Shaping a fedora?

[Dick Ireland]

I reshape hats quite often. I use a spray bottle. Spray the hat until it darkens evenly, then stop. The hat will be wet enough to reshape but not too wet to cause any future funkiness. Don't be too gentle. Move the creases around until you get what you want. You may have to hold it in place a short while until the felt gives in. Set the hat on a surface where any part of the brim that swoops down won't touch anything. I use a large mixing bowl or motorcycle helmet.

If it's a particularly stubborn crease, you may have to repeat the process, but that hasn't happened to me often.

Last night I re-shaped two felt hats to Casablanca. I followed this method and it worked very well! Thanks for all the advice, guys.

 

[ninman]

Ok, so I put a bash in my new hat, and it looks great when I'm not wearing the hat. But here's the weird thing, if I put the pinch above my nose, where it's supposed to be, the hat looks like pointing at an angle, relative to my face, and if I turn the hat so that the pinch is slightly off from my nose, it looks like it's pointing straight on.

Is there a reason for that, or are my eyes just playing tricks on me? If it's not just in my head, is there a way to correct it?

 

[moontheloon]

you worry too much about way too many completely unimportant things

wear your hat and wear it with style not stale

 

[ninman]

you worry too much about way too many completely unimportant things

wear your hat and wear it with style not stale

Lol, I'm a bit OCD about stuff like that. I like everything to be in straight lines, and lined up properly etc.

 

[moontheloon]

Lol, I'm a bit OCD about stuff like that. I like everything to be in straight lines, and lined up properly etc.

do you bro ... just stating an opinion

you want it how you want it ... and I understand that

 

[Frunobulax]

I recently got a new BGGCD, and creased it as soon as I took it out of the box. After a couple of days, I noticed the front of the diamond is just a hair off center from the rear point. It kind of bothered me, but I decided it adds character and Ima gonna live with it.

I'm a little OCD, as well, but it's the imperfections that make things stand out.

Maybe your face is crooked!

 

[jlee562]

get a new face?

 

[alanfgag]

Life is not a frozen selfie. You are moving and the hat is moving on you. You'll both be fine.

 

[emigran]

Also make sure you line up the "bow" in back of the sweatband with the center of the front pinch...

 

[-30-]

There is also the option of No Pinch, it elevating the hat one notch up in formality.

Regards,
J T

 

[Bob Roberts]

If the hats pinches seem a little bit more left leaning I just square the hat off (on my head) a little to the right and vice versa.

 

[Michael R.]

I know OCD , but a little uniqueness (no one notices , trust me) makes it more "Real" , as I've heard the moon say , "Organic ." I'd go with it , then after time , you may find its perfect as is , or you can tweak it (maybe after a good rain) . Imperfections give it interest , and make it look natural . A house is full of flaws , but only the builder (usually) knows and sees them . Same with an artist , people see the overall view , but the one creating it sees the little tiny details . Rock it , and see how it goes . You'll find the way you like it , and what you can live with , and what you can't (just adjust that if it bugs you later) . Give it more time . But everyones advice is relevant , overall .

 

[lhaymond]

Hello All, I thought I might try starting a thread, in case any of you might have experiences to share.

I have owned a custom made hat for more than 10 years that I have never worn. It was a failed attempt to recreate a hat I admired - spotted in a film. Somehow, my vision and the hat maker's execution never lined up, and the hat has been sitting in my closet in a box for more than a decade.

Well, I'm a project guy. And, somehow I got the idea that I wanted to work with the hat to see if I could make something I could get some wear out of. I've watched a bunch of videos, read a bunch of blogs and forums and I am about to embark on the "re-making" of my hat. While it was reasonably expensive - I'm not concerned if I blow the whole thing - cause currently it's of no use anyway. I'll take some photos and post them later today. Here are a couple of questions:

1) Is there a difference in the shape of hat crowns - in "open" form. I will be attempting to take a hat that was modeled after a cavalry campaign hat and convert it to a fedora (haven't decided on the crease yet).
2) Can the crease, where the crown meets the brim be changed? I believe the crown is a good bit taller than I need/like. The plan would be to re-press the crease to lower the crown and then re-cut the brim. (Otherwise I may use a crease the requires more material and, in effect, lower the profile.

I'm not attempting to compete with top of the line fedoras - just have some fun - while learning something along the way.

 

[jlee562]

Not a hatter or refurber myself but I can answer the first part. Yes, open crown blocks are different depending on the style of hat you are seeking. Some are taller, some are shorter. Some have lots of taper built into the sides or front/back profiles, some have less. A popular choice for a fedora style is the #52 block which has relatively straight sides.

2) I can't answer definitively, but the area you're speaking of is called the brim break. I suspect it would be difficult to change.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

If you’re not talking about extreme changes to the crown height, it’s often easiest to just change the crease. There are lots of tricks you can do when creasing it to use up the crown height that you don’t want without making permanent alterations to the hat. As an added bonus you don’t have to replace the sweatband.

