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Show us your Trousers!

pmjk

New in Town
Messages
38
Location
Canadian in Vietnam
Thank you DH66,

The only thing that sort of irritates me, as I am not used to them, is the reversed pleats he decided to do. They face inward towards the zipper.
The tailor said he can do a three peice suit in whatever style and material for $150. I have to curb my impusles or I won't be able to fit everything in my luggage when I go home.
 
Messages
13,678
Location
down south
Thank you DH66,

The only thing that sort of irritates me, as I am not used to them, is the reversed pleats he decided to do. They face inward towards the zipper.
The tailor said he can do a three peice suit in whatever style and material for $150. I have to curb my impusles or I won't be able to fit everything in my luggage when I go home.
I'd say indulge those impulses and buy an extra suitcase. You won't be able to get anything for prices like that once you're back in this hemisphere.
 

pmjk

New in Town
Messages
38
Location
Canadian in Vietnam
That's what I need DH66 an enabler, haha.

Here are pics of the brown. Specs. 15.5" front rise, 2" cuff, 22" around bottom leg opening.

Brown 1.jpg brown2.jpg brown3.jpg
 
Messages
13,678
Location
down south
Half-Hollywood?
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32f8679113dee53864d4153717e263eb.jpg

I've had these for quite some time, and today I notice that in the back they are made like drop-waist Hollywood style trousers, but they have a waistband sewn in across the front. I don't think I ever realized they were made that way, I've only ever paid attention to the front of them, because they are only one of two pairs I have that are single pleat. I always figured they were from the 50s, any thoughts on this?
 

Metatron

One Too Many
Messages
1,536
Location
United Kingdom
Thank you DH66,

The only thing that sort of irritates me, as I am not used to them, is the reversed pleats he decided to do. They face inward towards the zipper.
The tailor said he can do a three peice suit in whatever style and material for $150. I have to curb my impusles or I won't be able to fit everything in my luggage when I go home.

It's funny, because I would describe what you got as 'regular' pleats and what you are used to as 'reverse' pleats. It's more of a European look, personally, I prefer it. More streamlined.
 

MrCairo

Familiar Face
Messages
66
Location
NL
Untitled.jpg

Not the clearest picture, but this linen number is my favorite pair of trousers for high temperatures!
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,846
Location
New Forest
My missus loses herself for hours rummaging around clothes stalls at the various vintage events that we go to. It will invariably pay dividends, these trousers are a classic example. Made from calico, they had a taper, were much too big in the waist and were about three inches too long. She took the waist apart, separated the leg seems and unpicked the trouser hems. Then she removed the zip fly, with the intention of replacing the fly with buttons but there wasn't enough material to hide the buttons correctly so a period correct zip was inserted. She then created a turned up cuff and in the process shortened the length to fit me.

After that she sewed the trouser seems to create a wider aspect and finally, she sewed back the crotch seem and then, after reducing it, the waistband. Now I have a classic pair of period trousers for the measly cost of just eight pounds. The colour is superb, it will match or contrast most shades of blue, on a hot day like today, they go perfectly with an Aloha shirt, and what better than blue and white spectators to complete: "My Blue Heaven?"
trousers 003.JPG
trousers-1.png
 

Tommy-VF51

A-List Customer
Messages
371
Just acquired a pair of early 50's American flecked cream flannels. Hems are pretty narrow, about 8.7'', so not full pegs yet. Very nicely balanced vintage trousers though, still hoping to procure a pair of 30's cream flannels as well.
dNO7Oz8.jpg
ysqllkf.jpg

Gorgeous waistband, could them be let out at all at the hem, since I'm guessing they were later taken in? Or maybe it was done as a statement by the original owner?
 

MondoFW

Practically Family
Messages
852
Gorgeous waistband, could them be let out at all at the hem, since I'm guessing they were later taken in? Or maybe it was done as a statement by the original owner?
I don't think they were ever tapered. Hems this narrow (pegs) were already quite popular this early, and of course American trousers tapered down to around 8'' at the end of the decade.
 

Tommy-VF51

A-List Customer
Messages
371
3579978aba4f842f2230f84416007b62.jpg


Case in point, Cary Grant late 30s. Practically Ivy League (in the slightly more dandyish style of the college man of the 30s) . Like Gable, who had even squared shoulders, a more natural shoulder on his sports coat suits him.

