Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Geesie]

It's not so much fitting the bust that is hard, but fitting the shoulders and neck. If the pattern is sized to fit the whole upper chest (from the under arm up), you can easily take away and add in the other specific areas. There is also the possiblity that she might need more or less in those areas depending on the dress style. A 50's style pleated full skirt isn't fitted through the hip and might fit as is, where as a bias cut 30s evening gown might need more than the size 14. Also be aware that ladies' sizes have changed over the years. Your wife MIGHT be a 10 in vintage sizing, but I doubt it. I have sewn for a girlfriend who was a modern RTW size 2 and she fit vintage size 12 pattern perfectly.

Right, I was listing sizing based on the pattern-maker size charts not RTW. She's somewhere around 2-4 RTW.
I think I'll start with 50s style full skirts.
Thanks!

 

[kamikat]

Right, I was listing sizing based on the pattern-maker size charts not RTW. She's somewhere around 2-4 RTW.
I think I'll start with 50s style full skirts.
Thanks!

Ok, if she's a vintage size 10, you might run into more problems. Any pattern drafted for a 30in bust or smaller is drafted for the junior, or teenage, figure. This means there will be less of a difference between bust, waist and hip. The best way to go about learning to fit her is to measure the pattern pieces to determine the finished measurement of the garments. Also keep in mind that vintage pattern sizing changed depending on the decade. In the 1930's, a vintage 16 was a 34in bust. Some time in the 50's (based on patterns in my own collection) a 16 became a 36in bust. I think it changed again in the 70's or 80s to the current 16= 38in bust.

 

[Geesie]

Ok, if she's a vintage size 10, you might run into more problems. Any pattern drafted for a 30in bust or smaller is drafted for the junior, or teenage, figure. This means there will be less of a difference between bust, waist and hip. The best way to go about learning to fit her is to measure the pattern pieces to determine the finished measurement of the garments. Also keep in mind that vintage pattern sizing changed depending on the decade. In the 1930's, a vintage 16 was a 34in bust. Some time in the 50's (based on patterns in my own collection) a 16 became a 36in bust. I think it changed again in the 70's or 80s to the current 16= 38in bust.

Well, to be specific, I'm going off the Vogue size chart, and since she's around 32-24-38, that corresponds to sizes 12, 8, and 14... assuming she sent me the right bust measurement and not her band size...

 

[kamikat]

Ok, that chart is for modern Vogue patterns. Are you using an actual vintage pattern or one of the Vogue Vintage re-prints? That makes a HUGE difference. The Vogue re-prints fit closer to modern sizes than actual vintage patterns.

 

[Geesie]

Vogue reprint.

 

[Lady Day]

Also keep in mind that vintage pattern sizing changed depending on the decade....Some time in the 50's (based on patterns in my own collection) a 16 became a 36in bust. I think it changed again in the 70's or 80s to the current 16= 38in bust.

Im shocked to find that is appears vanity sizing is about half a decade earlier than the 50s. I just got a catalog from '44/'45, and it starts to list size 20 as 40" bust, then go onto the dreaded half sizing instead of just listing bust sizes. Im all, "IN 1944!?"

LD

 

[kamikat]

Im shocked to find that is appears vanity sizing is about half a decade earlier than the 50s. I just got a catalog from '44/'45, and it starts to list size 20 as 40" bust, then go onto the dreaded half sizing instead of just listing bust sizes. Im all, "IN 1944!?"

LD

Is it a clothing catalog or a pattern catalog? In my pattern collection, it looks like the vanity sizing wasn't standard. I have different brands from the same year that list 38 as an 18 and some that list 38 as a 20.

 

[Lady Day]

It was RTW from my Sears '44 catalog. THat was the earliest (pattern or RTW) that I had ever seen the size changes like that.

