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Show us your suits

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
There were actually two or three older DB suits around that would have fit me, last not least that truely beautiful specimen Baron Kurtz offered me about two month ago. Trouble is I'm definitely more of a SB guy myself and those seem to be rather scarce in my size (and that's a mild expression).
 

Salieri

One of the Regulars
Messages
107
Location
UK
What is your size - out of interest?

I've encountered quite a few decent SB 40s suits in larger sizes recently, although they certainly are scarcer.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
Mario said:
There were actually two or three older DB suits around that would have fit me, last not least that truely beautiful specimen Baron Kurtz offered me about two month ago. Trouble is I'm definitely more of a SB guy myself and those seem to be rather scarce in my size (and that's a mild expression).
The grey pinstriped DB suit you wore last year looked quite nice in my opinion. Personally I like both SB and DB so I try to have an equal mix of both in my wardrobe.

Older SB suits (especially three piece suits) do seem quite rare though compared to DB suits. Possibly because DB suits are as conservative as a three piece suit but use less material, making them a more affordable "best" suit for people who were on a lower income (this seems to be the case in old films).
 
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avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
What is your size - out of interest?

I've encountered quite a few decent SB 40s suits in larger sizes recently, although they certainly are scarcer.

I think Mario's problem is not so much the size as the length. Being a tall guy he has trouble finding suits which are long enough. I have that problem too but it's usually possible to get a 32" inside leg once the cuff is let down.
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
I think Mario's problem is not so much the size as the length. Being a tall guy he has trouble finding suits which are long enough. I have that problem too but it's usually possible to get a 32" inside leg once the cuff is let down.

Precisely. Only that I'd need at least a 33" inseam (better still is 34") with a 31" waist (which can of course be taken in if it's not too wide to start with). And I really hate to sacrifice the cuffs. Last resort, really.
 
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Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
Thrift Shop find. It fits really well, but it's much too warm today to get a shot of me in it. Very heavyweight material. The way the jacket is constructed and its cut makes me think early '30s or earlier, but without any tags, I really couldn't say.

With the silk covered buttons, I'm not sure what you'd really call this style.
No labels or union tags anywhere in it. I don't see any evidence that there ever were. Very nice workmanship.

Short jacket skirt. The sleeves are longer than the body of the jacket.
IMG_3180.jpg


Sharp peak lapels
IMG_3185-1.jpg


Slanted shoulder seams
IMG_3187.jpg


This double stripe is on the inside of both pockets. Is this to do with the material itself or is it a design feature?
IMG_3188.jpg


Prima buttons
IMG_3189.jpg


Hand-stitched collar
IMG_3191.jpg


The large buttons on the front match these sleeve buttons. All are silk.
IMG_3184-1.jpg
 
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Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
I agree with Dinerman, the construction and cut feels like early '30s. Considering the unusually short skirt, I wonder if this could be a kilt jacket, or a conventional jacket cut-down to serve as a kilt jacket. This kind of heavy, blue/grey flannel material (Lovat blue) is often used in kilt jackets. The silk brocade covered buttons are a curious feature though, more typical of formal evening attire.
 

Salieri

One of the Regulars
Messages
107
Location
UK
Very nice jacket. I would say it's a 20s-30s stresemann/stroller/black lounge/what-you-will coat. Granted it's very short in the torso, but I have one that's a similar length - also with fancy buttons (which were more or less a staple of morning dress at the time, and were occasionally carried over to black lounge jackets):

sdc15321.jpg


Here's another that I had recently with a skirt about the same length as the sleeve:

sdc13406.jpg


Kilt jackets usually have a much more cutaway skirt, what's more I've never seen anything at all like that worn with a kilt before.
 
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Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
I found these a couple of days ago at the same shop. No two are the same size, so I doubt a single original owner. But I know that three came in together, and I would assume this jacket came in at the same time as well. So probably 4 formal jackets from the '20s-'30s all coming into the thrift shop at the same time, but in different sizes, all in good shape. I wonder where they've been all these years?