It’s more common for us to size up hats or add crown height where we move part of the brim into the crown. This allows us to cover the old break with a new ribbon. If you’re going the other way, you’ll probably end up with a crease/line in the brim from where the old break was.

You’ll need a foot tolliker or something similar to change the break line, and even then it can be difficult to get a sharp break. A hatter can plate it and get the break perfect. If you have a nice piece of felt, it might be worth considering having a hatter remake the hat to your new specifications (unless you just enjoy doing the work yourself).


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[Hat and Rehat]

Brent hates to see a crown shortened. I'm not saying that would in any way color the suggestions .he gives you.
I like a tall crown as well, high in front with a pronounced rake.
Depending on how rounded and tapered the original blocking is, you also might be able to leave the break alone, but still lose height by going with a very straight block with more square corners. You shift the felt out instead of up.
If the hat is unworn you can probably move crown into the brim without much in the way of ribbon issues, unless the hatter sewed the sweat in with a large needle and heavy thread, which could leave a ring of visible holes around your new break. A hat with much time in the sun is bound to have fading except were the ribbon is, making for a dark shadow of unfaded felt.
I'm presently moving a break into the brim on a beater stingy I'm remaking for my grandson. I blocked it down about 3 sizes, using a straight but very rounded block. I wanted height for the crown, but also wanted a respectable brim. I got 4 1/2" open on the crown, and am hoping for 2 3/8" on the brim. On his 5 year old head anything more might look like he's playing dress up.
But I'm not there yet.
That 1/2" I pulled out of the crown is in some intermediate limbo at the moment, 45 degrees from crown and brim both. I still have to make room in the brim for that felt. Because the radius of the brim is growing, the circumference has to grow too, so I've been stretching the outside of the brim around the perimeter as I stretch it out from the crown.
I'm almost finished fabricating a band block and flange for it, when I hope a steam iron will accomplish a lot of the brim expansion. I may end up buying a bag of sand, tossing it in the oven, and going that route. I have a mother in law apartment (unoccupied) in the basement, so can bake sand without too much flack.
You should get Henry Ermatinger's book and read up before tackling that hat, unless you really don't care if you ruin it.
I messed up a couple in various ways before reading it, when the problem was that I knew a little, but didn't know how much I didn't know. Even after reading it more than once I've managed to mess up a couple more, mainly through failed improvising.
It's fun though, even when you blow it. And I keep going to complete the damaged hat. It isnt for a customer. It is good practice. And it's liberating knowing you won't shed any tears if you botch another part up.
Looking forward to the pictures of your lab rat.

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[Willybob]

If I read you right, you say the crown is a campaign style. My experience with hat conversions is that campaign crowns tend to be rounder in profile than fedoras so you will lose crown height. I use a plastic straight wall dome block made by Hatshapers for these conversions.

 

[BIGG SHOW]

Hello all,
I’ve been a hat enthusiast for years. Just last week I bought a Stetson Chatham. My first “real hat” purchase.

I plan to have it re blocked with a cattleman’s crease. I also plan to have a self buckle leather band added as well. I tried to reblock it myself with a steamer the Wife has, I was able to bash it out so to speak but it kept returning to it's original shape. Too much stiffener I guess? Anyone have any thoughts on that? I’d appreciate any and all info, thoughts and comments.
Thank you kindly,
Cheers!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hello all,
I’ve been a hat enthusiast for years. Just last week I bought a Stetson Chatham. My first “real hat” purchase.

I plan to have it re blocked with a cattleman’s crease. I also plan to have a self buckle leather band added as well. I tried to reblock it myself with a steamer the Wife has, I was able to bash it out so to speak but it kept returning to it's original shape. Too much stiffener I guess? Anyone have any thoughts on that? I’d appreciate any and all info, thoughts and comments.
Thank you kindly,
Cheers!

The Chatham is lower crowned than most hats that, in my opinion, look good with a cattleman’s crease. It also has a modest 3 3/8 brim that to my eye doesn’t look best with a cattleman’s.

As for removing your old crease, I find that having an “anvil” inside the crown to “iron” against really helps. I also apply a generous misting of distilled water along with lots of steam. I’ll let the hat dry as an open crown (usually two days to ensure it’s completely dry) before I give it the new crease. This way the felt doesn’t hold much memory of the old crease.

I’m looking forward to seeing how your hat turns out.

 

[BIGG SHOW]

Thank you for the response kind Sir.
I’m a fan of a “smaller” hat if you will. I’m not a stingy brim fella but I’m comfortable with a more modest crown height and a brim under 3 inches. I looked around for a hat for some time. I couldn’t find any that suited my desired specific look. I tried on an Open Road and immediately knew I couldn’t wear it. It just wasn’t me. So, I went with the Chatham with plans to make it what you might call a “mini” Open Road. Today I stumbled upon the Stetson Roadster online and it’s calling my name. Loudly. I like the western nod it offers. I’m a bit of a hillbilly/country boy but definitely not a cowboy.