Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lauren]

That is lovely! Love the color!
I hate doing hems on full skirts with curved hems. It's so tricky! I have found that doing a very narrow hem with bias tape like a facing is a lot easier than trying to get a regular hem to lay flat.
Ditto the hem marker. I love mine to pieces!

I have to ask... though it may be a silly question... how do you cut a circle skirt on the bias? Since it's a true circle isn't part of it on the bias anyway? It is so the center front and back lays on the bias?

 

[Drappa]

That dress is stunning and the colour combination works so well! Also love the shrug and your hair. You must have been the belle of the ball

 

[sheeplady]

Very nice! That looks like a slippery fabric too- so job well done is esp deserved!

If I ever get down on my sewing, I just go look at a store bought garment in my closet. Chances are, no matter what I've done, the store-bought version is much, much worse. Do you know how many skirts I have where the hems are wrinkle-ly when I try to iron them? Or the sewing isn't very straight? Also, I find it helpful to inspect my store-bought clothes for what seems to work- hem length, construction, etc. as well as what doesn't.

 

[BoPeep]

Very nice, Romamor4! The colors are great together! Is that a faux fur knit/crochet shrug? And peek your toe out a bit next time. Those look like great shoes!! lol Don't you love how we notice everything?

When I do gored skirts (four panels, 120" curved sweep), I usually roll a tiny quarter inch hem, but even at that, it puckers a bit. Also, I think letting it hang a few days so the bias settles into place is a good idea. I typically skip this step though if I'm using a tight cotton. And I just don't have the patience! I like to wear them hot off the machine!

 

[Romamor4]

Thank you, ladies! And yes, I felt like the absolute belle of the ball! It was so much fun! And I felt especially proud because of all the hard work I put into it, so thank you!

Very nice, Romamor4! The colors are great together! Is that a faux fur knit/crochet shrug? And peek your toe out a bit next time. Those look like great shoes!! lol Don't you love how we notice everything?

When I do gored skirts (four panels, 120" curved sweep), I usually roll a tiny quarter inch hem, but even at that, it puckers a bit. Also, I think letting it hang a few days so the bias settles into place is a good idea. I typically skip this step though if I'm using a tight cotton. And I just don't have the patience! I like to wear them hot off the machine!

BoPeep, I actually did a quarter inch seam but alas...I wore mine hot off the machine as well! I was really pushing it with getting this thing done in time for the ball!
That shrug was actually lent to me by a friend of mine that very day of the ball! She said it was hanging in her closet and thought it would look great with my dress...and it so suited the 1940's look! It is made of real fur. I really wish it was mine!

The shoes are a favorite of mine... Aris Allens. They have some of the best repro dance shoes I've ever seen. I've owned so many pairs and gone through them like water! Here's the ones that I have on:


2090-BK by Romamor4, on Flickr

I have to ask... though it may be a silly question... how do you cut a circle skirt on the bias? Since it's a true circle isn't part of it on the bias anyway? It is so the center front and back lays on the bias?

Lauren, I'm sorry, I didn't mean to say I did it on the bias, but of course due to the circle being on part of the bias, the hem was a little extra diffcult with the dupioni I was working with.

 

[Lauren]

It is a gorgeous dress and was worth all your work! Beautiful!
Cool- thanks for letting me know I was curious!
Love those shoes! Off to look for them right now...

 

[Romamor4]

www.dancestore.com for the shoes...

 

[BoPeep]

^^ Have two pair of Aris Allens myself. LOVE these new ones!

 

[jessesgirl08]

ok so i am pretty new to sewing and i have a few questions....how do i get an even hem on a full skirt and on what fabrics and in what circumstances do i need to use interfacing? and what are all of my interfacing options besides just fusible?
Thanks!

 

[TheSwingingBee]

ok so i am pretty new to sewing and i have a few questions....how do i get an even hem on a full skirt and on what fabrics and in what circumstances do i need to use interfacing? and what are all of my interfacing options besides just fusible?
Thanks!

I can answer the hem question! I use a sliding hem guide like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Nancy-Zieman-...QSUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301595072&sr=8-1.

You set it to the hem width you want, slide it out to that number, and then fold and iron as you go to get a nice even hem on anything.