IMG_3042.jpg

IMG_3044.jpg


IMG_3048.jpg

IMG_3049.jpg

IMG_3053.jpg


IMG_3061.jpg

IMG_3062.jpg

IMG_3068.jpg
 
Dinerman, your jacket is German, or made by tailor trained in the German tradition, and from the middle 1920s-middle 1930s. Those Prima silk-covered buttons are very common on germanic jackets of this era. It's a pity there're no trousers; they're generally quite stunning on these suits. Here's one I sold a wee while ago.

BlackGermanSB1.jpg
BlackGermanSB4.jpg


I'll bet the inside breast pocket(s) is(are) (they usually have 2) set right up close to the armhole (much higher than American, British, or other European tailors of the day would place it/them).

BlackGermanSB8.jpg


Thrift Shop find. It fits really well, but it's much too warm today to get a shot of me in it. Very heavyweight material. The way the jacket is constructed and its cut makes me think early '30s or earlier, but without any tags, I really couldn't say.

With the silk covered buttons, I'm not sure what you'd really call this style.
No labels or union tags anywhere in it. I don't see any evidence that there ever were. Very nice workmanship.

Short jacket skirt. The sleeves are longer than the body of the jacket.
IMG_3180.jpg


Sharp peak lapels
IMG_3185-1.jpg


Slanted shoulder seams
IMG_3187.jpg


This double stripe is on the inside of both pockets. Is this to do with the material itself or is it a design feature?
IMG_3188.jpg


Prima buttons
IMG_3189.jpg


Hand-stitched collar
IMG_3191.jpg


The large buttons on the front match these sleeve buttons. All are silk.
IMG_3184-1.jpg
 

Chrome

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Hyvinkää, Finland
Jacket is quite similar to Sproily's stroller:
lassi5.jpg

And indeed Finnish style is very germanic, especially in the early century. I like those "fancy" buttons, I find quite many black jackets here with those. I guess sunday best's survival rate is quite high

Could those stripes in the pocket be the edge marker in the fabric, and tailor is using it cleverly.
And for last, Saarimaki is finnish surname :)
 

Chrome

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Hyvinkää, Finland
I did notice that, but didn't mention it any further or do another post.

That Saarimaki jacket is first foreign jacket made by finn that I have seen. Finnish documentary was made in late forties to show finnish towns in usa. There is small clothier shop shown and name of the shop is direct translation from his finnish surname, quite common I think. Saw that clip in youtube :)
 

Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
Dinerman, your jacket is German, or made by tailor trained in the German tradition, and from the middle 1920s-middle 1930s. Those Prima silk-covered buttons are very common on germanic jackets of this era. It's a pity there're no trousers; they're generally quite stunning on these suits. Here's one I sold a wee while ago.

I'll bet the inside breast pocket(s) is(are) (they usually have 2) set right up close to the armhole (much higher than American, British, or other European tailors of the day would place it/them).
Absolutely correct about the breast pockets. Thanks for helping out on this one!

Apparently a wave of 100,000 Germans came to Canada between 1924 and 1930 once they were changed from a "non-preferred" to "preferred" immigration status. And if they were coming by ship, chances are they came through Pier 21, which is about a ten minute walk from my house.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
The double stripe on the pocket facings are probably the inner edge of the selvedge, the facings were most likely cut from scraps near the edge.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
Apparently a wave of 100,000 Germans came to Canada between 1924 and 1930 once they were changed from a "non-preferred" to "preferred" immigration status. And if they were coming by ship, chances are they came through Pier 21, which is about a ten minute walk from my house.

:eek:fftopic:
A lot of Germans came to America (both north and south) after WW1. The German side of my family moved to Argentina in 1923 because of the terrible inflation in Germany. I can't imagine German immigrants being too popular during WW2 though (my family nearly had all it's assets seized by the Argentinian government in 1945 and narrowly managed to avoid that fate by registering them under a Swiss relative).
 

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