LD

 

[MarieAnne]

Ok, if she's a vintage size 10, you might run into more problems. Any pattern drafted for a 30in bust or smaller is drafted for the junior, or teenage, figure. This means there will be less of a difference between bust, waist and hip. The best way to go about learning to fit her is to measure the pattern pieces to determine the finished measurement of the garments. Also keep in mind that vintage pattern sizing changed depending on the decade. In the 1930's, a vintage 16 was a 34in bust. Some time in the 50's (based on patterns in my own collection) a 16 became a 36in bust. I think it changed again in the 70's or 80s to the current 16= 38in bust.

I also found that I had to lower the waist in junior patterns.

 

[SayCici]

Ladies! I'm curious as to if there's some sort of "rules" with stripes, like if thin stripes should always be vertical or something. I have this fabric:

(Sorry for the picture, I took it on my webcam as it's night here).

For this pattern:

I was all ready to cut this out but I don't know which way to place the pattern pieces! I'm guessing vertical for the bodice and sleeves and horizontal for the yoke/neckline piece?

 

[kamikat]

If you have enough, I'd cut the neck band on the bias. Bias stripes are always cute.

 

[Lady Day]

Oooh, bias neckline, supercute
I think the adage is that vertical lines are slimming. Id do the whole blouse in vertical lines (sleeves included) then bias cut the neck like Kami said, and perhaps a cuff on the sleeves in the same treatment?

LD

 

[kamikat]

Has anyone tried making shorts from the EvaDress trouser pattern? The fit is so nice through the hip and seat but I wonder if the leg would be too baggy for shorts.

 

[Lauren]

Cici, Since you're slim I think you could wear the stripe any which way. I love playing with stripes! Two of my favorite things to do are to cut patch pockets on the bias, or cut a skirt on the bias with a matching "V" in front. I've done that with blouses with a center front seam, too. But I'm with the others- do the bias binding! And maybe the bows with the stripes going lengthwise. That will be SO CUTE! I love the pattern!

Kamikat, I say go for it A lot of 40s shorts weren't very fitted anyways!

 

[SayCici]

Thanks for the suggestions so much everyone! How do I know if I'm cutting something on the bias? :x

One more question! This pattern is described as being '40s, but for some reason it doesn't seem as.. swooshy. Do you agree with the dating? Early or middle part of the decade?

 

[Lady Day]

The bias of fabric is a 45 degree angle of your grain line/stripes. Bias cuts for details look awesome but they can waste a lot of fabric, so make sure you have enough.

That pattern looks late 40s to me. Like 47 ish.

LD

 

[Kate O Potato]

Uh oh. Last night I found a 2mm x 2mm hole in my lovely Swirl dress. When I ripped under the arm a few weeks back, I found that trying to sew the dress up made the edges fray even more, so am reluctant to simply try and stitch the hole, for fear of making it fray even more and become larger...

What do you gals recommend? Will wonder web or some other iron-on fix sort it? Or will that not stop the fraying? Help please!

 

[crwritt]

Uh oh. Last night I found a 2mm x 2mm hole in my lovely Swirl dress. When I ripped under the arm a few weeks back, I found that trying to sew the dress up made the edges fray even more, so am reluctant to simply try and stitch the hole, for fear of making it fray even more and become larger...

What do you gals recommend? Will wonder web or some other iron-on fix sort it? Or will that not stop the fraying? Help please!

You can try some fray check
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/productdetail.jsp?CATID=cat2864&PRODID=prd2992
I'd use just a tiny bit, try it first on the edge of a concealed area. If you use too much it will make the fabric stiff.

 

[Kate O Potato]

Thank you! I will definitely try that. I spent the day on a very stony beach yesterday and have found three other tiny holes in my Swirl, which has upset me a bit. I'll try to get hold of some fray check and let you know how it goes.

 

[Lady Day]

What do you gals recommend?

Personally, I dont like adhesive stuff to mend garments. Especially vintage ones. Have you thought about darning the hole, or using a patch of fabric?

LD