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avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
I can remember trousers with waist adjusters (which are NOT zipped) from 1952; they antedate zip flies which date from around 1960.
I know, some of my vintage suits have trousers like this. I always thought the zip adjusters became popular at the same as zip flies (early 60s) but Chausseur's suit seems to break this pattern by having a button fly (more traditional) with a zip adjuster (very modern for the 50s). Zip flies date back to the 30s as far as I'm aware but only made it to the UK in the late 50s.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
I know, some of my vintage suits have trousers like this. I always thought the zip adjusters became popular at the same as zip flies (early 60s) but Chausseur's suit seems to break this pattern by having a button fly (more traditional) with a zip adjuster (very modern for the 50s). Zip flies date back to the 30s as far as I'm aware but only made it to the UK in the late 50s.

I have a British suit dated 1946 with a zip fly. Zippers were around before the '30s, but that seems to be when they started gaining ground.
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
398254466.jpg

Oh my - those pants are simply beautiful. I really dig the zip waist adjusters. :eusa_clap
 
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Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
I'd imagine that that suit would be the exception rather than the rule though. Is it an American inspired suit by any chance?

It's very British, actually. It's also from a military tailor in Mayfair, a demob suit maybe? (I wonder if zips were used on some demob suits to speed production). All my other vintage British suits are button fly, which I prefer, though I have some odd trousers with zip flys.
 

Matt_the_chap

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Sheffield, England
It's very British, actually. It's also from a military tailor in Mayfair, a demob suit maybe? (I wonder if zips were used on some demob suits to speed production). All my other vintage British suits are button fly, which I prefer, though I have some odd trousers with zip flys.

Demob suits were made in the cheapest ways possible - in fact, most of the demob stuff I've read about from first-hand accounts at the time (Fraser springs to mind especially) is that choice and quality were both a lucky-dip and damn limited. You picked out a size that vaguely fitted from racks of separates in either brown or blue, matched up some shoes, a shirt and a tie and that was it. I may, of course, be wrong, but I doubt that any de-mob suit had anything as difficult and expensive to manufacture as zips.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Pictures are coming as soon as I receive the suit. I have been looking for a Vintage looking "Modern" suit for a while that I wouldn't be afraid to wear all the time. I have quite a few vintage overcoats and hats and know that even though the material is strong and far superior, a good amount of care must be taken with vintage clothing. I wanted a 3 piece suit that I could wear and if something happened to it, I wouldn't care so much. I have always loved James Cagney's suits from the early 30's with the high cut 6 button vests, high lapel jacket, and pleated pants. So many 3 piece suits that are made today use cuts and patterns that I'm not too crazy about. Magnoli Clothiers makes a beautiful recreation of Cagney's suits, but I didn't want to spend over $600 right now for a suit. I won this VERY close example on ebay today.

Its a EVAN PICONE and from what I understand was a pretty decent modern suit manufacture.
EVANPICONEsuit.jpg

EVAN PICONE MENS TAUPE/BROWN 3 PC SUIT 41 R 41R

Here's the picture from Magnoli:
MagnoliClothiersCagneySuit.jpg

Cagney Suit by Magnoli Clothiers

They both have the same exact features and cuts except for the fact that the EVAN PICONE has a notched lapel verses a peaked. The pants made by Magnoli Clothiers are much nicer with the watch pocket and braces buttons. For $50, I think I did alright. What do you guys think?
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
^^I'd say you did very well for that price. It looks like a classically cut suit in a nice material. You can always attatch brace buttons yourself if the trousers are high waisted enough.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
^^I'd say you did very well for that price. It looks like a classically cut suit in a nice material. You can always attatch brace buttons yourself if the trousers are high waisted enough.

