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Side By Side/ Hat Comparisons

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,143
Location
Somewhere in Time
1930s Stetson Standard Qualities
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Bushman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,138
Location
Joliet
Just got my Herbert Johnson Poet in the mail today, and wanted to compare it to my Coyle's Downtowner by Todd's Costumes. First off, I want to point out that unlike thing I noticed with the Poet is that, unlike the Downtowner, the Poet is NOT a costume piece or a cosplay hat. It's the real deal. The felt is thinner, with a more solid snap and a shape to it that the Downtowner lacks. The Downtowner always felt more like a Raiders repro, and that's all it was. It was meant to be worn with a pair of brown khakis and a bush shirt. It never seemed to look quite right with anything else. The Poet, however, is definitely as much a hat as anything else I own.

Poet:
MCMJDO0.png


Downtowner:
3U9qOBs.png


Side by side:
sniBsJx.jpg

RmjsGqH.jpg

msPpGzT.jpg


The felt is very light. You could easily see how this would be the choice of hat for a man who treks jungles and digs around in the ME and North Africa. It's about half as thick as the Downtowner, which was probably my thickest hat. I would compare the thickness on my Stetson Chatham, but not as supple and soft as my Chatham. My Chatham is almost too soft and has lost some of its shape. The Poet I would compare more to my Akubra Leisure Time in both softness and felt toughness. The Poet is maybe a tad less stiff, though.

Poet:
OP9i4I0.jpg


Downtowner:
TWtBm2g.jpg


The ribbon is also darker on the Poet than on the Downtowner. In direct light the Downtowner's ribbon takes on a bluish hue. It almost looks to be a midnight. Rather, the Poet has a very dark ribbon, I'd say closer to an extremely dark brown than a true black if only because the ribbon takes on some brown tones in some lighting. I didn't whip out my ruler, but just eyeing it, I think the Poet's ribbon is shorter, too. I think the shorter ribbon works for the hat, and have always felt that the ribbon on the Downtowner was too tall.

Poet:
WDfR3X8.jpg


Downtowner:
ZdzbhCI.jpg


To sum this up, in hand the Poet just feels more "right" than the downtowner. It's nearly featherlight, and just feels like I'm wearing something that is more original than the Downtowner. The Downtowner is definitely nice, and I'll probably keep it for a winter hat instead of selling it as I planned, but the Downter just feels far more like the real deal.
 

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,143
Location
Somewhere in Time
1910s George I. Eakle "Genuine Beaver"

Two examples from the same time period and make.

One is green and the other is brown.

Both have unreeded sweatbands, and have a long hair beaver finish. The felt is insanely soft, and after steaming, the hats can almost be creased by the touch of a finger.

The green hat has a raw edge brim, while the brown is done in an upbrim style.

The green has a "shot silk" liner, and the brown has none. I assume it did at one point but it is long gone.

Also, both hats are deadstock, and were found with quite a few other deadstock clothing & Eakle hats.

Brims:
- Green: 2 1/4"
- Brown: 2"

Open Crown
- Green 5 3/4"
- Brown 5 3/4"
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Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
1910s George I. Eakle "Genuine Beaver"

Two examples from the same time period and make.

One is green and the other is brown.

Both have unreeded sweatbands, and have a long hair beaver finish. The felt is insanely soft, and after steaming, the hats can almost be creased by the touch of a finger.

The green hat has a raw edge brim, while the brown is done in an upbrim style.

The green has a "shot silk" liner, and the brown has none. I assume it did at one point but it is long gone.

Also, both hats are deadstock, and were found with quite a few other deadstock clothing & Eakle hats.

Brims:
- Green: 2 1/4"
- Brown: 2"

Open Crown
- Green 5 3/4"
- Brown 5 3/4"
a1bd2d5e75740a2299984266adc28af2.jpg
0a596335a83a47f5a7c2a40493ee161b.jpg
50b8f9684db514e960913dafac4784a2.jpg
25ab2658bd7d2cec9197a3bc482a2c2b.jpg
509ab948f1d9171ede8c4e835a887602.jpg
7fe4932cdae7adb25b48a2970c96b4ca.jpg
dc60e4d03e964a9f899a943171b50a64.jpg
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You need to start an Eakle thread.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,143
Location
Somewhere in Time
1900s & 1920s Stetson "Extra Light Weight(s)"

Today, I am going to be comparing two early Stetson long hair soft felt hats.

The 1900s example is golden tan in color, the 20s example is black in color and is also designated as a "Clear Nutria".

Both hats are finished in a long hair/furry finish. with the 1900s example having an overwelt brim, where the 20s Nutria is raw edge.

The sweatbands are two different widths and are also attached using different stitching methods

1900s: 2" using the IIIII stitch

1920s: 1 7/8" using the VVVVV stitch
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Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
1900s & 1920s Stetson "Extra Light Weight(s)"

Today, I am going to be comparing two early Stetson long hair soft felt hats.

The 1900s example is golden tan in color, the 20s example is black in color and is also designated as a "Clear Nutria".

Both hats are finished in a long hair/furry finish. with the 1900s example having an overwelt brim, where the 20s Nutria is raw edge.

