Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[kymeratale]

Hand tack the button holes shut. Don't worry about it being perfect, since you'll pull those stitches out later, but try to get them to match up and not overlap. Once the button holes are shut, proceed as normal with your machine buttonholer around the entire buttonhole, just like you would be sewing a new one in that spot. After you are finished, clip like you would any normal, new button hole!

Well, I hadn't thought of that option, which makes ever so much more sense. Should I pick out the old stitches first, or just go over them with the new stitches?

 

[Adorn]

Well, I hadn't thought of that option, which makes ever so much more sense. Should I pick out the old stitches first, or just go over them with the new stitches?

I usually just sew right over them, and double sew the new bits so they have the right thickness...it's not the neatest looking buttonhole out there, but I figure if someone is inspecting my buttonholes that closely, I have other things to worry about with them

 

[kymeratale]

I usually just sew right over them, and double sew the new bits so they have the right thickness...it's not the neatest looking buttonhole out there, but I figure if someone is inspecting my buttonholes that closely, I have other things to worry about with them

Thanks Adorn, I am much more likely to actually do it now. I feel like this method I could do without screwing things up too badly. Sometimes when I am getting really anal about getting something just right, I remind myself that I am the only person who is going to see or even notice it and I really shouldn't stress about it.

BTW, welcome to the Lounge!

 

[sheeplady]

Thanks Adorn and Lady Day!

I will check out the options you both gave me. I don't get much time to sew (and I haven't made anything complicated since I was 17) so I think it is worth the investment to have something nice. It looks like silk or rayon might be the best choices. I will check out my local store.

I stopped sewing because it got so expensive- I could find cheaper things in the stores. I'm turning towards making things because I am unhappy with what my local stores carry. What they have isn't fitted, and now my local Pennies and other mid-line stores have stopped carrying my size, which means I now have to go to the high-end stores (Lord & Taylor, Macy's) for anything decent. At that point, I can sew something for cheaper, and get what I want.

 

[HepKitty]

I hate lining!

Does anyone have any tricks to deal with suit lining? It never cuts quite right and it's even worse to sew! It's all over the place except for where it needs to be. Never mind the snagging...

And please don't say "don't ever use suit lining" unless you also recommend something better

Thank you

 

[Sickofitcindy]

HepKitty,

I find it's easier to cut lining with a rotary cutter than with scissors. It doesn't slip around as much. It's a pain but you could hand baste before you sew. Sometimes I find it easier to use a walking foot to sew the slippery lining.

 

[BoPeep]

Lots of pins and hand sewing!

 

[Lady Day]

The walking foot is an awesome suggestion. Are you using a silk needle as well?

I always cut my linings with a bit more ease than the coat so its actually slightly larger than the outer fabric. That way I dont have to worry about exact-ness. I also put a 1 1/2" pleat down the center back of a coat to account for motion. One of my sewing books said to do that :biggrin:

LD

 

[HepKitty]

HepKitty,

I find it's easier to cut lining with a rotary cutter than with scissors. It doesn't slip around as much. It's a pain but you could hand baste before you sew. Sometimes I find it easier to use a walking foot to sew the slippery lining.

Time to invest in a walking foot... now that I'm almost done with the lining! lol

The walking foot is an awesome suggestion. Are you using a silk needle as well?

I always cut my linings with a bit more ease than the coat so its actually slightly larger than the outer fabric. That way I dont have to worry about exact-ness. I also put a 1 1/2" pleat down the center back of a coat to account for motion. One of my sewing books said to do that :biggrin:

LD

Excellent suggestions ladies, thank you!

 

[Drappa]

Can't remember the exact link for the blog entry, but I came across this blog a while back and it has tons of useful tips and some about linings: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/

 

[I Adore Film Noir]

Can't remember the exact link for the blog entry, but I came across this blog a while back and it has tons of useful tips and some about linings: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/

Thank you for this, I've bookmarked it.

 

[sheeplady]

Can't remember the exact link for the blog entry, but I came across this blog a while back and it has tons of useful tips and some about linings: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/

This is helpful to me too! Thanks!

