Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[dakotanorth]

; ( NO!! Not good.. Blast..

oh, and on the similar line to your topic above, take a gander at http://www.vintagesewing.info

Yeah, never fails- find something you like, they discontinue it!

On the link- funny I posted about that link roughly a week ago... only to find out YOU had mentioned it in January. Oops! A _truly_ great resource though- I'm now using Bluing when I wash whites.

 

[Snookie]

Actually, there is a formula that is used in the industry. I took a week long class in pattern drafting and grading for wholesale/retail distribution. The problem is that the formula gives you a standard graded pattern, not a pattern that fits you. There are useful bits of info, like each size equals 1/2in at the side seams, but 1/8 in at the armscye (armhole) ect, but it is only a guideline for making a pattern fit you. The best way to start grading a pattern is to get a ton of $1 per yard fabric, trace your pattern, add some to the seams and pin fit. A good thing to keep in mind is that for every 1/4" you add to your side seams equals 1" added to the total measurment.

I've got a couple textbooks on grading, which I bet you can buy on Amazon. I'll post the names if anyone wants. BUT...I totally agree with everything kamikat said about the patterns STILL not fitting, and doing mockups as the best way to get a personalized fit. I think you'll have to combine the two methods if you want to go up/down more than a couple sizes.

But yes, there is a method to the madness. You can see how grading works on any multi-sized pattern.

 

[BegintheBeguine]

The lastest issue of Burda just arrived in the mail. There are patrons for some nice classic cocktail dresses, including one from the 50s. http://www.burdamode.com/Magazines,1270777-1000019,enEN.html

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

Here's a grading-related question.
I don't have the skills to grade patterns yet.
Would be possible to buy vintage patterns one size smaller and just use the excess seam allowance without actually changing the pattern?
I always end of trimming off a lot from size 16 patterns (especially 40's ones seem roomier than 50's patterns) and I see so many cute patterns in size 14. And it would be less "harmful" to the fit of the garment to add a little across the bust, as opposed to shaving off some from a size that's too big, right?
Thanks for your expert knowledge, ladies

 

[Lady Day]

I guess you could do that, but it depends on how the garment is suposta fit. I find taking accurate bust, hit and waist measurements gives me a lot less of a fit hassle, especially if the pattern is in my size.

I guess you gotta watch HOW MANY seams are in the garment. If you have princess seams, and each allowance is 5/8" for a vintage pattern or 1/2" for a new one, you might end up with a larger garment anyway if you take out 1/4" for each seam. See what I mean?

Good luck either way

LD

 

[Snookie]

Here's a grading-related question.
I don't have the skills to grade patterns yet.
Would be possible to buy vintage patterns one size smaller and just use the excess seam allowance without actually changing the pattern?
I always end of trimming off a lot from size 16 patterns (especially 40's ones seem roomier than 50's patterns) and I see so many cute patterns in size 14. And it would be less "harmful" to the fit of the garment to add a little across the bust, as opposed to shaving off some from a size that's too big, right?
Thanks for your expert knowledge, ladies

Adding or subtracting a little from a pattern that's only 1 size off should be fine -- it doesn't get really hairy until you're jumping multiple sizes (although most people do find it easier to size down instead of sizing up, so you're opting for the harder route.). The main problem I see you running into is at the armhole. If you can, try to keep the armhole the same, and changing the pattern below that point?

Home sewing patterns are made with the expectation that you'll mess with the seam allowance. That's why modern patterns have 5/8" SA, instead of 1/2" or 1/4". They give you a little extra to play with.

LD's suggestion of measuring the pattern at the waist, bust, and hip is good. That way you'll know how much you need to change your pattern, and if it seems do-able. And make sure you start simple for your first one --no sense in giving yourself an extra headache!

 

[Lady Day]

Suggestions ladies

Its way too big. I basted it at the shoulders and that helped, but Im thinking of doing some permanent alterations to it. Id be taking out at least 4 inches on each side so I can get a nice loose fit. Mainly at the shoulders and sleeves.

Should I?
Im having second thought on it because it is a hand made knit. I dont know. I know its mine and I should enjoy it blah blah blah, but I dont want to ruin it.

I guess what Im asking is would you alter it that much?

LD

 

[true vintage]

i've never sew'd in my life, where do i start?

I plan on making "learning how to sew" & "getting better at it" a weekend thing, like when I'm not a student, nor a mom, nor an employee, nor a reader. As busy as I am-I want to learn how to sew! What would somebody anybody recommend I start out with? What's the cheapest route to buying the essentials-the must have items? I already have a readers digest sewing book which is extremely helpful! Any tips on getting the show on the road?

I've never sewn in my life, where do I start?

 

[crwritt]

I have the Reader's Digest book too! Mine is a 1976 edition. What a wealth of information. I have sewn for years, for myself and professionally, and I look things up in that book all the tiime.
As far as the "cheapest" way to accumulate sewing essentials, ask for gift certificates to your local sewing store, such as Jo Ann fabrics, for a holiday gift. There are some good catalog and online stores as well, such as Nancy's Notions and Clotilde.

Start with:

Shears
Small scissors

I wouldn't scrimp on the price of scissors or shears when you are ready to buy them. Buy a quality brand of 7"or 8" bent handle shears and they will last you a lifetime. Reserve them for cutting patterns and fabrics. You will also need a small sharp pair of embroidery scissors, for snipping thread.

Seam Ripper

The same rule would go for a seam ripper, I have bought cheap ones before and they are just not sharp.

Pin Cushion

A new kitchen sponge can do very well as a pin cushion, until you have completed your first hand sewing project (a pin cushion!)