Thank you very much, avedwards! I hope the trousers are fairly high waisted. If they are, I will have the belt loops removed and brace buttons attached. I can never wear a belt with a vest, it just doesn't fit right. It always makes the vest stick out on the bottom.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
Thank you very much, avedwards! I hope the trousers are fairly high waisted. If they are, I will have the belt loops removed and brace buttons attached. I can never wear a belt with a vest, it just doesn't fit right. It always makes the vest stick out on the bottom.
I'm going to hazard a guess that they are reasonably high waisted as most modern trousers which are made with pleats tend to be. It's the flat fronts which are always the low rise trousers. I would advise keeping the belt loops though so you have the option of wearing it with braces as a three piece suit and with a belt as a two piece suits. It was very common for American trousers in the Golden Era to come with belt loops and brace buttons, even three piece suits as the belt loops themselves won't cause the waistcoat to stick out.
 

birkie

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Syracuse
For $50, I think I did alright. What do you guys think?

That seems like an alright price for me! Nice find.

I'm going to hazard a guess that they are reasonably high waisted as most modern trousers which are made with pleats tend to be. It's the flat fronts which are always the low rise trousers.

That's a good point. I don't think I've seen any modern flat front trousers with significant rise.
 
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_Nightwing

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
Location
Gastonia
Great suit Joshbru. Those are some classic design features and for $50 it really shows the great stuff you can win on eBay. I mean some people will be walking around having paid more for the jeans and t-shirt they're wearing and will look at you in that suit and think "damn, but I would look that good too if I made his money." Love to see a pic of you wearing it and to hear what the people at your office comment.
 

Shangas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,116
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Pictures are coming as soon as I receive the suit. I have been looking for a Vintage looking "Modern" suit for a while that I wouldn't be afraid to wear all the time. I have quite a few vintage overcoats and hats and know that even though the material is strong and far superior, a good amount of care must be taken with vintage clothing. I wanted a 3 piece suit that I could wear and if something happened to it, I wouldn't care so much. I have always loved James Cagney's suits from the early 30's with the high cut 6 button vests, high lapel jacket, and pleated pants. So many 3 piece suits that are made today use cuts and patterns that I'm not too crazy about. Magnoli Clothiers makes a beautiful recreation of Cagney's suits, but I didn't want to spend over $600 right now for a suit. I won this VERY close example on ebay today.

Its a EVAN PICONE and from what I understand was a pretty decent modern suit manufacture.
EVANPICONEsuit.jpg

EVAN PICONE MENS TAUPE/BROWN 3 PC SUIT 41 R 41R

Here's the picture from Magnoli:
MagnoliClothiersCagneySuit.jpg

Cagney Suit by Magnoli Clothiers

They both have the same exact features and cuts except for the fact that the EVAN PICONE has a notched lapel verses a peaked. The pants made by Magnoli Clothiers are much nicer with the watch pocket and braces buttons. For $50, I think I did alright. What do you guys think?

Lovely suits! I especially like the brown one. Maybe it's the photo, but the grey one looks a bit worn.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
I'm going to hazard a guess that they are reasonably high waisted as most modern trousers which are made with pleats tend to be. It's the flat fronts which are always the low rise trousers. I would advise keeping the belt loops though so you have the option of wearing it with braces as a three piece suit and with a belt as a two piece suits. It was very common for American trousers in the Golden Era to come with belt loops and brace buttons, even three piece suits as the belt loops themselves won't cause the waistcoat to stick out.

Thanks, avedwards! I guess you right, I will probably just keep the belt loops on the pants. Chances are I will never wear this suit as a two piece because I can't stand the way that 2 piece single breasted suits look on me. I usually prefer double breasted or 3 piece. I will wear a single breasted sport coat but its usually a 3 button with a higher lapel.


That seems like an alright price for me! Nice find.

Great suit Joshbru. Those are some classic design features and for $50 it really shows the great stuff you can win on eBay. I mean some people will be walking around having paid more for the jeans and t-shirt they're wearing and will look at you in that suit and think "damn, but I would look that good too if I made his money." Love to see a pic of you wearing it and to hear what the people at your office comment.

Lovely suits! I especially like the brown one. Maybe it's the photo, but the grey one looks a bit worn.

Thank you everyone for your very kind words! I can't wait to receive this suit and wear it around Chicago. I will make sure to post some pics on the lounge.
 

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