Show us your British suits

[Chasseur]

I make such a point of the presence/absence because I know that most vintage folks I know consider this wide, flapped, "watch" pocket to be one of the hallmarks of a British vintage (pre- mid 1950s) suit. I realised when going through my trousers a few years ago that the opposite seemed to be true, and that certainly before WWII they are the exception, not the rule. Indeed in the Burton's catalogue hbk has a pic from, waistband pockets of any kind are only mentioned in the formal wear section. There is no mention of them anywhere else in any of the large number of catalogues I have looked through. That catalogue also includes a section on instructions to branch managers, which is quite fascinating.

Interesting, all my British suits are from the 1950s (or later). I have one suit (label's been cut away) with the large flapped pocket.

A couple have the non-flapped pocket. (also most of the British formal wear I have seem to have the unflapped pocket)
1954 Austin Reed:

However, some do not have a pocket:
1955 Anderson and Shepard with no pocket:

Late 1950s Burton I just sold:

Thank you gentlemen this has been a most enlightening conversation!

 

[Salieri]

While we may never be able to prove what its original purpose was i don't think that it is useful for coins

It's possible that, like apparently so many things, it's equestrian in origin. It's very difficult to get into a hip pocket on horseback, and jodhpurs seem to be just about the only modern trousers you still find them on.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'll try to get more and better pictures of this one. It's difficult to photograph as my mannequin is about 15 chest & waist sizes too small. Made for Edmund de Rothschild (yes, that one) in 1962, this 3 piece shooting suit is really of remarkable quality, as one would expect of a Row tailor.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

This is either raw silk or slubby linen (I'm pretty sure the latter; maybe MissSis would have an idea - she cleaned it for me). Very, Very nice, and fits great. No date; maybe 30s? Maybe 50s?

Enjoy!

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

love that linen one Baron. nice high gorge, wide lapels. and a brand i've never heard of before.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Someone was selling a very very lovely tweed jacket by them in Classifieds a while ago. Too big for me, or I'd have had it.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

No date; maybe 30s? Maybe 50s?

sometimes, it feels like the more British suits you see, the less you know about dating them accurately because you see more and more features that contradict what rules you thought you knew. earlier suits that look later. later suits that look earlier. for example, is there really anything to suggest that this chap's jacket is from 1925 (which it is) and not ten or twenty years later ?

all we can really say with certainty is that British tailoring hardly changed from 1925 (when the wider trouser came in) to 1955. sometimes the best you can do is say "well, it's somewhere between 1930 and 1950"

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Looks like they've been caught inflagrante. Her blush and his undone fly button give it all away!

But yes, you're right re: British tailoring. So few clues to ride with.

 

[MB15]

Hello
Are my eyes fooling me, or did the guy in the photo not even put his belt into the belt loops? Or maybe there aren't even belt loops?
Greetings
Marco

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

true. they look pretty amazing though when done in one piece like this:

I am quite late but since Mario just had some trousers with fishtail and beltloops made....from when and where are the trousers shown in the picture? British 1930s?

 

[herringbonekid]

British 1930s?

they're not mine and i don't know the exact date, but British early 30s would be the safe bet. they might not be British, though the buttons look it.

 

[Salieri]

Not a suit, but used to be one. I got this in quite a shoddy state for £3, but after a little bit of work - Resewing the buttonholes, resetting the buttons (they'd been moved to increase the waist and chest size) and giving it a damn good steaming and pressing and brushing - it's looking in wearable condition.

Selfridge's, probably 40s, interesting weave detail. Would have been a lovely suit once, but then, as with all my actual suits, I would probably never wear it for fear of wearing it out. At least I feel ok about wearing this:

EDIT: Forgot all about this, which has been posted elsewhere, but for people looking for features, this has got them all:

DB Waistcoat

1948

Internal button-down waistcoat pocket

Strange buttonhole in the welt of waistcoat breast pocket (?)

Mega Trousers

Two flapped fob pockets

 

[herringbonekid]

Selfridge's, probably 40s, interesting weave detail.

don't think i've seen a fabric exactly like that before; like a herringbone, but not the usual herringbone... the zig zag appears to be running diagonally rather than on the straight !

 

[Nick D]

Salieri, I've had a thought about the buttonhole on the waistcoat pocket. It may be for a pince-nez or monocle cord with a button on the end. Not everyone wore them looped around their necks, and a double-breasted waistcoat doesn't have a convenient button to attach it to. The chances of finding evidence to back this up are pretty slim, but it's just an idea.

 

[Salieri]

HBK: I did see a cloth similar to this once before. It was on an Anderson & Sheppard suit that was posted about on here, but the links were only for ebay and have since died. I believe AntonAAK bought it, though.

Nick: That possibility did cross my mind. I thought it must either be something like that or something specific to do with the owner's job that a buttonhole there would be useful for. Really wish the suit wasn't in such a large size as if it fit it would be pretty much my dream black lounge.

 

[AntonAAK]

HBK: I did see a cloth similar to this once before. It was on an Anderson & Sheppard suit that was posted about on here, but the links were only for ebay and have since died. I believe AntonAAK bought it, though.

You have a good memory, Salieri! I did indeed buy that suit and the fabric is quite similar to the one pictured here, although mine is slightly closer to a traditional herringbone.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here's one I sold a while ago to someone in New Zealand. This one was rather large and for a tall chap. Dated 1938 and West End tailored. This was/is a LOVELY suit. Different house/background suggesting these photos were taken over 3 years ago.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Amazing what you find when you go hunting through your hard drives. I posted the waistcoat of this one a while ago. Here's the full shebang. Another one that I sold …

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Old Dunn & Co Overcoat. I bought this in Oxfam way back in 2007. I was in the same branch yesterday and found a very old Dunn & Co. cap. Same owner??