Pins
Needles

Pins and needles are always a personal choice. I like the quilting pins with the yellow plastic heads more than the pins with small steel heads. I can see them better! You won't know what type of hand sewing needle you will like until you begin sewing, so buy a good quality assorted pack. I like an embroidery needle, since the eye is longer and easier to thread.

Colored pencils
A Ruler

I like to use colored pencils to mark seam lines and darts on the back of the fabric. You may already have some. You probably already have a ruler as well.

Good Quality Thread

Using quality thread can make a big difference in the success of your project, especially when hand sewing. Cheap thread will knot up and cause you
trouble.


And a basket or tote it will all fit into, so your sewing tools don't wander or get borrowed.

 

[Lady Day]

Take a beginners sewing class to have an actual person explain the parts of the machine and show you how to thread it, make a stitch, and change stitches on a machine, etc.

Might not be the cheapest, but the best route in my opinion. You can prolly get one class for about $30-40 for at least one hour (that will be all you need). Once you know that stuff, then on your own you will know more about what you are doing. Thats when books come in handy

LD

 

[Miss 1929]

An entire bolt of muslin!

You will save much angst, money, tears, and precious fabric if at first you make a muslin version of whatever you are sewing, before you cut your fabric!
Many times you will find the pattern needs to be adjusted to fit right, and if you do it in muslin, you will not have ruined a good piece of fabric that you may not be able to get more of.
Plus, then the finished muslin can be stored to use as a pattern again, as it is stronger than tissue paper.
You might also want some of the indelible and removable fabric markers, they are great for marking up the muslin (indelible) and also the real garment (removable).
A dressmakers dummy in really exactly your size is a wonderful thing - it is impossible to fit on your self, as twisting or raising an arm changes everything. If you make a simple princess-line form-fitting canvas garment from neck to mid-thigh, then you can put it on a standard dressmakers dummy, and it will be like fitting yourself! I dream of this...but have not gotten around to it, and I really need to.

 

[Snookie]

If you buy a sewing machine from a sewing store, they should offer you a lesson in how to use your machine for free (like what LD described). If you get a machine from Wal-Mart, a yardsale, or as a hand-me-down, you could still enroll in a class (but it would be cheaper if you have a friend or relative show you). But it's worth having a live person show you the mechanics.

I think the easiest garment to sew is an A-line skirt with a zipper and facing (no waistband). Don't start with a vintage pattern. Look for a pattern labeled Easy.

If you want to try a new technique, like applying seam binding or piping or even a zipper, practice on scraps first. Then when you make a mistake, you don't have to rip it out (and possibly damage your garment).

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

LD and Snookie, thanks for your help!
I see what you mean about the things that have to be taken into consideration. I'll try with a simple pattern without a centre front and centre back seam to see if it works by just adding a bit to the side seams. Or maybe it would be better to slit up the pattern in the middle and add the extra width to the centre? I guess I'll just have to experiment.

Lady Day, I know that sweater dilemma. I have an outrageously fluffy angora sweater that's too big on the shoulders. I'm thinking of sewing in the side seams and moving the shoulder seam up a bit, and then put the sleeves back in as puff sleeves so that the width fits, but I'm afraid of ruining it. I don't know if the puff sleeve trick would work on your sweater? Love the front design by the way!

 

[LizzieMaine]

You've already got the most important thing you need -- a determination to learn. Another good thing to have is patience -- you'll make mistakes, but so do the most experienced seamstresses. It's important not to get frustrated when that happens -- just let it be a learning experience and move forward.

The basics of sewing are not as intimidating as they might seem at first -- once you've learned the machine and the basic stitches and how to read a pattern, you've got the foundation skills that'll take you as far as you want to go!

 

[Miss Brill]

Any chance this could be stickied?

 

[Gingerella72]

Another newbie, would-be sewing person here, True Vintage! Thanks for starting this thread. I'm looking forward to reading all of the responses too.

The thing that intimidates me most about learning to sew is something I'm embarassed to admit - I don't know how to measure or read a ruler if it doesn't fall right on the inch or half inch mark I am mathematically challenged to the most extreme degree.

 

[Snookie]

Another newbie, would-be sewing person here, True Vintage! Thanks for starting this thread. I'm looking forward to reading all of the responses too.

The thing that intimidates me most about learning to sew is something I'm embarassed to admit - I don't know how to measure or read a ruler if it doesn't fall right on the inch or half inch mark I am mathematically challenged to the most extreme degree.

This is actually less of a problem than you might think -- I mostly use a ruler to mark buttonholes and for adjusting patterns, but you won't be doing that at the beginning anyway.

If you have to divide an amount in half, measure it with a tape and fold it to get the right amount. Same thing works for doubling. You'll find other tricks, but just know that it's not such a big deal.

 

[ASimpleLady]

I've got a SUPER old sewing machine that I don't know how to work. I'm going to post some pictures here when I get off work and see if someone can show me what I'm doing wrong. I get so frustrated that I break down in tears because I'm not able to figure it out.

What happens is that I start sewing and the bottom gets jammed so I'm not doing something right with the bobbin thread.

 

[KittyT]

I've got a SUPER old sewing machine that I don't know how to work. I'm going to post some pictures here when I get off work and see if someone can show me what I'm doing wrong. I get so frustrated that I break down in tears because I'm not able to figure it out.

What happens is that I start sewing and the bottom gets jammed so I'm not doing something right with the bobbin thread.

Your machine probably needs to be serviced. I would suggest doing a little research to see if any local shops can provide service for this machine.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

Housekeeping note

I have merged the 'never sewn before' thread with this, the main "Lets learn to sew" thread, so that its all in one place for people to review and learn from.