Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[ShoreRoadLady]

How can you sew something big and heavy and complicated, without beating it up? Are there any tricks? I've been fighting with this enourmous pouffy silk dress and it's getting snags and oil from my sewing machine. The oil isn't coming down the needle or onto the presser foot it's just the dress rubbing up on the under belly of the arm where there is a little hole that is a bit oily.

I try to remember to wipe off the underside of the free-arm before I sew, because I over-oiled the machine once, and some oil always seems to escape. Maybe use a rag with a little cleaner or rubbing alcohol, to make sure there's no oil slick before you start sewing? And definitely keep a rag or tissues handy to wipe extra oil off as you sew.

 

[Miss Sis]

I'm busty like you and 30s are hard! I'd try to let the bust out a bit. Ya'll know that red dress I got? It fits but that keyhole part is right on the cleavage. I don't know how I'm going to wear it. Hubby likes it [huh] I need to take a picture and see what ya'll think.

TexasGirl, I have a 30s dress with a little keyhole front and it has a small sheer lace piece behind sewn in one side that you snap into place once you've got it on. You could easily do that to solve your modesty problem with the red dress.

I can post a pic if you need to see it?

 

[Smuterella]

A quick request...

does anyone know of any fairly simple 40's or 40's style blouse patterns (not the Simplicity retro one...)

I desperately need some basic blouses and have found some fabulous buttons and fabric but can't find any blouse patterns in a 38" bust that don't have a million and one ruffles and tucks, which are lovely but not what i'm looking for.

Ideally I'd like just a round necked or collared blouse pattern. Perhaps I could look at 70's and 80's patterns for such a simple design...?

Any ideas?

 

[LizzieMaine]

A quick request...

does anyone know of any fairly simple 40's or 40's style blouse patterns (not the Simplicity retro one...)

I desperately need some basic blouses and have found some fabulous buttons and fabric but can't find any blouse patterns in a 38" bust that don't have a million and one ruffles and tucks, which are lovely but not what i'm looking for.

Ideally I'd like just a round necked or collared blouse pattern. Perhaps I could look at 70's and 80's patterns for such a simple design...?

Any ideas?

Look for Simplicity 3638, which came out about 1940 -- a very simple design which can be made up in a spread-collar or Peter-Pan collar version, in either long or short sleeves. There are modest gathers at the shoulders -- but no foofy flaffy frills -- and a patch pocket.

This pattern also comes with a matching jerkin, something very popular at the time, but the blouse stands alone just fine. Mine's size 18 (36 bust) but it was made in size 20 as well, with a 38.

 

[cailinbeag]

Smuterella - I have McCall 7592 from 1949. It's a very simple blouse, as you can see. Though it's a 32" bust, I'd be happy to send it to you, if you'd like (for free). I can even grade it if you need me to. It's been sitting in my pattern drawer for quite some time and I'd like to see it go to someone who will use it. It's not factory folded, but it is complete. Feel free to email me if you're interested.

 

[Smuterella]

Both wonderful suggestions, I'll set up an eBay filter now.

Thank you!

 

[Voodoo Kitten]

Hello ladies , often lurker, seldom poster, (I'm shy).

I want to pick up sewing again, (from my previous start of making curtains.... and that's about it), I really like the infamous Butterick 4790 and plan on trying my hand at that. Are there any other currently produced "vintage" or vintage looking/style patterns that would be good for a beginner like me? Maybe a simple pencil or circle skirt perhaps?

Thanks so much!

 

[Miss 1929]

I try to remember to wipe off the underside of the free-arm before I sew, because I over-oiled the machine once, and some oil always seems to escape. Maybe use a rag with a little cleaner or rubbing alcohol, to make sure there's no oil slick before you start sewing? And definitely keep a rag or tissues handy to wipe extra oil off as you sew.

And if you do get oil on it, here's a tip - cornstarch! You rub dry cornstarch into it gently, then brush it off, repeat until oil is gone. I have seen this done on the piping on a white satin bridal gown, and you would never know it was there.

And best of all, I read this in a Delineator magazine murder mystery story from 1935 - and it works great!

 

[SugarKitten]

Hello ladies , often lurker, seldom poster, (I'm shy).

I want to pick up sewing again, (from my previous start of making curtains.... and that's about it), I really like the infamous Butterick 4790 and plan on trying my hand at that. Are there any other currently produced "vintage" or vintage looking/style patterns that would be good for a beginner like me? Maybe a simple pencil or circle skirt perhaps?

I know Vogue reprints as vintage vogue, and they grade the difficulty of the patterns like they do the regular non-vintage ones, and some of them are graded easy. I do tend to find a lot more true vintage pattern have very few pattern pieces. They might be hard to make perfectly, but not too bad to simply complete. I don't find many separates though, most often dresses.

 

[bunnyb.gal]

I'm about to embark upon a jumper dress from a '40's pattern, and I was wondering if anyone can help me out with this one..."Underface upper edges and front strap with a bias facing of material 1 1/2 inches wide or use ribbon seam binding." What the heck is an underface?
Needless to say, being a vintage pattern, the instructions tend to be a little short on, uh, instruction!

 

[Gracie Lee]

Check out the Butterick 5250! I'm dying to go pick this one up and give it a shot. What do you ladies think?

 

[kamikat]

Check out the Butterick 5250! I'm dying to go pick this one up and give it a shot. What do you ladies think?

Those are some fantastic trousers!

 

[Marla]

I'm wondering if it is possible to buy a kit for making a fabric-covered belt to match a dress? I've heard of these existing, and vintage pattern instructions are always telling you to make one or "have one made", but I've never seen such a kit in a fabric store!

I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere in the depth of this thread, but I couldn't find anything. A google search didn't yield any kits either.

 

[SayCici]

I'm not aware of any companies still making them, but vintage ones pop up on Etsy and eBay.

 

[Marla]

Cici, that's what I was afraid of! I'm hoping to find some modern ones so that I can stock up, but I'd gladly use vintage ones. Is there a way to make a fabric-covered belt and buckle without a kit?

 

[bunnyb.gal]

vintage rayon

Is there anything manufactured today that is in any way comparable to vintage rayon? Not the crepe kind, but the washable kind?

 

[kamikat]

I use lots of rayon challis in my sewing. It can be machine washed, but it's best to line dry it. The fibers are delicate when wet and wear out faster if you machine dry it. To get the most out of rayon challis, it's best to hand wash it.

 

[JupitersDarling]

Can anyone else wrap their head around how the bust in this pattern is drafted??? (or heck, point me to a copy of this). I am stumped! Best as I can tell, the top bit is cut on the fold, and a section cut out of the bottom center fold, which the top is then pleated down to. I am also not sure how it can fit so well in the middy without waist darts!

 

[Lady Day]

I think it might look something like this...

Not to scale of course

*edit*
Actually I think the top of the part on the fold would be angled to the left slightly to cup the bust more.


LD

 

[bunnyb.gal]

I use lots of rayon challis in my sewing. It can be machine washed, but it's best to line dry it. The fibers are delicate when wet and wear out faster if you machine dry it. To get the most out of rayon challis, it's best to hand wash it.

I've done a few Google searches and it doesn't seem all that common a fabric over here. I wouldn't exclude getting some shipped over, however, and I hand wash and line dry quite a bit so no problem there. Is it a breathable fabric?

Cheers, Kamikat!