Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Rosie]

Thanks so much! After I freaked out last night, I ran through the net for some resources, took more than a few deep breaths and *really* looked at what was going on. (I can't possibly be this dumb, right? lol) Though no fabric is cut as of now, I have a strategy in mind and will attempt to do so in about an hour or two (gulp) after some tea, sunshine and fresh air. I'm really afraid of this pattern business.

Oh, and thanks for the measuring myself part. Lauren posted this too and it really has been a life saver. I sized up by one because of my current extra ample state and found out I didn't have to do that.

 

[Polka Dot]

Pattern Scaling

I have a access to a certain quantity of vintage patterns. The oldest of these all belonged to my very petite grandmother and are far too small for me. I believe they are mostly sized for a 32-34" bust. My question relates to how I could possibly use them. Could they be scaled to a bigger size by someone who is not a really experienced seamstress?

Would I be better off just selling them on ebay?

 

[Lauren]

As far as pattern sizing goes, I think it really depends on what you need to scale them up to. Personally when it gets above 6" I really have a difficult time. If the pattern needs all forms of piecing it makes it more difficult. Generally as a rule there are three cross areas lengthwise you enlarge- center front down from the neckline, the middle of the shoulder, and from the lower part of the armhole down (all to waist). Generally the one at the armhole gets enlarged the most. Then the crossgrain gets enlarged at the top of the shoulder from the armhole to neck, and across the lower part of from the sideseam to center front. These do not get enlarged as much- generally you can do it to your measurements of your front and back waist.

To enlarge if it is a basic pattern I do it the cheater way- I take the amount in inches I need to enlarge (usually by bust) and divide it by 4. This is the measure you will do to each piece if you have one front and one back. Then I split up that measure between the three places to add, giving the one nearest the sideseam the most meaure. First trace off the existing piece. Draw lines and crosslines using a clear ruler. Slice and spread to the amount needed by cutting along each line, one at a time, and adding another piece of paper with tape which you have added your amount you wish to add. Contine across the piece, then do the same with the crosslines. Add the same amounts to sleeves that you did all around the armholes, and add the same amount to skirt waists as you did bodice waists. Trim up your marks and make a muslin.

It's a pain in the butt to do, but it is possible with time and patience! The #1 rule is TRACE the pattern, and number 2 is MAKE a muslin.

Hope that helps

 

[Lady Day]

Ah, gotta love the cheater way

For me, and Im no expert by any means, it gets difficult when you have to factor in darts and such. I tend to, if the pattern is to be cut on the fold, add an extra inch at the fold that way, when I open it, and try for fit, if its too large, I can take it in without comprimising that much of the design.

I know totally ghetto, but it works as a quick and dirty size up.

LD

 

[Polka Dot]

Thanks for the advice, Lauren and LD. I might not have time to attempt such an amibtious project until Christmastime, but I will of course show you all if I end up with something wearable.

 

[Kim_B]

I'm having some trouble finding dresses that 1) I like, and 2) look good on me. I've searched eBay and I found one dress that looked cute and comfortable, but once I tried it on I didn't really like it (thankfully I didn't spend a fortune on it!) I've been trying to get an idea of what I like and find myself leaning toward the late 40's into the 50's. I just love that look...so I thought about making a dress, nothing too fancy, but something I can wear to work and the like. I don't know much about patterns, so I thought I'd pick something that looked like a couple basic pieces put together, like the dress below. I really like this style, but I guess I'm not entirely sure how to go about making it...can any one give me so pointers, or are there any easier patterns to follow to make a dress like this? Am I crazy for wanting to do this?

ETA: I'll add this shirt too...know of any patterns to make something similar?

 

[Rosie]

That shirt and dress have similar bodices. That shouldn't be too hard since it's like a kimono sleeve. Let me look around, I'll post again.

 

[Rosie]

Vintage simplicity 2848 is similar:

That of course may be hard to find but, I would get a simple blouse pattern and a full or circle skirt pattern then combine.

 

[Kim_B]

Thank you!

Oh, Rosie! Thank you so much for your help! I am going to start my search straight away!

Thanks again!!!

 

[Nashoba]

ALERT!!! ALERT!! SALE @ HANCOCK FABRICS!!!

Hey Y'all Vogue Patterns are on sale at Hancock today through the 28th. They're 75% off so if there's anything you've got your eye on might be time to snap it up!!!!

Nash

 

[RetroModelSari]

Eventhough the pattern-magazine from 1935 that I bought didn¬¥t have the pattern that I needed it has a tutorial for cute applications! Since I¬¥m sure you ladies wanna see them I post them here… No German needed as the pictures are explaining the how to very good!

 

[Rosie]

Pleats without bulk

I'm working on a pencil-like skirt and want to add some pleats in back just so that this doesn't look like every other pencil skirt I've ever made. I'm thinking of inverted pleats, how do I add these without adding bulk to the skirt? Should I cut out a square in the back of the skirt and add some pleated material there? Should I just add one long inverted pleat?

 

[BonnieJean]

Rosie, I have this 1933 dress pattern that has the type of pleats you are mentioning. It is basically a square cut out with an added pleated section. I haven't made this yet, but it appears to be pretty simple.

 

[Rosie]

Thanks Bonnie. That is what I'm thinking of, great!

 

[Lady Day]

Question

Now I sew, but Im bad with the names of finishes and techniques. And because of such, I dont feel confident. With that said I have a question...

What is the name of a finish (if it has one) where small buttons are used fromthe back on a garment as reinforcement for the larger top buttons that are to be shown? I finish a lot of garments this way (heavier ones wool etc) that have buttons.

Thanks pros,

LD

 

[Elaina]

Now I sew, but Im bad with the names of finishes and techniques. And because of such, I dont feel confident. With that said I have a question...

What is the name of a finish (if it has one) where small buttons are used fromthe back on a garment as reinforcement for the larger top buttons that are to be shown? I finish a lot of garments this way (heavier ones wool etc) that have buttons.

Thanks pros,

LD

You use what is called a "backing button" that in ready to wear are usually a clear 2 hole button that fits underneath the fashion button right? If so, that would be what it is called.

 

[Lady Day]

Thank you.

I get frustrated when I dont know the term for something. I like to express myself in words, and when I cant call a procedure by its proper name, I get all fizzled.

'preciate it.


LD

 

[Elaina]

No worries. I do stuff when I sew I'd have to look the term up to discuss it. Some of it (like sewing machine repair) is talked about so vague that if you follow me, it's not due to my technical speak savvy.

I had to work on my treadle the other day. Ran into a problem, so I called a friend of mine. Conversation went something akin to "Hey the long bar running through that decorative side thingie isn't moving." (Which should actually be "The needle bar isn't moving and removing the face plate shows it's jammed at the lower insertion point") Which wasn't the problem, but those are about the only terms I DO know (and I work on my old machines ALL the time. Fixed a few too )

Some sewing terms are so often not used now, that I'd be surprised aside from people that sew alot and learned prior to the 60's would know them anyway. Like couching (which means to add cord to a garment by stiching either in a contrasting tread to show or to match). I'm sure we've all seen it, or done it, but who calls it that? (I usually just say "cord added with a zig zag stitch"): and I had to look the term up for that, because I don't think I've discussed it calling it by that name.

 

[Rosie]

How to alter a sweater

I just got a super cute angora twin sweater set but, it's too big. Can I alter this the same way I would a dress or shirt? Will it look weird?

 

[Lady Day]

I take in a lot of my sweaters under the arm. ts the least intrusive place for a sewing stitch on a knitted garmet.

Ooo, sweater set...sounds supercute!

LD