Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[CherryRed]

No, I didn't get any...I have my eye on some cherry print fabric.

 

[Inky]

I'm on a search for a clothing quality (not crafting) wool felt available in a multitude of colors - does anyone have a good company/website they can recommend?

thanks bunches!

 

[kamikat]

How do you ladies feel about copying garments? There is a seller on etsy who is making custom garments from vintage patterns. I think she's charging a fair price but even thought it's fair, $150 is out of my price range for a single blouse. Someone suggested buying one and taking it apart to make a pattern from it. Is this something that you have done or would do?

 

[Amy Jeanne]

Check out this fabric I came across while browsing online today! lol

I have this fabric!! I don't plan to make anything out of it, though. It's too awesome. It will be hoarded.

 

[Amy Jeanne]

How do you ladies feel about copying garments? There is a seller on etsy who is making custom garments from vintage patterns. I think she's charging a fair price but even thought it's fair, $150 is out of my price range for a single blouse. Someone suggested buying one and taking it apart to make a pattern from it. Is this something that you have done or would do?

I wouldn't spend $150 on something I'm going to tear apart. As for copying a gamrnet -- why not? If it's for your own personal use I don't see what the problem is. If you like the shape, hate the colour/design/fabric, and it's in your price range I would do it. Not sure I'd re-sell, though, even if it is from a vintage pattern and there ARE more than one copies of patterns out there.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

How do you ladies feel about copying garments? There is a seller on etsy who is making custom garments from vintage patterns. I think she's charging a fair price but even thought it's fair, $150 is out of my price range for a single blouse. Someone suggested buying one and taking it apart to make a pattern from it. Is this something that you have done or would do?

Depending on how detailed it is, you may not have to take it apart. I've made a halter top from a RTW top and it came out fine. I have a couple books on copying an existing garment. Unfortunately i'm at work and can't access them right now.

 

[Gracie Lee]

Hi Cindy, I'd be interested to know which books you recommend for making patterns from extant garments, when you get a chance. I have several antique and vintage pieces that I'd like to make copies of for myself, and I'm not comfortable going at it without a little guidance. Thanks!

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I've got a question. What would skirts like this be made out of typically:

I have a pattern for a similar skirt from 1933 and I'd like to make it so it's rather "stiff" looking -- kinda like these gals have theirs (as in, no flowing bias drape.) Thanks.

 

[Gracie Lee]

My gut reaction is a light to mid-weight wool, but I will admit that as of yet this era is not my strong point. Please correct me if I'm mistaken!

 

[SugarKitten]

Amy Jeanne, I am no sort of expert, but I do own a vintage skirt that hangs *very* similarly to those in the pictures. It is wool, and it is also fully lined. I guess the ones in the photo would depend a lot on time of year and all those sorts of things, but mine has no drape/bias in it, and it hangs with a lot of weight.

My skirt is probably late 40s, a handmedown, and very serviceable - though I'm nearly a foot taller than the previous wearer, so the length is a bit funny on me, so all I am comparing is looks, for what it's worth!


ETA - I want the shirt and the hair on the girl in the front left of the upper pic!

 

[Lady Day]

Cant go wrong with a wool tweed, or even a wool gaberdine.
Mmmmm, gaberdine.....

LD

 

[Tourbillion]

Most of those skirts were mid weight wools. One of them (center top) looks heavier, like a tweed. The black one could be something lighter like canton crepe, probably rayon.

I made a 30's style bias skirt in wool gabardine, and it still looks pretty stiff. Other fabrics that might work are linen, cotton sheeting, a heavy crepe, rayon suiting. You can use wool crepe too, but that doesn't wear very well (snags!), and probably wouldn't have been popular for school skirts.

Add: the top left skirt is bias cut, if you look the hem in uneven.

 

[Smuterella]

***warning - stupid sewing question ahead***

OK, so, I can find dress patterns to fit me at the waist and hip (28 - 38) but the tops on these are usually a 34. I'm a 38 bust.

do I buy to the bust size and decrease at the waist and hip...?

 

[Inky]

***warning - stupid sewing question ahead***

OK, so, I can find dress patterns to fit me at the waist and hip (28 - 38) but the tops on these are usually a 34. I'm a 38 bust.

do I buy to the bust size and decrease at the waist and hip...?

yes, ma'am, buy for the bust - decreases at hips and waists are easier (unless of course there is some complicated fiddly bit at the waist or hip that you don't want to have to alter).

 

[Smuterella]

Thank you kindly.

Isn't going down that much quite tough? I've done 2 inches down on a recent skirt but 4 inches seems drastic.

What would be a good dress pattern for me to try this on, something uncomplicated but vintagely wearable so its not a waste of my time and effort?

I get slapdash on items I'm never going to wear. lol

 

[Inky]

Thank you kindly.

Isn't going down that much quite tough? I've done 2 inches down on a recent skirt but 4 inches seems drastic.

What would be a good dress pattern for me to try this on, something uncomplicated but vintagely wearable so its not a waste of my time and effort?

I get slapdash on items I'm never going to wear. lol

well, yes, but it's not that difficult - have you seen this article:

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading

I can't think of anything that comes to mind but hopefully someone with a broader collection of vintage patterns will speak up. I just know that for me sizing the bust is a HASSLE and taking things in at the waist or hips (or letting it out there) is way easier, but I too am a quick and dirty sewer.

 

[Smuterella]

Ooh, thanks!

You are wonderful x

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Making patterns from finished clothes

Hi Cindy, I'd be interested to know which books you recommend for making patterns from extant garments, when you get a chance. I have several antique and vintage pieces that I'd like to make copies of for myself, and I'm not comfortable going at it without a little guidance. Thanks!

Hi Gracie Lee,

Sorry it took a few days. These are the two books I have:

Patterns from Finished Clothes: Recreating the clothes you love by Tracy Doyle

Making Patterns from Finished Clothes by Rusty Bensussen

Full disclosure, I haven't actually used these books. The one time I copied a rtw halter top, I really just winged (?) it as it was only 3 pieces. Personally I like the look of the Tracy Doyle book better as it has good photos whereas Rusty Bensussen has drawings. The drawback for you (I think) is that it has you use a pointed tracing wheel to trace the seams. I'm not sure you would want to do that on an antique or vintage item.

Kenneth King just recently had an online class for this very thing. Perhaps he'll repeat it. Actually I just noticed that he has a book on cd which covers this topic. I've never seen it but I have used his information on resizing patterns to great success. http://sewing.patternreview.com/shop/Kenneth King
Hope that helps!

 

[Gracie Lee]

Thanks Cindy! I've requested those books from my local library, along with a few others by the same authors. I'm looking forward to seeing what they can offer! Who knows? If I'm successful, I might offer the patterns I come up with for others to use, too!

 

[SugarKitten]

Inky I love the grading article! I've got to scale up my first ever vintage pattern, and I've scared myself silly of it! I cannot even begin to think of what a 30" bust in like....

On that subject, will I hate my life if I try and sub in a cotton jersey with little stretch for a pattern that says I can use a cotton linen-blend? I know the weights are different, but I'll probably be losing some length as well (the pattern is mid-calf supposedly, but I don't know what height it was set for). I want to try a less scary vintage pattern of the three I bought, but I want it to be a casual sundress or I'll never wear it.