Show us your SHOES !!!

[flyfishark]

Crosby Square (I think) are regarded as the number one ahead of Edwin Clapps. Benny Holiday has a wonderful pair of spades by them I found for him and Binkie has also a nice pair of two tones from the 40s (similar provenance). Seven eyelets makes them 50s IMHO.

Are they NOS BTW?

Wish they were, Cookie. They've been worn a couple of times. Here's a photo of the two side by side. I'm awaiting another pair of Clapps today.

 

[Whitewall]

Chevrette is called "kid" in English. Those look very 1950s with that design. Very nice spectators. What do a pair of bespoke/handmade shoes cost in Argentina?

Hello COOKIE, thanks for the "kid" explanation. Here, in Argentina a pair of good hand-made shoes can go up to U$S 200 (or more if you want exotic materials to be used) but if you don't need anything too special you still can get very good shoes for U$S 130 see for example this link, it has prices in USD: http://www.victoriotangoshoes.com.ar/PAGINAS INGLES/MEN SHOES.htm

 

[Tomasso]

You've blown it again!

I know, I'm off my game......

 

[Isshinryu101]

Those are Clapps not Alden.

I know, friend. I was just trying to make a comparison with what is considered the "Premier" maker of US shoes now. Alden is beloved, especially on the internet forums, but they just don't compare quality-wise to the makers of old.

 

[Tomasso]

I don't believe Alden were ever in the upper echelon of US makers so to compare them to long gone elite makers doesn't make much sense. Rather than being ashamed, I think they should be applauded for making a high quality, affordable shoe. Before criticizing Alden quality one should take into consideration that they are one third the price of the top British and Italian makers.


Here's Alden and Edward Green, side by side. What exactly do they have to be ashamed of?

EG-Top
Alden-Bottom

 

[Orgetorix]

These should go in the spade sole thread BTW as well IMO.

Why does everyone here seem to think any shoe with a narrow waist is a spade sole? IMO those Clapps aren't spades at all. There's no extension of the welt and sole edge at the sides of the shoe, and there's no sharply defined point where the sole begins to curve in to the waist. It's just a normal sole that has been cut closely under the instep. Doesn't really qualify as a spade.

 

[Tomasso]

IMO those Clapps aren't spades at all.

I agree.

Why does everyone here seem to think any shoe with a narrow waist is a spade sole?

Not sure that this is accurate.....

 

[Isshinryu101]

I don't believe Alden were ever in the upper echelon of US makers

They are it now... unless one prefers AE

Rather than being ashamed, I think they should be applauded for making a high quality, affordable shoe.

The criticism is more in comparing the product they rolled out 50 years ago vs what they put out now. The construction has clearly dropped off. THEY DO have a wonderful line of shell cordovan shoes, but the construction in them is inferior to what they made a half century ago.

take into consideration that they are one third the price of the top British and Italian makers.
Here's Alden and Edward Green, side by side. What exactly do they have to be ashamed of?

EG-Top
Alden-Bottom

I'm not sure if this is attesting to the great quality of Alden, or the over-priced state of affairs at EG. I've heard of & seen pics of EG's where the leather has begun to crack at the 4 year-old mark. Shameful, I think... for $350 dollar shoes, it's shameful, but for $1200 shoes, it's a SIN!

I DO agree that the shoes look similar, but you can't compare shoes with an overhead view only. I had a pair of Cable & Company captoes in 1992 that looked very similar from the overhead view, and have recently seen a similar Cole Haan (made in India, i think) model as well. Heft, leather quality (thru creasing & aging), construction... none can be judged thru pictures alone.

 

[flyfishark]

Friend, you have great taste in vintage shoes. I'm still looking for my 1st pair of aristocrafts. thanks for posting.

Thanks so much. Tell me your size and what you like and I'll keep an eye out--I look constantly. Be happy to contact you if I find what you're looking for.

 

[LuckyKat]

Those are definately 30s or 40s at the latest...they're nice...you want to sell them!?!

This is a pair of Custom Florsheim White Buck Brogues. They were made for a "James C. Smoot," and it seems they were made in the 1960s

 

[flyfishark]

Those are definately 30s or 40s at the latest...they're nice...you want to sell them!?!