 

[HepKitty]

Thank you for this, I've bookmarked it.

Ditto!

 

[kymeratale]

Wool fabric, really warm, heavy wool fabric

So, my most urgent wardrobe need right now is warm pants. I went off to my local Fabricland (equivalent to Joanne's for you American folks) and they had exactly 2 bolts of fabric that were 100% wool and almost nothing else with any wool content. :eeek: I bought what was left on both 100% bolts. It is lovely (and will make a pencil skirt and pair of pants), but only fall weight when what I am after is heavier tweed sort of stuff. Men's suits sort of stuff. I am constantly cold all winter and I wear the one heavy pair of wool pants I have (which are lined) with long johns under them, just to give you the idea. There is one ritzy fabric store that will have woolens, but it is the sort of place where the prices start at $40/m for the cheap stuff. I really don't think I am going to be able to find what I want locally without paying at least $100 for fabric for a pair of pants. I am a little scared to go into said ritzy store as I know their stuff is gorgeous, just very $$$.

I was quite surprised at the lack of wool fabric in a place that gets as cold in the winter as it does here. I mean, really cold. :eeek:

I did some poking about online, but the places I looked didn't have anything close to the weight I want. I really would prefer 100% wool, but some blend wouldn't be the end of the world. None of this acrylic with a titch of wool though.

So, first off, what does the fabric world call the heavier type stuff I am looking for? I don't know the lingo and I suspect that is hampering my search. I keep thinking tweed, but I know that is a specific fabric type and I don't necessarily want just actual tweed. Do I search by oz. weight?

Second, any suggestions for online stores (Canadian shipping friendly my fellow Canadian FL members?) that carry such a thing?

Third, how much should I expect to pay? Perhaps the ritzy store in town is indicative of the prices for wool fabrics, I just don't know.

Fourth, I am thinking of heading to the thrift store and see about buying some men's pants or suits in the right kind of fabric and cutting them down. Will it work if I just measure my pattern pieces against the men's to see if there is enough fabric in the second hand pants, take them apart and cut out my pieces from there?

Just had a boo at the Harris Tweed shop online. It is actually not as bad as I thought it would be, but still quite expensive.

*sigh* if only I wasn't built for life in a place where the temperature doesn't drop below 25C/80F.

ETA Okay, I finally found some better info online and I think I have a better handle on wool fabric types and weights. I also seem to see that many of the online fabric stores don't really give enough info in the descriptions to tell if that is what I am looking for. Seems to be light weight, suiting, or medium weight in the descriptions. Still not really sure just what suiting means. I guess that will have to do.

 

[I Adore Film Noir]

So, my most urgent wardrobe need right now is warm pants. I went off to my local Fabricland (equivalent to Joanne's for you American folks) and they had exactly 2 bolts of fabric that were 100% wool and almost nothing else with any wool content. :eeek: I bought what was left on both 100% bolts. It is lovely (and will make a pencil skirt and pair of pants), but only fall weight when what I am after is heavier tweed sort of stuff. Men's suits sort of stuff. I am constantly cold all winter and I wear the one heavy pair of wool pants I have (which are lined) with long johns under them, just to give you the idea. There is one ritzy fabric store that will have woolens, but it is the sort of place where the prices start at $40/m for the cheap stuff. I really don't think I am going to be able to find what I want locally without paying at least $100 for fabric for a pair of pants. I am a little scared to go into said ritzy store as I know their stuff is gorgeous, just very $$$.

I was quite surprised at the lack of wool fabric in a place that gets as cold in the winter as it does here. I mean, really cold. :eeek:

I did some poking about online, but the places I looked didn't have anything close to the weight I want. I really would prefer 100% wool, but some blend wouldn't be the end of the world. None of this acrylic with a titch of wool though.

So, first off, what does the fabric world call the heavier type stuff I am looking for? I don't know the lingo and I suspect that is hampering my search. I keep thinking tweed, but I know that is a specific fabric type and I don't necessarily want just actual tweed. Do I search by oz. weight?

