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Show off the sports coats.

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
... and tuck your shirt in! Tucking the shirt in will give a better idea of how it fits your proportions. As would a full length view (your leg length will make a difference to the overall effect). Also, the rear view doesn't seem as bad as the front view.
 

Metatron

One Too Many
Messages
1,536
Location
United Kingdom
Firstly, thank you everyone for your time and feedback. Here are some full length photos to show my proportions, as suggested by TT. Tucked in shirt and wool trousers. Excuse the muddiness, I'm using my webcam at the moment.

Photoon2013-01-10at1545_zps128ce3f6.jpg


Photoon2013-01-10at15452_zps495e64e7.jpg


Photoon2013-01-10at15454_zpscac72a3c.jpg


Photoon2013-01-10at15455_zps1d50a606.jpg


Photoon2013-01-10at1546_zps09cc28d5.jpg


Let me know if these views change your views. If not, off to the classifieds it goes!
 
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Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Well, looks better now - but it is certainly short. If you want to wear it, I'd go with higher-waisted trousers to balance the look. The waistband should be at (or little below) the top button.

The sleeves would need about 1 inch to be let out, as HBK pointed out it might result in not so pretty lines that are hard to iron out.
But the pattern is rather busy so this might not be too visible.
On a different note: I don't know whether it is a factor to you to alter a tagged, deadstock item... [huh]
 
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Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Firstly, thank you everyone for your time and feedback. Here are some full length photos to show my proportions, as suggested by TT. Tucked in shirt and wool trousers. Excuse the muddiness, I'm using my webcam at the moment.

Photoon2013-01-10at1545_zps128ce3f6.jpg


Let me know if these views change your views. If not, off to the classifieds it goes!

I tend to agree with Fastuni: the jacket is short but high waisted trousers would help balance the look. For me the sleeves remain the central issue. How will they look?

(Note: I am probably in the minority with regard to shorter jackets, so its worth remembering that what I think you can get away with might look dreadful to others)
 
This is awesome, Gianfrancesco (i'm trying to get the thread opened again that you started!). I love the lapel shape, and the fabric is killer.:eusa_clap To put photos in your post, take the web address of the photo and put it between the image code


dsc00156.jpg


Yesterday we tried the second fitting (sleeves still not completed) of a light grey tweed sports jacket to our customer. Some few adjustments to do and it is ready!

some pics here (unfortunately I don't understand how to post them here!): http://muselladembech.wordpress.com/
 
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herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
it gets confusing because not all suits would have had narrow unpadded shoulders with high button stance (cult of youth style) in 1919-23. there were also 'conservative' suits available at the same time and these are harder to date.

i can't give an exact date for that jacket either but i think mid 20s is near enough.
 
Yes, I would say you're right about the conservative nature of the jack/suit it came from. A conservative suit with a tilt of the hat towards the cult of youth (have I made that the phrase now?) styles in the extreme length of the jacket. jacket is about a 36-37 chest and 34" long (iirc - might be a bit shorter). Whereas the other one (below) was a bit shorter but still quite conservative, though with the natural shoulder. This one is a size 35 (woo hoo!) and still has the labels under the collar. I should get a pic of the label, I suppose.

clothcraft20ssportscoat1.jpg
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
There is a limit to how narrow the shoulder can be if you want it to be "square", and the degree of squareness (makes a lot of sense, I know) is not a binary thing. The (long) 20s coat posted on the previous page has what I would call round shoulders, i.e. natural shoulders, even though it is padded. Feel free to disagree with me about that definition of the natural shoulder, but I think that as long as the padding, whether firm or light, is not used to build up the shoulders to look distinctly squarer than the proportionate figure, or to create a more square/angled shoulder end, it is a natural shoulder.

Notice that in some illustrations in the HSM style book, a shoulder pad of moderate (to modern standards) size is visible as a result of the arm being lifted sideways and upwards:

08-17-2010+06%3B36%3B27PM.JPG


08-17-2010+06%3B42%3B20PM.JPG


While in another picture, a rounded shoulder is shown. (Man in DB and bowler, to the left.)

08-17-2010+06%3B26%3B44PM.JPG
 
There is a limit to how narrow the shoulder can be if you want it to be "square", and the degree of squareness (makes a lot of sense, I know) is not a binary thing. The (long) 20s coat posted on the previous page has what I would call round shoulders, i.e. natural shoulders, even though it is padded. Feel free to disagree with me about that definition of the natural shoulder, but I think that as long as the padding, whether firm or light, is not used to build up the shoulders to look distinctly squarer than the proportionate figure, or to create a more square/angled shoulder end, it is a natural shoulder.

Notice that in some illustrations in the HSM style book, a shoulder pad of moderate (to modern standards) size is visible as a result of the arm being lifted sideways and upwards:

Point taken. I guess by natural, most of us are meaning not built up/absence of any padding.

The long jacket I posted previously has very thick shoulder pads. I'm sure if it was worn and the arm lifted as above, that is hoe it would look.
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Point taken. I guess by natural, most of us are meaning not built up/absence of any padding.

The long jacket I posted previously has very thick shoulder pads. I'm sure if it was worn and the arm lifted as above, that is hoe it would look.

It looks like it has a fair bit of padding extending past the shoulder seam and into the sleevehead, which makes it seem less square than if the shoulder padding stopped abruptly at the shoulder seam. Maybe you could try it on (if you still own it), and take a picture of it with the arm lifted?

And by the way, it is worth remembering that not all jackets have this firm padding in the sleevehead, which can be a bit misleading when comparing jackets on a mannequin. A jacket with a round shoulder end will often appear to have square shoulder ends when placed on a mannequin, since most mannequins don't have arms to fill out the sleevehead and prevent it from collapsing.
 

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