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Shinki info?

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
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8,427
Location
Glasgow
My hope was that we could start an interesting thread on the stuff, upkeep and distinctive characteristics, a sort of add-to as you go thing. [huh] Comparisons and contrast as fine - as with the steer/horse thing - but only in a constructive sense.
 

Ishmael

Practically Family
Messages
546
Location
Tokyo, Japan
DH has a brief write up on a visit to Shinki here:

http://www.himelbrothersleather.com/cordovan-horsehide-the-best-of-japan-and-himel-bros/

I swear there used to be a lot more photos there. Maybe on his FB site? Can't remember where I saw them......

My understanding is that a lot of the finishing of the shinki horsehide used in leather jackets is done elsewhere. For example, from what I've learned of Rainbow Country, their horsehide is finished in Tokyo (Shinki is in Himeji) and Rainbow Country collaborates closely with the Tokyo based finishing company. Makes me wonder whether companies procuring shinki from abroad are buying direct from Shinki or, like Rainbow Country, from further downstream.......

Also important to note that Shinki is, perhaps, primarily known for their cordovan, not FQHH, being one of only two cordovan manufacturers in the world (Alden of course being the other, although their respective cordovans are very differently finished).

Freewheelers use all Shinki, and they love to abuse their jackets. Shots of their jackets are a good resource for pics of well worn Shinki.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
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8,427
Location
Glasgow
Thanks, Ishmael, very handy, and nice pics. Just what I hoped I'd get as a starting point.
 
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SLAB

A-List Customer
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382
Location
BE
Also important to note that Shinki is, perhaps, primarily known for their cordovan, not FQHH, being one of only two cordovan manufacturers in the world (Alden of course being the other, although their respective cordovans are very differently finished).

I believe that to be incorrect. Tricker's gets their cordovan from another source; I believe Argentina or Italy?
 

Ishmael

Practically Family
Messages
546
Location
Tokyo, Japan
Trickers get their Cordovan from Comipel in Italy, but Comipel get their cordovan from Shinki and then only finish it, from what I understand.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
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USA
...and I believe Alden's comes from Horween
As does Allan Edmonds, Vass, Carmina, all the Northampton makers (Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett & Jones,Gaziano and Girling, Alfred Sargent, etc...).....actually, it would be easier to name the top makers who don't use Horween
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Yep.. persistently unchanging on several forums.
Yep. If I were BK, I'd focus less on hides/accuracy and get a better marketing department. As it is, the focus on such things doesn't appear to have worked on the accuracy fanatics and BK don't seem to know what it wants to do, make, or what clients to appease. Doesn't help that certain people offend 98% of potential buyers with stupid statements. Good jackets sell themselves - insults don't translate into orders from what I see.BTW, the OP asked for info on Shinki leather, not sales pitches for other hides.
 
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hpalapdog

One of the Regulars
Messages
295
Location
uk
Yep. If I were BK, I'd focus less on hides/accuracy and get a better marketing department. As it is, the focus on such things doesn't appear to have worked on the accuracy fanatics and BK don't seem to know what it wants to do, make, or what clients to appease. Doesn't help that certain people offend 98% of potential buyers with stupid statements. Good jackets sell themselves - insults don't translate into orders from what I see.BTW, the OP asked for info on Shinki leather, not sales pitches for other hides.

Yes, yes, but we know Kelso are without parallel because er..... they tell us so. Quote from the homepage:

"This tannery exclusively produces the Victory Horse(TM) leathers for Bill Kelso.
Development of the Victory Horsehides took a considerable length of time but waiting was well worth it as it was ensured that the specifications were followed exactly. In fact, the specifications were exceeded. Thanks to the vast experience, expertise and quality of this tannery Bill Kelso is now able to offer what is undoubtedly the best horsehide for A-2 jackets in the world ever made.

We call it "Victory" because it beats everything else. This horsehide is a full grain leather of the highest possible quality. It is vegetable tanned (i.e. processed with natural ingredients only) and dyed with pure aniline. These three features ensure that it maintains all its natural characteristics and that it will only become better over time. This horsehide displays very rich grain and will easily break in and develop creases and wrinkles. Its color will fade with wear and will allow the lighter color underneath to show through creating a wonderful patina.

Words and photos fail to describe it adequately. Only by seeing, touching, smelling and feeling it you will be able to understand and appreciate its value. Once you handle it you will know it's the best by far. Everything else we have seen in our 30 years in the leather business pales in comparison.

We have also improved the accuracy and details of our jackets and now with the introduction of the Victory horsehide can guarantee that you will not find better A-2 jackets anywhere else in the world."
 
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Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
I was "triple dog dared" on VLJ to accept some leather samples...I had to pass as I don't think I could handle it. I'd probably line a bird cage with my Ventura after. I'll hold out for Purple Heart hide. I think it will be even better...
 

DiamondDave

Vendor
Messages
97
Location
Diamond Cap Co.Tulsa, OK
HILARIOUS!!

What is funny... after about 1920... almost all hides were "Chrome Tanned", as proven by the new book that Gary Eastman has put out, where the US Army calls it out specifically in documented order forms. Another myth that JUST KEEPS GOING!

This is much like when JC first started, everyone said... cowhide was NEVER used in A-2 production....that guy is using inferior products... COWHIDE... ah, the nerve!! Who does he think he is.... blah blah blah!! And yet, it is now well documented that cowhide was acceptable to the Army during the A2 contracts.

My thought is this... Don't just TELL ME, or insist...SHOW ME... I am originally from Missouri after all!

DD
 

hpalapdog

One of the Regulars
Messages
295
Location
uk
HILARIOUS!!

What is funny... after about 1920... almost all hides were "Chrome Tanned", as proven by the new book that Gary Eastman has put out, where the US Army calls it out specifically in documented order forms. Another myth that JUST KEEPS GOING!


DD

Veg tanning has always been used for various leather types. Leather for shoe soles for example that require stiffness. All top grade saddles use veg tanning. There's a saddle maker near me who has his own tanning pits. Takes six months to tan.
Eastman jackets made from Italian hides are all veg tanned. The crisp handle when new and light tan through the leather comes from the bark tannins.
A chrome tanned hide comes out purple and soft. It needs a further dying process. Due to it's inorganic origins there's no doubt Chromium sulphate tanned leather lasts longer but that really nice strong leather smell comes from veg tanning.
 
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