Second, any suggestions for online stores (Canadian shipping friendly my fellow Canadian FL members?) that carry such a thing?

Third, how much should I expect to pay? Perhaps the ritzy store in town is indicative of the prices for wool fabrics, I just don't know.

Fourth, I am thinking of heading to the thrift store and see about buying some men's pants or suits in the right kind of fabric and cutting them down. Will it work if I just measure my pattern pieces against the men's to see if there is enough fabric in the second hand pants, take them apart and cut out my pieces from there?

Just had a boo at the Harris Tweed shop online. It is actually not as bad as I thought it would be, but still quite expensive.

*sigh* if only I wasn't built for life in a place where the temperature doesn't drop below 25C/80F.

ETA Okay, I finally found some better info online and I think I have a better handle on wool fabric types and weights. I also seem to see that many of the online fabric stores don't really give enough info in the descriptions to tell if that is what I am looking for. Seems to be light weight, suiting, or medium weight in the descriptions. Still not really sure just what suiting means. I guess that will have to do.

I think that's a wonderful idea. I read on another forum that since patterns are so expensive, when you have a well loved item that's worn out, take it apart and use it as your pattern.
Buying men's pants or a suit will give you exactly the fabric you want for very little money. Please post pictures when your project is complete. Good luck!

 

[Lady Day]

Making a suit from a man's suit is *so* war time 1940s!
Ive wanted to do that for the longest, but haven't found a thrift store suit that is of a quality I like.

Wool is weighted by ounces. Here is some boring math of it. Just like skeins of yarn, the larger the ounce the heavier the wool (please correct me if Im wrong, ladies). There are some threads on suit fabric weight in the men's suit area. They have good threads over there on this stuff.

LD

 

[kymeratale]

Making a suit from a man's suit is *so* war time 1940s!
Ive wanted to do that for the longest, but haven't found a thrift store suit that is of a quality I like.
Wool is weighted by ounces. Here is some boring math of it. Just like skeins of yarn, the larger the ounce the heavier the wool (please correct me if Im wrong, ladies). There are some threads on suit fabric weight in the men's suit area. They have good threads over there on this stuff.

LD

Just seems like a good solution to me, since the weight of fabric I want will be pricey and if I luck out I can find that barely worn Harris tweed suit second hand for cheap.

 

[Lady Day]

I have a cardigan with boring buttons and some vintage mother of pearl buttons that will be just perfect. Problem is the vintage buttons are a bit bigger than the ones on the sweater. So, I want to enlarge the buttonholes, I'm just not sure what the best way to do it would be. Should I do it by hand, picking out the bar tacks and adding some length to each end or could I try to do it on my machine? It is a cotton knit, quite fine. I'm not sure about using my machine since the buttonholes are already cut and I worry that might make it hard to keep it sitting right to stitch the extension. My hand sewing skills are not great, so if I do it by hand, it will likely not be very tidy at all. I figure the machine stitches would be neater.

Also, do I need to add to each end if it is a little less than 1/2cm (1/4 inch) or can I cheat and just add to one end?

Opinions? Anyone done this by one or the other method?

lol
I literally just did this.
http://newvintagelady.blogspot.com/2010/12/sweater-transformation-conclusion-of.html
I backed the button placket with some cotton so it wouldn't stretch, then just sewed over the original button holes extending them to the desired length.
For a fine cotton like you describe, you might want to use a very thin needle, perhaps a size above silk weight. It's not that hard. Im totally sure you can do it!

LD

 

[Amie]

What is sleeve stiffening? I just recently bought a 40s pattern and it says to put sleeve stiffening if using light weight fabric. There is even a diagram, but no other information. Is this something that was commonly used back in the day?

 

[Lady Day]

Sleeve stiffening is pretty much any stiffening fabric. It's special like interfacings and can also come in different weights. Pretty much any fabric store with a good notions section should carry some. You could also use tulle (sp) or even buckram but that might be a tad much

LD