Thanks, but I already sold them. Had them on FL for awhile and didn't get any action so I sold them outright. Sold Brooks Brothers 40s English white bucks, and more modern BB Alden. Hey, I'm outta bucks...gotta remedy that. Thanks for asking, though.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Thanks so much. Tell me your size and what you like and I'll keep an eye out--I look constantly. Be happy to contact you if I find what you're looking for.

Glad you mentioned it, friend. I prefer more extreme spade soles and vintage exotics. Size 8 1/2D, or thereabouts.

 

[Tomasso]

The criticism is more in comparing the product they rolled out 50 years ago vs what they put out now. The construction has clearly dropped off.

Would you care to elaborate on the deficiencies in of their current shoes? How about some photos of these superior vintage Aldens?

 

[flyfishark]

Would you care to elaborate on the deficiencies in of their current shoes? How about some photos of these superior vintage Aldens?

I don't think anyone can seriously question the superiority of vintage classic shoes over modern Aldens. The sad fact is, Aldens today are held as the "gold standard," and well they should. What can compete in the American market today? AE is a good looking shoe, but it's not what it used to be. I've never been a fan of Alden--I've considered them over-priced, especially when compared to other vintage American shoes. My wife always asks me, "why buy new when you can find new old stock?" I agree with her.

 

[Tomasso]

I don't think anyone can seriously question the superiority of vintage classic shoes over modern Aldens.

You're not suggesting that back in the day the entire output of the US shoemaking industry was made to the same lofty standards; that there weren't makers producing shoes at different levels of quality, at various price-points. Isn't it possible that Alden were a middle market brand back in the day and that their quality has been maintained?

 

[flyfishark]

You're not suggesting that back in the day the entire output of the US shoemaking industry was made to the same lofty standards; that there weren't makers producing shoes at different levels of quality, at various price-points. Isn't it possible that Alden were a middle market brand back in the day and that their quality has been maintained?

A good point. I guess I was lumping vintage into the high-end category. Of all the makers, Alden does seem to continue to command respect (look at the used prices) and a loyal following. (I'd still rather have a great vintage shoe).

 

[Isshinryu101]

Isn't it possible that Alden were a middle market brand back in the day and that their quality has been maintained?

Quite possible that they were a "middle road" mfr. in the "old days". My main issue with the company is that they strive to be the "premier US maker today" and have positioned themselves quite well in that respect... from a marketing respect. Hell, they're the only true US made mens' maker at Barney's now. As I also said, their work with shell cordovan (and contract with Horween) also separates them from the crowd. I just want more in terms from them in materials quality & construction... considering how their marketing sets tyou up for very lofty expectations.

Of all the makers, Alden does seem to continue to command respect (look at the used prices) and a loyal following. (I'd still rather have a great vintage shoe).

Again, their marketing has been fabulous. Their INTERNET PRESENCE especially. The members of SF & AAAC (with their tens of thousands of daily visitors) have spent years pushing Alden & shouting its' praises. The result is that many of their used models command 80- 90% of current retail price. Not such a great "bang for your buck" for used shoes, I think.

In terms of Shell (and their array of colors), they are nearly the only game in town, though.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Apparently, "ALDENS" department store from the 1950's. Not the "Alden" shoe we all know. Decent enough solid gunboats, though.

 

[SteveAS]

In terms of Shell (and their array of colors), they are nearly the only game in town, though.

Allen Edmonds makes several styles in shell cordovan, but you're right that AE offers fewer color choices than does Alden.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Allen Edmonds makes several styles in shell cordovan, but you're right that AE offers fewer color choices than does Alden.

Don't get me started on AE. I bought a pair of burgundy shell MacNeil's a year ago. Brand new. They were lightweight, the stitches were roughly done, and had a couple of spots where they started to unravel. The welt looked "plasticky". Even the shell wasn't very good. I couldn't get them to gain any character thru wear, and the color of the burgundy was very drab. I sold them on SF for 40% of what I paid.

I hope I haven't offended any AE lovers out there.