 

[jessesgirl08]

QUOTE=TheSwingingBee;1210121]I can answer the hem question! I use a sliding hem guide like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Nancy-Zieman-...QSUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301595072&sr=8-1.

You set it to the hem width you want, slide it out to that number, and then fold and iron as you go to get a nice even hem on anything.[/QUOTE]

how simple! thanks for your help swinging bee! i feel so dumb:eusa_doh:[ there must be tons of products out there that i am missing out on, i think a good long afternoon spent in the fabric store (without kids n hubby) is in order, what else am i missing out on?

 

[Gracie Lee]

My favorite new toy is a hem *marker*... Super to easy to use when you're sewing alone, you just set it up, adjust it to the length you want, hang on the the ball, and *puff, puff, puff* as you turn around. Perfectly even hem in roughly 45 seconds!

 

[crwritt]

Jessegirl08, do you want your full skirt hem to hang with all the edges the same distance from the floor or are you having trouble
getting the width of the hem even all the way around?
The hem marker Gracie Lee mentioned is for marking the length evenly. The hem guide TheSwingingBee mentioned is for making the width of the hem even.
If it is a very full, circular skirt you may need to run a slight gathering stitch around the very edge of the hem before you press it up, to ease in the fullness.

Interfacing is used to stiffen the fabric in areas that need structure, usually collars, cuffs, belts, button plackets, and some necklines. When there is a facing on a neckline there is often interfacing. You can use washed and ironed cotton fabric for
interfacing if you don't like the fusible kind. There is also nonwoven interfacing that is not fusible. If you are using a synthetic fabric that will not shrink, be careful not to use cotton, it may shrink and leave you with a rumpled collar. Your pattern will usually tell when and where to use interfacing,
as far as what kind to use, there are many weights and types. You should match the weight of your fabric with the weight of your interfacing, and you can test it out by folding your fabric over some interfacing, to judge how stiff it will be.
I like to do a test sample with a scrap of my fabric.

 

[Romamor4]

My favorite new toy is a hem *marker*... Super to easy to use when you're sewing alone, you just set it up, adjust it to the length you want, hang on the the ball, and *puff, puff, puff* as you turn around. Perfectly even hem in roughly 45 seconds!

Oooh! I've always wondered how well these work!

 

[FraeuleinBerlin]

Ladies! What do you think about making a suit out of cotton? I have a fab vintage early 60s skirt suit pattern, and I'd LOVE to make it up in leopard print. I've found some leopard print that was 100% cotton, but would this hang right? I could line it, of course.

Alternatively, could any of you recommend a suitable leopard fabric for suiting?

Thank you!

Cherry Berlin

 

[Lady Day]

You cant go wrong with cotton! Crisp, cool and washable!

LD

 

[FraeuleinBerlin]

Fantastic!

 

[sheeplady]

Ladies! What do you think about making a suit out of cotton? I have a fab vintage early 60s skirt suit pattern, and I'd LOVE to make it up in leopard print. I've found some leopard print that was 100% cotton, but would this hang right? I could line it, of course.

Alternatively, could any of you recommend a suitable leopard fabric for suiting?

Thank you!

Cherry Berlin

I actually own one suit jacket out of cotton and it is wonderful, I wish I could find more ready-made things like it. I think it would look wonderful, and I am planning in a suit out of a cotton too (not leopard print).

The only thing I can reccommend (from my personal opinion), be sure if it has a lining, don't do the lining in polyester. The stuff doesn't breathe, and the benefit of your cotton is that it will be nice and warm/cool and breatheable. I think you'll love it.

 

[Gracie Lee]

Oooh! I've always wondered how well these work!

I've had nothing but success with mine! I really wish I hadn't waited so long to buy it. I sew solo all the time - even when my guy is around he wants nothing to do with needles unless I'm applying them in an effort to clothe him; I've tried a bunch of methods to get my hem even, and this is by far the fastest and easiest. Wait until notions are half off at JoAnns, or use the flier coupon

 

[Lady Day]

eBay has vintage hem markers on all the time. I got mine there because modern ones are what, $25-$30! Whatever! I sew solo as well, so having mine has been invaluable.
LD