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Sewing Lessons & FAQ

bunnyb.gal

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
sunny London
Could you take some fabric out of the hem, or hem it shorter, and use the excess to make underarm gussets? They're a bit fiddly to draft and insert on your own if you've never done it before, but a seamstress or tailor should be able to help out if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself. Just a thought!

Unfortunately there's no extra fabric on the hems, and if the frocks were any shorter my knees would be on show (shock, horror!), so I think that gussets would be a no-go. I had not thought of gussets, so thanks for that idea; it may come in handy when I get the courage to go through more of the unworn stuff in my closet!

I've decided to harvest a swing skirt out of the one dress as I think it will be the easiest and the nicest option for that one, and keep the top bit for a bolero-type thing in future. The other dress, which is kind of a shirt dress with more of a 50's fullness to it, has me completely stumped, though.
 

Lauren

Distinguished Service Award
Messages
5,060
Location
Sunny California
I've decided to harvest a swing skirt out of the one dress as I think it will be the easiest and the nicest option for that one, and keep the top bit for a bolero-type thing in future. The other dress, which is kind of a shirt dress with more of a 50's fullness to it, has me completely stumped, though.

It might be a bit of work, but you could remove the sleeves and either use the fabric to make strips to make ruffles for sleeves it there's a bit there, and if not you might be able to buy a contrast fabric to do that sort of thing and then add a bit of trim to the dress to make it match. Or maybe even just remove the sleeves completely and cut in the armhole a tad at the shoulder and slope down for a sleeveless summer dress and face it with bias binding.
 

BoPeep

Practically Family
Messages
637
Location
Pasturelands, Wisc
I'm unable to raise my arms in either comfortably without the whole kit and caboodle coming up.

Can anyone tell me what causes this exactly? I have a couple dresses that do this too. They're not impossible, but not too comfortable either. Is it too short in the bodice, or too small in the armhole? Sometimes it feels more like the sleeve is binding up and not the bodice. Just wondering so I can be on the lookout! :) Thanks!
 

sheeplady

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,479
Location
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia, USA
Can anyone tell me what causes this exactly? I have a couple dresses that do this too. They're not impossible, but not too comfortable either. Is it too short in the bodice, or too small in the armhole? Sometimes it feels more like the sleeve is binding up and not the bodice. Just wondering so I can be on the lookout! :) Thanks!

I think part of the problem is if the armhole is too low- there is too much armhole under the arm and it goes too far down towards the waist. If the armhole is higher (right up under your arm) this doesn't seem to happen. At least this is what I have noticed about suit jackets and blouses (I only wear a few dresses).
 

bunnyb.gal

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
sunny London
It might be a bit of work, but you could remove the sleeves and either use the fabric to make strips to make ruffles for sleeves it there's a bit there, and if not you might be able to buy a contrast fabric to do that sort of thing and then add a bit of trim to the dress to make it match. Or maybe even just remove the sleeves completely and cut in the armhole a tad at the shoulder and slope down for a sleeveless summer dress and face it with bias binding.

I believe the latter may be the solution for this pesky dress, for the other thing that annoys me about it is that it has 3/4 sleeves, which I can't bear to wear. Looking at Sheeplady's post, is there a way to perhaps raise the underarm bit of the armscye to get some ease in there (and then make up some full-length sleeves)? Cheers!
 

Sickofitcindy

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I think part of the problem is if the armhole is too low- there is too much armhole under the arm and it goes too far down towards the waist. If the armhole is higher (right up under your arm) this doesn't seem to happen. At least this is what I have noticed about suit jackets and blouses (I only wear a few dresses).

You're right Sheeplady. My draping told me that when you have a lower armhole, more fabric is taken out of the bodice. She said it with more eloquently but that's why a higher and tighter armhole is actually better though it would seem the opposite.
 

BoPeep

Practically Family
Messages
637
Location
Pasturelands, Wisc
Thanks, I guess that does make sense. The particular blouse that I'm thinking of does have a slightly lower armhole (and a too-tight short sleeve that binds up). I'll have to file this tidbit away. :)
 

nosferaturoams

Familiar Face
Messages
98
Location
United States
Hi I really wanna sew my own clothes since it's so expensive for me to buy repro/retro inspired clothes. I have no idea where to begin. What kind of sewing machine should I buy? Where can I get fabric? What are cheap 40's 50's patterns I could buy? Thnx in advanced :)
 

lolly_loisides

One Too Many
Messages
1,845
Location
The Blue Mountains, Australia
Sewing rage!