The sweatbands are two different widths and are also attached using different stitching methods

1900s: 2" using the IIIII stitch

1920s: 1 7/8" using the VVVVV stitch
bc2671df5460739b00ea646178ff8145.jpg
335d74aebb7a3d9c5a82066dd0e256b3.jpg
dda115286c73b1c6a6044691cb3c4fe6.jpg
9916c0af5189fbc68df4a54ff45f8ee8.jpg
f3dd353720019f00c2fd215016c1bb94.jpg
cbc6f615638be0ea8db7f33cb5725752.jpg
Great comparison of two museum piece hats Justin.
 
Messages
18,588
Location
Nederland
1900s & 1920s Stetson "Extra Light Weight(s)"

Today, I am going to be comparing two early Stetson long hair soft felt hats.

The 1900s example is golden tan in color, the 20s example is black in color and is also designated as a "Clear Nutria".

Both hats are finished in a long hair/furry finish. with the 1900s example having an overwelt brim, where the 20s Nutria is raw edge.

The sweatbands are two different widths and are also attached using different stitching methods

1900s: 2" using the IIIII stitch

1920s: 1 7/8" using the VVVVV stitch
bc2671df5460739b00ea646178ff8145.jpg
335d74aebb7a3d9c5a82066dd0e256b3.jpg
dda115286c73b1c6a6044691cb3c4fe6.jpg
9916c0af5189fbc68df4a54ff45f8ee8.jpg
f3dd353720019f00c2fd215016c1bb94.jpg
cbc6f615638be0ea8db7f33cb5725752.jpg
Fantastic, Justin. Wonderful to see these side by side. Are the side dents indeed more or less the standard for hats of that period in your experience?
 

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,143
Location
Somewhere in Time
I see more side dents the older we go. Front creases were also around, but side dents seemed to be prominent, and look to suit the early blocking more naturally. I'll have to look at old photos again and try to tally up what i see more of. would be a fun little "experiment".
Fantastic, Justin. Wonderful to see these side by side. Are the side dents indeed more or less the standard for hats of that period in your experience?
 
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
I see more side dents the older we go. Front creases were also around, but side dents seemed to be prominent, and look to suit the early blocking more naturally. I'll have to look at old photos again and try to tally up what i see more of. would be a fun little "experiment".
In general Center Crease with Side Dents with such hats in period. Also Brim Up (even if possible to snap) as displayed.
 

Short Balding Guy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,880
Location
Minnesota, USA
I have posted different Stetson Playboy pics in the past. Apologies to those who see these as repeats. These two hats are newer to my hatrack since the post here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/side-by-side-hat-comparisons.65983/page-25#post-1993050 . I was curious this morning. Someday in the future I need to gather all the Bon Vivants together and take a family shot.

This morning I was steaming some hats and took a couple of the vintage Stetson's out for a couple of comparison pics. I was just curious as to how the 2 Playboys (unlined and lined) compared. Your eyes will tell the results.

i-qBM8v3H-M.jpg


Both hats are a lovely light gray hue. Gray with not a lot of blue hue to the felt. I have a blue Playboy of similar age and the blue hues are much different. Indeed both hats have ribbons that match the hat felt color. The hat in the above pic left is lined. The other is unlined.

i-jnSJ6qh-M.jpg



For reference here is a gray hat were the ribbon has aged (patina) that shows a different hue. It is a lovely "electric blue hue" that is a stunner. Not a match, just patina.

i-XQSxNv6-M.jpg


A closer pic of the insides. Both hats brims measure the same. Both hats crowns measure the same.

i-VrwmbP2-M.jpg


Lined hat at the bottom in this pic.

i-hqdTjRs-M.jpg


Thanks for letting me share my visual investigation today.

Best, Eric -
 
Last edited:
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I have posted different Stetson Playboy pics in the past. Apologies to those who see these as repeats. These two hats are newer to my hatrack since the post here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/side-by-side-hat-comparisons.65983/page-25#post-1993050 . I was curious this morning. Someday in the future I need to gather all the Bon Vivants together and take a family shot.

This morning I was steaming some hats and took a couple of the vintage Stetson's out for a couple of comparison pics. I was just curious as to how the 2 Playboys (unlined and lined) compared. Your eyes will tell the results.

i-qBM8v3H-M.jpg


Both hats are a lovely light gray hue. Gray with not a lot of blue hue to the felt. I have a blue Playboy of similar age and the blue hues are much different. Indeed both hats have ribbons that match the hat felt color. The hat in the above pic left is lined. The other is unlined.

i-jnSJ6qh-M.jpg



For reference here is a gray hat were the ribbon has aged (patina) that shows a different hue. It is a lovely "electric blue hue" that is a stunner. Not a match, just patina.

i-XQSxNv6-M.jpg


A closer pic of the insides. Both hats brims measure the same. Both hats crowns measure the same.

i-VrwmbP2-M.jpg


Lined hat at the bottom in this pic.

i-hqdTjRs-M.jpg


Thanks for letting me share my visual investigation today.

Best, Eric -
I just love seeing these comparisons. The subtle differences in the felts are really interesting. Thank you for uplifting my evening.
 

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