Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Tourbillion]

^It depends on the pattern Audrey. I buy pants/skirts to fit hips usually, but I generally prefer to buy tops/dresses to fit my shoulders then alter to fit my large bust. If I don't do this the shoulders come out enormous.

I find it easier to make patterns larger than smaller. In your case I would probably buy the size 16 pattern and take the waist in a little and then add a bit to the hips.

 

[Miss 1929]

But there are so many more things to fit in the top half (darts, shoulder darts, necklines, shoulder to sleeve seams) that it is recommended you buy to fit the bust, and adjust the bottom half which is always less complicated.

 

[Lauren]

I always heard the rule "It's easier to take in than let out", so if the cut of the skirt is complicated in any way I think I'd go with the size 18 and make up a muslin, then fit it to yourself and use the muslin as a pattern. It's a pain, but at least for your first pattern it will help you see vintage sizing. But if the cut of the skirt is simple, you might want to use a 16 since it's more difficult to take in the sleeve and bodice than add to the skirt. Luckily your size isn't that far off between bust and waist, so after you get the hang of it should be pretty easy. Luckily the fit was pretty consistent between companies in vintage patterns, so once you know what to alter when you cut they pretty much follow in tune with each other. For example, I know I need to nip in the waist, shorten the bodice length, and a lot of time add to the sleeve length, so I just do that right off the bat instead of making up muslins anymore.

 

[Audrey Horne]

Thanks so much for the advice ladies! I'll keep you posted

 

[Lauren]

I'm looking for a fabric, but I'm not sure what it's called...
I need two colors in solid of brown and tan in a wool- something preferably with a flat weave that I can use for a dress that will keep warm but still have a decent drape (not too stiff). Any ideas? I don't want gaberdine or tropical... something a bit heavier... in between a light and medium weight. Any help is appreciated!

 

[JupitersDarling]

Can anyone give a good explanation of what Osnaburg is like? I've tried looking it up but am confused whether it's actually thick and coarse, or fine and coarse.

A friend of mine wants me to sew up a monk habit, and while I'd like to do it in linen (wool being far too hot for the South!), cost is a factor. I thought a coarse mid-weight cotton with some drape could work. Found some black 'Osnaburg' on eBay- looks like linen, price works, but I just can't tell if it will work as a nice weight for a monk habit... it's described as 'good for suits and draperies' by the seller, but I've also seen conflicting descriptions like "reenactors use it to line their jackets" which speaks to it being lighter than I may be looking for...

 

[Lady Day]

There are some real good links here. You might want to ask the fellas (that thread is in the general attire thread). They may know.

LD

 

[JupitersDarling]

There are some real good links here. You might want to ask the fellas (that thread is in the general attire thread). They may know.

LD

Thanks LD. The only one of those links with info on osnaburg is one I've already seen, so I'll go ahead and post my question over there!

 

[Tourbillion]

Can you ask the seller about the "hand" of the fabric?

You should be able to find Osnaburg at any Joann's in their home dec/utility section if you want to see some in person. It is heavier than muslin, but there may be different grades available out there. I've never seen any in black, but it probably exists. It seems a little heavy for garment lining to me, I think people usually use it for drapes and slipcovers.

It might be okay for your monk robe, but I am not sure if it might be a little stiff. It might have sizing in it that you can wash out, but I am not sure. It should be softer than duck and stiffer than monkscloth. You can see photos of these fabrics at Joann's website.

 

[December]

I'm planning to make these trousers fairly soon but probably in a capri length:

It will be the first pair of trousers I've made so I don't know what fabric I should be looking out for. I know the sort of fabric I want- a medium weight one that will fit well but still be quite sturdy- but I have no idea what it's called!

Can anyone recommend some fabrics?

 

[kamikat]

This is the only drawback of buying fabric online. The print looked much smaller online. Do you think this print is too big for a dress?

 

[Inky]

i'm not a big print person but i love the colors - for me i'd be more inclined to wear a print that large as a skirt, for whatever that's worth

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

I feel funny even offering an opinion since I'm a complete newbie...

I could see it as a full skirt with a cute sweater set on top.

 

[SayCici]

I'm the opposite! I could see it as a nice blouse, with a solid-colored skirt on the bottom. Or still a dress, with the print on top or bottom as you like and then a solid color, with pockets of that fabric or covered buttons or something on the solid fabric to bring in the print!

 

[jetgirl]

Has anyone ever used a felling foot for their machine to make flat felled seams? I just got one and would love any tips. I know Laren has made jeans, I'm wondering if you used flat fell seams on it?

 

[Lauren]

I totally cheated on mine and just serged the seam allowance together and then topstitched them I'm not a good flat feller... even with the special little foot I always screw it up. I also would love to hear any tips anyone has!

 

[cailinbeag]

Kamikat - I think the fabric's fantastic and could be used as a dress or anything, really. The only thing I would do is add a solid color to break it up a bit, whether it be in the waist, collar, wherever. That way it creates sections for the eye to focus on without feeling overwhelmed.

I just finished my first flat felled project - it was a camp shirt for my husband. I would have no idea how to use a foot for it. I did it the old fashioned way...sewed the seam, trimmed back the one side of the seam allowance and folded, pressed and top stitched the other seam allowance in place. Time consuming, but the end result was quite polished looking, as it was done on a linen/rayon blend.

 

[Jenniferose7]

I love the 50s era Shaheen dresses but haven't been lucky enough to find any in my size. Does anyone know if he sold patterns for this era? Ive seen 1960s/70s patterns but I don't know if any others exist. I'm not sure if I should give up the search due to the fact it doesn't exist or if I should carry on hopefully.

Cindy,

I've been having the same problem. The vintage patterns go for a lot of money on ebay so I've been searching for other options.

Eva Dress just added one though haven't heard any reviews yet: http://www.evadress.com/108.html

And I just recently I found this one on Scissor Happy:
http://www.scissorhappy.com/catalog/item/1744458/1174446.htm

I hope that helps!

 

[jetgirl]

That's a good cheat though!

I totally cheated on mine and just serged the seam allowance together and then topstitched them I'm not a good flat feller... even with the special little foot I always screw it up. I also would love to hear any tips anyone has!

 

[jetgirl]

Kamikat - I think the fabric's fantastic and could be used as a dress or anything, really. The only thing I would do is add a solid color to break it up a bit, whether it be in the waist, collar, wherever. That way it creates sections for the eye to focus on without feeling overwhelmed.

I just finished my first flat felled project - it was a camp shirt for my husband. I would have no idea how to use a foot for it. I did it the old fashioned way...sewed the seam, trimmed back the one side of the seam allowance and folded, pressed and top stitched the other seam allowance in place. Time consuming, but the end result was quite polished looking, as it was done on a linen/rayon blend.

Yes, I wanted to do a shirt. The foot really only helps with the turning and topstitching part of the process, so might still be time consuming. I love the look of the flat felled seams!

Kamicat, I think it would be fun to do the skirt in that fabric and the top in a solid with pockets and armbands and collar in the print (uhhh, what Cici said).