SHAPING A PANAMA HAT CROWN

[Air Wing Marine]

Has anyone had any success reshaping a Panama hat crown? I have a PHD teardrop crown in good shaped. I also have a basic hand steamer. I'm trying to recreate that severe, angular creases found on older hats. I have attached a link to an eBay posting of what I'm looking for item number
number:
254974642447

 

[johnnycanuck]

I have never reshaped a proper Panama myself. I have a few that needs some work. I won’t work on them myself I will probably sent them to Mike at Northwest hats. I have seen his work online and here and I trust him not to mess it up.
My two cents worth.
Johnny

 

[daizawaguy]

Its a little trickier than felt, in that the fibers could be brittle and shellac may act strangely to steam. Play around a little, but when you feel the limit is reached, call a hatter promptly!

 

[belfastboy]

Its a little trickier than felt, in that the fibers could be brittle and shellac may act strangely to steam. Play around a little, but when you feel the limit is reached, call a hatter promptly!

I have sent a decent Panama hat into a hatter to reshape the crown from a telescope to a tear drop and while it worked out initially the tighter pinches weakened the straw and the fibres split/separated soon after . I glued in pieces of thin leather behind as a 'boot' to stop the spread. It fixed it but I will not attempt or even send in a Panama for reshaping again.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I think a lot has to do with the condition of the straw. I’ve steamed a Panama hat and shaped it alright, but the fibers seem to have been cooked in the process and it’s now crunchy rather than springy.

We’ve seen successful reshaping by Art at VS and Mike at NW, and no doubt others. I think that unless it’s a cheap hat you don’t mind messing up, I’d agree with @johnnycanuck and leave it to a professional. I don’t hesitate to tackle felt but straw is a different story.

 

[belfastboy]

I think a lot has to do with the condition of the straw. I’ve steamed a Panama hat and shaped it alright, but the fibers seem to have been cooked in the process and it’s now crunchy rather than springy.

We’ve seen successful reshaping by Art at VS and Mike at NW, and no doubt others. I think that unless it’s a cheap hat you don’t mind messing up, I’d agree with @johnnycanuck and leave it to a professional. I don’t hesitate to tackle felt but straw is a different story.

Yes, I sent mine out to a hatter and the straw is now crunchy/brittle and subject to splitting.

 

[johnnycanuck]

For those who sent them away and they it came back crunchy @belfastboy do you mind sharing who you sent it to? I don’t want to pop pop anybody’s work but I would hate for a nice hat to be ruined for silence.
Johnny

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I agree with the comments here that it depends on the condition of the straw. Additionally, I don't believe that anyone is trying to shape a Panama without the aid of a sculpted block like you can do with felt. Back in 2017 when I visited Art at his shop I brought with me a 30 year old Cuenca Panama straw hat and he taught me how to recondition it and allowed me to block it up on a sculpted block. Turned out fantastic. I do need to re-flange it now, maybe that is my weekend project.

To further the point about sculpted blocks, Mike at NW Hats told me a story that as Art was trying to sell Vintage Silhouettes that Brent Black bought all of Art's sculpted blocks.

 

[belfastboy]

For those who sent them away and they it came back crunchy @belfastboy do you mind sharing who you sent it to? I don’t want to pop pop anybody’s work but I would hate for a nice hat to be ruined for silence.
Johnny

No, I would not want to put this on the hatter. I think it is the nature of the beast....condition of the straw, quality of the straw. My point is really that in my experience the reblocking entails risk and one needs to aware of the potential harm.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I agree with the comments here that it depends on the condition of the straw. Additionally, I don't believe that anyone is trying to shape a Panama without the aid of a sculpted block like you can do with felt. Back in 2017 when I visited Art at his shop I brought with me a 30 year old Cuenca Panama straw hat and he taught me how to recondition it and allowed me to block it up on a sculpted block. Turned out fantastic. I do need to re-flange it now, maybe that is my weekend project.

To further the point about sculpted blocks, Mike at NW Hats told me a story that as Art was trying to sell Vintage Silhouettes that Brent Black bought all of Art's sculpted blocks.

Brent Black also beat me to a #52 block that Art sold. Lost by one day. Art said Brent bought most of of his long oval blocks.

 

[Air Wing Marine]

I was afraid it would be a futile pursuit . Does anybody know a htter with inexpensive straw bodies who will block and shape to order? I've bought one in the past from Mike at NW. He's the best, but out of my budget.