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Side By Side/ Hat Comparisons

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
Flechet shorthair

This is the first episode dedicated to hats finishing with a short hair felt.
The finish is called in Italian Specchio ("Mirror" named after the French finish with iron that gives subtle sheen and shine to the hair).
The felt is presented as an iridescent surface according to the illumination given by the luster of the hair.
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Today, in a mild and sunny day I compared two Flechet, never worn, which date back to the 60s or maybe the fifties.
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Both are "small" Homburg (the shape is very similar to the pre-war luxury hats from EU) and according to the label inside the color is black.
anestt.jpg

You can see how they change in the sunlight.
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The felt is very pliable and lend themselves to be shaped at will.
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The finishes are top class.
Soon some other comparison.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
Borsalino vs Flechet shorthair

Today it's time for the second episode of comparisions. I have time preparing the birthday of my daughter Ginevra.
On the sunny stage a Borsalino Miele (color Seppia) and a Flechet Century de Luxe deep brown
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Finishing of felt is similar to the touch, but completely different to the eyes.
The Borsalino is semi-dull and Flechet is opaque. More malleable the felt French, more wiry the Italian. Both are perfectly pliable.
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As for the two blacks Flechet yesterday is interesting to note the work of the light on the short haired felt.
The colors varied to the luster of the material that is magnificent in its change.
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The finishes of the two hats, which are luxury category, are superbs.
sf9ily.jpg

For fans of the theme there will be a next episode ....... meanwhile enjoy this
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Thanks for the second episode. Fantastic finishes on both hats. I really like the color of the Borsalino. Looking forward to your next installment. Also congrats to your daughter!
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
Flechet vs Tirard

Thanks for your kind words and encouragement.
This in comparison were almost a typical European production of great quality and charm.
The day was fantastic with strong sunshine and clear skies.
The cold is appropriate at the end of January.
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This is the third and final episode dedicated to finishing of short haired French felt.
Two hats on stage this afternoon: Tirard and Flechet.
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Both were made between the years fifties and sixties. You can reconize from their form and their brims not particularly large.
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They are in two shades of gray: anthracite for Flechet and gray iron for Tirard.
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Direct sunlight is the best way to see the shades of shorthaired felt change according to the angle. This finish is very common in French hats also less luxurious than these.
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Have fun and know that in the present day is very difficult have finished hats so masterfully.
It is a pity, so let's enjoy what we have
 
Messages
15,073
Location
Buffalo, NY
Six Toppers Side by Side

Open the first photo in a new window to see it full size.

toppercomparison1.jpg


The dates on the three to the left are accurate to a year or two based on provenance. The three to the right are estimates based on markings and store histories. The two nineteenth century toppers have 7 1/4" crowns, 2 1/4" brims. The other four share similar dimensions - a crown height of 5 1/2", brims 2 inches or a little less.

toppercomparison2.jpg


The older hat appears less belled at the top of the crown, though differences in condition may account for some of this.

toppercomparison3.jpg

toppercomparison4.jpg

toppercomparison5.jpg


Both of the old hats have paper linings, oilcloth sweatbands reeded at the flange, glued to the crown on the other end. Both sides of the brim are covered in silk plush.

toppercomparison6.jpg


By the early twentieth century, the topper is trimmed more like other hats... the interior liner is silk and the sweatband is supple leather with a decorative bow. The brim is finished with wide binding and a d'Orsay curl, underneath it has lost its silk plush lining.

toppercomparison7.jpg


The Stetson opera hat is quite heavy with its metal gibus folding mechanism. The sweatband is soft kid patent leather that is sewn as a continuation of the lining. No clue as to the maker of the private label B.Altman hat. The crown has a fuller profile and less of a bell shape than the examples from a decade or two earlier, but the height remains about the same.
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
I find your comparison of top hats really interesting. It's, to this day, almost impossible to see such a full and meaningful fashion show of top hats that no longer have a common use.
I prefer latest toppers (1930) in form and approach. Bravo Alan!
I want to add a little story (in the serie: every hat tells a story): a long time ago the local police of Verona wore a top hat told in dialect "cana".
2uyrtkm.jpg
1870 circa
Until a few years ago, when the dialect was spoken fluently, the arrival of the police was called "'riva i cana" That litterally means: "top hats are arriving"
Congratulations for the collection and your specific knowledge.:eusa_clap
 
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Messages
15,073
Location
Buffalo, NY
Interesting note, Daniele and thank you... for the comments and for your participation in this thread. I also lean towards the look of the later era top hats and truth be told, I've never worn one outside other than to take a photo. The early hats are an anachronism (unless you are dressing up for a comic or science fiction convention). I've thought I might wear the C&K topper to one of my daughter's weddings when the time comes. It was worn only once at the original owner's wedding in 1915. But part of me is hoping for a party where a top hat won't be required. :eeek:
 
Messages
15,073
Location
Buffalo, NY
Thanks Perry. Everyone loves the workbench except for Donna, who has wanted it out of the dining room for 30 years. I did tell her it would go in the basement when we bought it. :)
 

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