shows: all of these are very well made and very well finished. Where most modern homburgs fail is the way the brim is rolled and curved, which cannot compare to the way it used to be done. Al of these have that down to perfection.
The variation is to be found in the various shades of brown and the combinations with the ribbons. From very light, like the Borsalino and the Knox to very dark, like the Habig and the Barbisio.
View attachment 130456

View attachment 130457

All of these are older homburgs too. This shows in their dimensions: all of them have crowns between 10,5 and 11,5 cm at the pinch (the Knox having the tallest crown) and brims between 5 and 7cm (again the Knox with the widest brim). Bow treatments are very restrained; the Knox with its twisted keeper and the ITA with the angled bow are the most frivolous of the lot.
Restraint again where the ribbon and brim binding colours are concerned. Borsalino and Habig stay as close to the felt colour as possible. The ITA and Resolut chosse some contrast with a lighter colour. And the Barbisio and Knox have the most constrast, the Knox even opting for different colours for ribbon and brim binding.
As for shapes and pinches and the arch of the brim: these are down to personal taste really and the front to back arch can be adapted when shaping the hat. In the picture below the Resolut shows a fairly proncounced arch with the side brims curving upward (which I like). I end to keep a center dent in all of them and the pinches shallow, lest they forget they are still homburgs.

View attachment 130458

View attachment 130459

All of them except the ITA are lined.
There you go: the brown homburg: perfect hat for the country gentleman (small wonder I have two more on their way to me).

I don't know how I missed seeing this comparison when posted. Very in depth and reflective. And major hat porn! Seeing all of these together is such a treat. Now, black please. I could do one, seems like I have a plethora of burgs of late. You are an artiste Stefan.

 

[splintercellsz]

They look almost identical on the outside

Almost!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[splintercellsz]

What I find amazing is how these two old hats have remained so pristine and unstained over their history. This comparison is one of my favorites of this thread. You are da man!

I agree! Sadly the crofut has some moth damage, but is stain free. It's safe to say that these or probably not worn often

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[Frunobulax]

A little project I started a couple of weeks ago, and figured this is the best place to put it. I have been returning some of my vintage hats and others to open crown and photographing their profiles. I thought it might be a good comparison exercise to illustrate the subtle differences in block shapes and taper. I still have some others I want to photograph, so let's call this Phase I. Perhaps others will join in.

First up, a 1950s Whippet. Crown height, 5 1/2" - brim width 2 1/2".

Next, an OPS-era Dobbs Cross Country

Crown: 5 1/2", Brim: 2 3/8"

1950s Stetson Stratoliner. Crown 5 1/2" Brim: 2 1/2"

 

[Frunobulax]

Modern, Excellent Quality Stratoliner. Crown: 5 1/2" Brim 2 1/2"

The "Frunoliner," vintage hat body blocked by me on a #52. Crown: 5 1/2" Brim: 2 1/2"

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Great idea Jim and useful!
If block #s are available that would be a nice addition.
B

 

[Frunobulax]

Great idea Jim and useful!
If block #s are available that would be a nice addition.
B

That's why I was sticking mostly with named models. We have discussions about such things as the differences between Strats and ORs, modern vs vintage Whippets and the like. I thought this exercise would be good for that. I'll try to get an OR up soon.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

L-R:

Mallory by Stetson, Little Dogie, 3X in Sand Peble
3" raw edge brim, 2-cord ribbon, 4-1/2" at crease, mule kicks.

Resistol Ft. Worth, Byer-Rolnick BR Beaver "30", in Palomino
3" raw edge brim, 2-cord ribbon, 4" at crease, mule kicks.

Sand Peble has tannish undertones where Palomino has light Sage. The Resistol is pounced to a thinner felt with a much nicer hand & finish than the 3X.

 

[steur]

I don't know how I missed seeing this comparison when posted. Very in depth and reflective. And major hat porn! Seeing all of these together is such a treat. Now, black please. I could do one, seems like I have a plethora of burgs of late. You are an artiste Stefan.

Seems I have missed this post before. Sorry, Mike and thanks. I might actually do a black homburg comparison; I like a bit of a challenge. See if i can get them all in one shot

 

[steur]

When mucking about with the new hats I noticed how much the Penney's Marathon and Meister Filz were alike. So I decided to put them together and take a few shots. Aside from the obvious differences like the ribbon treatment and the crease, these hats are very much alike. The Penney's has slightly more taper to the crown and is a somewhat warmer grey. The Penney's is an excellent hat with fine finishing but the Meister Filz does even better. It's the Penney's on the right (with the shark gill bow).