I used to pretty seriously follow the Ivy Look of the mid 50s to mid 60s, but I found my tastes widening eventually. Fortunately a lot of the more expensive stuff has a wider time frame, at least where I went for a wider, more classic lapel for instance? I don't taper the legs as much as I used to though. These days anything less than a 9" hem (And I'm usually in a 10) feels like skinny fit!
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,846
Location
New Forest
My missus loses herself for hours rummaging around clothes stalls at the various vintage events that we go to. It will invariably pay dividends, these trousers are a classic example. Made from calico, they had a taper, were much too big in the waist and were about three inches too long. She took the waist apart, separated the leg seems and unpicked the trouser hems. Then she removed the zip fly, with the intention of replacing the fly with buttons but there wasn't enough material to hide the buttons correctly so a period correct zip was inserted. She then created a turned up cuff and in the process shortened the length to fit me.

After that she sewed the trouser seems to create a wider aspect and finally, she sewed back the crotch seem and then, after reducing it, the waistband. Now I have a classic pair of period trousers for the measly cost of just eight pounds. The colour is superb, it will match or contrast most shades of blue, on a hot day like today, they go perfectly with an Aloha shirt, and what better than blue and white spectators to complete: "My Blue Heaven?"
Repeat as above. My wife has a homing instinct for finding the perfect trousers. This pair were being thrown out by our friend's neighbour. Our friend rescued them, the neighbour admitted that he had only ever worn them once, then, having put on weight, left the trousers in a zipper bag in his wardrobe as an incentive to loose weight. I've been there myself. The trousers were huge on me, but Tina waved her wand over them and now they are a lovely, oxblood colour, straight legged pair of pants, with a modest, for me, fourteen inch bottoms.
Henley Blazer & Oxblod pants 001.JPG
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,846
Location
New Forest
Here are a favourite pair of mine. Back in the early 1990s I had three pairs of trousers made by a tailor. For each pair, she used basic, wide-legged, 1930s original patterns (she used to collect old patterns and fabrics from clothing factories) (one style with button down belt looks, one with a very wide belt loop and extra wide waistband, one with a narrow waistband). I later had them copied by a trouser makers named Spencers (in Yorkshire, England). Now, whenever I need a pair, I can simply phone them up, specify which pattern to use and which fabric. And they usually get them to me within a week. And they charge around £100. They are one of the few places that use very heavy cotton for trousers. They also have a good range of moleskin, cord and wool.
I think they do a damn good service. After all, where else am I going to buy a pair of 22 inch cuff white cotton trousers?

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It would be nice to think that you still lurk here, Two Types. Those made to measure white baggies are superb. You are right when you say, where else can you buy them. Did I see you posting on Simon's website? Your whites and Simon's new way of buying led me to the trousers page of his website: https://simonjamescathcart.com/collections/chinos

Former Lounger, simonc, that's Simon Cathcart, has brought a new model of vintage to the market. You have to be quick though, he does a run of something then moves on to something else. There's no time to think it over as such. Having seen Two Types 22" cuffed whites, I had a serious case of covet. Then I discovered that Simon had done something similar as you can see here.
SJC Trousers.jpg

But as ever, I was too late for that production run. However, I do have a very talented missus and she saw both Two Types trousers as well as Simon's. "You shall have your trousers," she said, "and just for good measure, I will have a pair too," she added.

That all came about when I put my cricket trousers in a bag for donation. Having spread a bit around the middle, they didn't fit comfortably. I could fasten them but my bulge hung over the waistband. The lady took them to her cabin, waved her wand over them and now they fit again. Being a modern shape, and having very little hem, there wasn't enough material to turn up a decent cuff, so best leave them as they are.
White trousers 001.JPG
To date my missus has made three pairs of high waisted, twenty two inch, cuffed hemmed, period trousers, in brown, burgundy and gun metal. The photo of the brown pair I have shown a few times, but it does show off the fabulous twenty two inch hems and the cuffs, so here's the photo once more. Watch this space for the whites.
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This is the gun metal pair with double breasted vest, you don't get the full impact given the dark colour, but I love the combination.
Grey waistcoat & baggies 011.JPG
 
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Tommy-VF51

A-List Customer
Messages
371

Another colour. These were far superior to last years Chinos from SJC which had grading issues which created a weird fit. I ended up sizing up twice and they still didn't fit right. I think Simon and his team have worked hard to fix this. Unfourtunately I didn't go to the recent Pop up Shop due to the fact I'm a key worker and was already avoiding unnecessary travel, so was unable to try any of the winter versions. Anyways the company actually has a forum (with several 'Loungers active on there) and we were actually able to discuss a lot about them. Hopefully this baggier style will return again?

I actually have a very well made pair of brown Hollywood waisted trousers from Lindy Lou's, which are similar in fit to the SJC chino pictured, but I always felt that although high quality the polyester they are made of doesn't quite look authentic
 

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