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I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
That Fab Suit

Baron Kurtz said:
Here's one you chaps arven't seen yet. I've had it for a while, just got around to photos. A 1936 USA union tags, belted back with knife pleats. This is a great suit and fits well, though i need to get around to taking up the legs and arms. My new friend the mannequin is almost exactly the same size as me but his waist is a bit bigger . . . fat bugger.

A taupe colour with white and orange/red double-pinstripes. On the front are two flapped patch pockets at the hips, and an angled patch pocket at the left breast. Lovely caramel buttons

BeltBack1.jpg


Belted back and 5 knife pleats in triangular arrangement. One deep pleat in the centre and two shallower pleats to either side of the large one.

BeltBack2.jpg


And the waistcoat.

BeltBack3.jpg


bk

Mate the innocent bystander on the Clapham omnibus would swear you just had that sweet suit whipped up by your favourite bespoke Saville Row tailor!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :p :p

Could some resident expert turn that suit into a size 44 Short pattern at his/her earliest opportunity?;) ;)
 

Hal

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
UK
Baron Kurtz said:
Here's one you chaps arven't seen yet. I've had it for a while, just got around to photos. A 1936 USA union tags, belted back with knife pleats.

It may simply be my ignorance, but I'm utterly amazed to see a single-breasted suit jacket of that date with two-button fastening. Didn't all single-breasted jackets, from 1945 to 1970 at the latest, have three-button fastenings? Two-button fastening was hardly known before the hippie/studentradical/babyboomer era, surely?
 

retrofashion

One of the Regulars
Messages
193
Location
Nothingville
Very nice suit Baron Kurtz. Very stylish indeed.

On a side note, I'm finding incredibly hard to tell some 70's suits from 30's and 40's ones. When it's a double breasted it’s easier, but with a SB, specially a 3 piece one, I find them incredibly similar and hard to tell apart, at least in pictures. Ok, when the 70's suit has bell-bottoms trousers or the exaggerated wide lapels and of course, the leisure suit and western suit, suits I consider a style crime in my humble opinion, (I apologize to those who enjoy them) it's a dead given. But not all them do. If I see the back and it's a belted jacket I will also think 30's-40's. But in a picture like this:
BeltBack1.jpg


…it could as well be a 70's for me. I have seen so many 70's suits that looked like this (to my eyes). I’m sure you guys can judge it based on the look of the fabric and other details, but I'm not that well versed, so all I have to go at is style and style wise, they look remarkably similar.
Am I totally off here?
 

retrofashion

One of the Regulars
Messages
193
Location
Nothingville
Hal said:
It may simply be my ignorance, but I'm utterly amazed to see a single-breasted suit jacket of that date with two-button fastening. Didn't all single-breasted jackets, from 1945 to 1970 at the latest, have three-button fastenings? Two-button fastening was hardly known before the hippie/studentradical/babyboomer era, surely?

I’m no expert, but I have a 1937 and 1941 catalog (look around the lounge, they are floating around somewhere) and they are full of two-button SB suits.
 

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,392
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
In fact, the choices were greater then. Single breasted two or three button, double breasted in all its possible distillations, collar variations, lapel choices. But there were certainly plenty of two-button SB jackets for most of the century. You might have the notion that they are more modern because two button jobs were about all one saw from the mid-1960's to 1990's. JFK gets credit for that, but he is credited with lots of fashion trends in which he had no hand.
 

Shaul-Ike Cohen

One Too Many
Messages
1,176
Location
.
What I find interesting is the waistcoat gorge, especially in relation to the jacket's.

(I haven't commented yet, so: marvellous suit in a colour that's not mine.)
 

benstephens

Practically Family
Messages
689
Location
Aldershot, UK
Baron,

That is a very nice suit, so unusual to find in interesting lighter colours, I like it a lot. It is nice to see two button jackets, as they do not obscure the waistcoat. Nice interesting pocket detailing as well.

Paddy, that is a nice suit as well, it certainly has a very wide lapel which look good on you.

Kindest Regards

Ben
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
retrofashion said:
…it could as well be a 70's for me. I have seen so many 70's suits that looked like this (to my eyes). I’m sure you guys can judge it based on the look of the fabric and other details, but I'm not that well versed, so all I have to go at is style and style wise, they look remarkably similar.
Am I totally off here?

Retrofashion, one dead giveaway between '30s and '70s suits is the depth of the "v" in the waistcoat (where the shirt and tie show through). Another giveaway is the total length of the waistcoat's front.

In the '30s, waistcoats were available in both high and mid "v" versions. Most of the vintage '30s waistcoats I've run into have had mid "v"s. Also, these waistcoats are quite short and sit high on the torso.


That said, the waistcoats of 3-piece suits made in the '70s ALWAYS have low "v"s. In addition, the '70s waistcoats are relatively long and sit low on the torso.


Hope this helps!

.
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
Go Ray..!!

I love this image Ray, because it's a juxtaposition between the old, formal and classic versus the modern and rebellious of the graffitti vandalism.

Yet, ironically, in your dress, you are probably 'more of' the rebel in these modern times of ours and making more of a statement than the random hierglyphics sprayed onto a wall! ;)

As ever Ray, just so darn cool!!! Keep raising the benchmark for the rest of us to aspire to my friend ;)
 

Jerekson

One Too Many
Messages
1,620
Location
1935
Here's a far better pciture of my three-piece creme suit.

I really need to make a new thread about this suit; it's quite a fun story, actually.

Kev_suit_3.png


And I plan on getting the trousers cuffed shorter.
 

mike

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,000
Location
HOME - NYC
my magnoli chinatown suit in french blue..

Went back to NYC to visit the folks and all I got were these stinkin pictures... ;)
(sorry they aren't focused enough on the complete suit, it was family reunion time.)

garycarynmike07.jpg


kids07.jpg


pointoforder.jpg

the pants aren't anywhere near as high as I hoped, I had measured based off of a pair of wahmaker pants I have, and as you can see, they're quit low cut. Next time I will need to perfect my measuring I guess.
Again sorry for the focus not being on the clothes themselves, they're all I've got at the moment...
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
Messages
1,875
Location
The Center of the Universe
I just bought this suit (auction # 200158709457) on eBay after it was listed for about 4 hours...for $44.99.
532e_1.JPG

530b_1.JPG

5375_1.JPG

I'm not sure which is more accurate- with or without flash- so I imagine it's somewhere in between. Regardless, I needed a blue solid db suit in my closet.
The measurements make it seem like it will fit everywhere except the sleeves and possibly the inseam...22.5" shoulder to cuff- I may have to let it out up to an inch which may or may not be possible. If impossible, do I have any short-armed takers?
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Great suit as always, Mr. Rover! :eusa_clap


Below is one of my vintage favorites. It was handmade for a doctor by "Artona", a venerable Detroit tailor. The pattern is an unusual variation on the Prince of Wales check (glen plaid). A beautiful suit. I wore it to the Cicada Club event last Sunday night.


Proof positive that it is possible for a Caucasian male to wear a salmon red shirt with a suit and get away with it. ;)



IMG_3112-vi.jpg



Cclub.jpg



.
 

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,392
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
Great pattern, looks like a perfect fit, and you look as at home with that elegant and beautiful woman as it is possible to be, Marc.

The great eye opener of Apparel Arts (& Esquire) is the color combinations shown there. It wasn't all chalk stripes and white shirts. There were beautiful variations and often illustrations are very clear about "with this color suit, wear this color shirt, this type of tie, these socks..."


That suit would lose 80% of its charm paired with a plain old white shirt!
 

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