I didn't want to to start a new thread, but I thought you ladies might appreciate my story;

The zip went in my favourite pair of wide legs trousers, so I went about repairing them (and you know how tedious replacing a zip can be). After all the unpicking & resetting the zip, my sewing machine decided that it was going to be "difficult" (the thread broke, the needle fell out, threads snagged etc) after about 20 minutes of this I started to swear loudly at my machine (as you do) then I heard the neighbour in his backyard call out " I can hear you! Stop cursing" :eek:
 
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sheeplady

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,479
Location
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia, USA
loisides: Had that happen too, although I've never had a neighbor tell me not the swear. I think some objects in my home must think that their names are curse words. lol

Hi I really wanna sew my own clothes since it's so expensive for me to buy repro/retro inspired clothes. I have no idea where to begin. What kind of sewing machine should I buy? Where can I get fabric? What are cheap 40's 50's patterns I could buy? Thnx in advanced :)

You can get fabric at a store called Joann's Fabric and Crafts. They are all over the US, pretty much. For patterns, most of the major lines (Vogue, Simplicity, McCalls, and Butterick) have retro pattern lines. Joann's has a mailing flyer you can sign up for, and they often have pattern days when they will offer McCall, Simplicity, and Butterick patterns for a dollar or two apiece (up to ten patterns) and Vogue for $4. (These patterns are normally $20-45 apiece, so wait for a pattern sale.) They also have coupons in the flyers you can use on fabrics, zippers, notions, etc.

In my state (New York) there is an organization called BOCES- each county has a program (some counties share). They are run by the state, and offer trade training (electrical, cosmotology, etc.) to both high school students and the general public. They also offer other classes to the public- such as painting, cooking, dancing, and sewing. I'd recommend trying to find such a course (in my state they are $80 for a few weeks lessons). They will teach you the very basics and probably save you a lot of heartache. In your state they probably aren't called BOCES, but I would assume you'd have something similar.
 

Gracie Lee

A-List Customer
Messages
386
Location
Philadelphia
OT - Sheeplady: had to laugh at your post... my step-dad is a teacher for BOCES, has been for years, but for their developmentally disabled program. He works with higher functioning DD high school students to help them "transition" out of a scholastic environment and into jobs and the workforce. Truly, it's a great program, something I think NY does better than any other state I've lived in.
 

sheeplady

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,479
Location
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia, USA
OT - Sheeplady: had to laugh at your post... my step-dad is a teacher for BOCES, has been for years, but for their developmentally disabled program. He works with higher functioning DD high school students to help them "transition" out of a scholastic environment and into jobs and the workforce. Truly, it's a great program, something I think NY does better than any other state I've lived in.

BOCES is great! I haven't taken many of their classes, but I've been pondering taking the electrical courses (house wiring). I've also taken dancing with them. And while everybody hums "It's a small world afterall"- both of my parents worked with the developmentally disabled when they were younger, but not through BOCES.

I'd totally recommend any of their classes based upon my experience. I image their basic sewing one has to be good.
 

Amie

One of the Regulars
Messages
195
Location
NY
Quick Question

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Quick question: does the belt on this pattern look like it's right at the belly button? Help. Generally, where do most 40s waistlines occur?
 

Lady Day

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
9,087
Location
Crummy town, USA
Your natural waist line is about an inch or so above your belly button, your most narrow part of your torso. Where you bend at the waist is your natural waist.

These drawings are totally not the ideal to get proportions from. These gals are 7 feet tall.

LD
 

nosferaturoams

Familiar Face
Messages
98
Location
United States
Well no luck so far on finding classes through the internet, so I'm going to look around by foot soon :p
There's a sale right now at Fry's electronics. The newspaper is advertising a brother's sewing machine for 59.99 instead of the usual 79.99. Do you ladies think its a good deal?
 

lareine

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
New Zealand
The price of a sewing machine is no indication of how good it is! And sometimes the cheap beginner's machines are the best route to frustration and a hatred of sewing, because they behave so badly. You can find lots of sewing machine information and reviews on sites like PatternReview:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingMachine/

My favourite sewing machine, which will cope with anything I throw at it, is a Singer 201K from 1951. It only sews straight, no zig-zags, but it does so beautifully. It never causes me grief and I can service it myself because it's a simple mechanical machine apart from the motor. It cost me next to nothing on an auction site.
 
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MarieAnne

Practically Family
Messages
555
Location
Ontario
I agree with Lareine. The older machines are fantastic for beginners. Easy to use and service, and quite reliable. I've used a 217 (from the late 60's?) for several years until I recieved a Husqvarna Viking Emerald(?) last Christmas. I'd be lying if I said I didn't miss the old Singer.
 

Amie

One of the Regulars
Messages
195
Location
NY
Your natural waist line is about an inch or so above your belly button, your most narrow part of your torso. Where you bend at the waist is your natural waist.

These drawings are totally not the ideal to get proportions from. These gals are 7 feet tall.

LD
LOL. Thanks.
 

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